Spoilerless Truck Lid
Thread Starter
Shelby GT500 Member
Joined: January 9, 2012
Posts: 2,687
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Spoilerless Truck Lid
Hey guys, I desperately want a spoilerless trunk. There's a couple ways to do this from what I've seen
1) buy little plugs for the holes. It's a cheap fix but also a cheap look. My cars black so it would blend in ok, but not good.
2) swap decklids with someone. How does this work with the key hole? Is there an easy way to switch the locking/opening mechanism? Don't want my car to die and need to get in the trunk for some reason
3) have the holes filled on my current one and have it repainted. Definitely the best option, but the most expensive as well.
Let me know what you guys know.
The car is an 05-09 by the way. I posted it in the general section because I figured others can gain from it, and I want it to have the maximum attention possible.
1) buy little plugs for the holes. It's a cheap fix but also a cheap look. My cars black so it would blend in ok, but not good.
2) swap decklids with someone. How does this work with the key hole? Is there an easy way to switch the locking/opening mechanism? Don't want my car to die and need to get in the trunk for some reason
3) have the holes filled on my current one and have it repainted. Definitely the best option, but the most expensive as well.
Let me know what you guys know.
The car is an 05-09 by the way. I posted it in the general section because I figured others can gain from it, and I want it to have the maximum attention possible.
V6 Member
Joined: February 24, 2014
Posts: 101
Likes: 2
From: wi
I've seen very few spoiler delete Mustangs. After a web search it seems that the '07 GT had a factory spoiler delete option. You might check with Ford or search on-line. I think the nipple plugs would deteriorate depending on climate, and probably wouldn't hold paint. Good Luck.
Last edited by rocket7888; Jun 17, 2014 at 09:32 AM.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
You probably should stop bumping. You've got your answers: Fill the holes and paint, find a trunk that didn't have holes and/or paint, or keep/swap the spoiler, and/or paint the swapped spoiler, or just plug the holes with something... and/or paint.
There are no other methods. Bumping isn't doing anything, and you might incur the wrath of the Mod Bear, resulting in a locked thread.
There are no other methods. Bumping isn't doing anything, and you might incur the wrath of the Mod Bear, resulting in a locked thread.
Thread Starter
Shelby GT500 Member
Joined: January 9, 2012
Posts: 2,687
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
You probably should stop bumping. You've got your answers: Fill the holes and paint, find a trunk that didn't have holes and/or paint, or keep/swap the spoiler, and/or paint the swapped spoiler, or just plug the holes with something... and/or paint.
There are no other methods. Bumping isn't doing anything, and you might incur the wrath of the Mod Bear, resulting in a locked thread.
There are no other methods. Bumping isn't doing anything, and you might incur the wrath of the Mod Bear, resulting in a locked thread.
I haven't found any of the information I've been asking about, and I don't want the thread to get lost in the mix. I don't think I've been bumping the thread an unreasonable amount... It's only been twice in a few days.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
Ah. Well, ask that, instead of 'bump'. And yeah, there's rules about bumpage per week, just tryin' to keep ya from bein' troubled is all.
Now then. I can help!
I think... I hope so anyway. 
Swapping the trunk lids is simple. Both cars:
1) remove the cover for center light and trunk locking mechanism.
2) Disconnect all electrical from the trunk lid so that the harness is now unattached to the trunk lid itself, and hangin' out by the right side hinge.
3) Remove the lock cylinder. There may be other things(tm) that need removal to get that particular part out. THAT is all you need to keep with your vehicle, for it matches your door lock and ignition lock. Put it somewhere in the trunk or elsewhere you won't lose it. It is advisable to also remove the latch as well, and keep the latch/lock as a set, as well as having the latch off for installation purposes.
4) The trunk lid can now be removed from the hinges.
5) Installation is the reverse of removal, with these caveats: Remove (or don't put back on yet) the latch. Keep the latch/lock off the car so the trunk will not lock on you. When you put the trunk lid on the hinges, you will want to test fit, adjust, test fit some more, repeat repeat repeat until you get it all lined up. Once you're satisfied the alignment's good, you can then attach the latch/lock combo and do some final testing with the key and the remote, testing that both methods work and the trunk operates as normal.
6) You'll want to figure out how to get the medallion off and remounted if you're going GT to V6 or such, unless you don't mind the medallion not matching your car's pedigree. I personally wouldn't mind a pony instead of the GT, and I have a medallion around here... somewhere... But this entails getting the double sided tape cut from the back of the medallion (fishing line I hear is the thing, then goo gone to get the remainder off), either prying it carefully with a non-marring device or pushing it out from the inside on those two posts, however you do that... and then reapply the swapped medallion with more double sided tape. Be sure to clean the area with alcohol to ensure good adhesion.
7) Now is a good time to replace the center stop light bulb before you put the cover back on. Oh, and if the cover's being a pill, take out the two clips that hold it on, and bend the teeth inwards to get it to catch the plastic better. Those clips *suck*. I hate them. I'd rather use a screw instead for a cover like that.. bulbs burn out, ya know, Ford...
You might also need to attempt to move the clip a little side to side to it can maybe grip onto 'virgin' plastic, instead of the ruts that eventually get worn in to the cover's tabs. It's really not a great design, that cover/clip system.
That's it. If you wish to see how the trunk lock cylinder is taken out, you can go right here and have a look at the shop manual for your '06:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil...k Cylinder.pdf
Although you might want to maybe, possibly, also move your latch (which has the electrical actuator in it) with the lock cylinder, 'cause you don't know the condition of the donor's. Here's that info:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil... Lid Latch.pdf
Now, as mentioned above, you don't know the conditions of the donor's working bits. You already get to keep your electrical harness. But your stop lamp, latch, and all that from the donor might have issues, so if you're a little concerned, everything in the center bit could be considered 'keeping'. It's a little bit extra work, and might make you look paranoid to the donor if it's a full swap, but your stuff works now. Does his/hers?
Just a lil' food for thought. Heh.
Good luck to ya, and hope that helps ya out!
Now then. I can help!
I think... I hope so anyway. Swapping the trunk lids is simple. Both cars:
1) remove the cover for center light and trunk locking mechanism.
2) Disconnect all electrical from the trunk lid so that the harness is now unattached to the trunk lid itself, and hangin' out by the right side hinge.
3) Remove the lock cylinder. There may be other things(tm) that need removal to get that particular part out. THAT is all you need to keep with your vehicle, for it matches your door lock and ignition lock. Put it somewhere in the trunk or elsewhere you won't lose it. It is advisable to also remove the latch as well, and keep the latch/lock as a set, as well as having the latch off for installation purposes.
4) The trunk lid can now be removed from the hinges.
5) Installation is the reverse of removal, with these caveats: Remove (or don't put back on yet) the latch. Keep the latch/lock off the car so the trunk will not lock on you. When you put the trunk lid on the hinges, you will want to test fit, adjust, test fit some more, repeat repeat repeat until you get it all lined up. Once you're satisfied the alignment's good, you can then attach the latch/lock combo and do some final testing with the key and the remote, testing that both methods work and the trunk operates as normal.
6) You'll want to figure out how to get the medallion off and remounted if you're going GT to V6 or such, unless you don't mind the medallion not matching your car's pedigree. I personally wouldn't mind a pony instead of the GT, and I have a medallion around here... somewhere... But this entails getting the double sided tape cut from the back of the medallion (fishing line I hear is the thing, then goo gone to get the remainder off), either prying it carefully with a non-marring device or pushing it out from the inside on those two posts, however you do that... and then reapply the swapped medallion with more double sided tape. Be sure to clean the area with alcohol to ensure good adhesion.
7) Now is a good time to replace the center stop light bulb before you put the cover back on. Oh, and if the cover's being a pill, take out the two clips that hold it on, and bend the teeth inwards to get it to catch the plastic better. Those clips *suck*. I hate them. I'd rather use a screw instead for a cover like that.. bulbs burn out, ya know, Ford...
You might also need to attempt to move the clip a little side to side to it can maybe grip onto 'virgin' plastic, instead of the ruts that eventually get worn in to the cover's tabs. It's really not a great design, that cover/clip system.That's it. If you wish to see how the trunk lock cylinder is taken out, you can go right here and have a look at the shop manual for your '06:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil...k Cylinder.pdf
Although you might want to maybe, possibly, also move your latch (which has the electrical actuator in it) with the lock cylinder, 'cause you don't know the condition of the donor's. Here's that info:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil... Lid Latch.pdf
Now, as mentioned above, you don't know the conditions of the donor's working bits. You already get to keep your electrical harness. But your stop lamp, latch, and all that from the donor might have issues, so if you're a little concerned, everything in the center bit could be considered 'keeping'. It's a little bit extra work, and might make you look paranoid to the donor if it's a full swap, but your stuff works now. Does his/hers?
Just a lil' food for thought. Heh.
Good luck to ya, and hope that helps ya out!
Last edited by houtex; Jun 22, 2014 at 10:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Shelby GT500 Member
Joined: January 9, 2012
Posts: 2,687
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Ah. Well, ask that, instead of 'bump'. And yeah, there's rules about bumpage per week, just tryin' to keep ya from bein' troubled is all.
Now then. I can help! I think... I hope so anyway.
Swapping the trunk lids is simple. Both cars:
1) remove the cover for center light and trunk locking mechanism.
2) Disconnect all electrical from the trunk lid so that the harness is now unattached to the trunk lid itself, and hangin' out by the right side hinge.
3) Remove the lock cylinder. There may be other things(tm) that need removal to get that particular part out. THAT is all you need to keep with your vehicle, for it matches your door lock and ignition lock. Put it somewhere in the trunk or elsewhere you won't lose it. It is advisable to also remove the latch as well, and keep the latch/lock as a set, as well as having the latch off for installation purposes.
4) The trunk lid can now be removed from the hinges.
5) Installation is the reverse of removal, with these caveats: Remove (or don't put back on yet) the latch. Keep the latch/lock off the car so the trunk will not lock on you. When you put the trunk lid on the hinges, you will want to test fit, adjust, test fit some more, repeat repeat repeat until you get it all lined up. Once you're satisfied the alignment's good, you can then attach the latch/lock combo and do some final testing with the key and the remote, testing that both methods work and the trunk operates as normal.
6) You'll want to figure out how to get the medallion off and remounted if you're going GT to V6 or such, unless you don't mind the medallion not matching your car's pedigree. I personally wouldn't mind a pony instead of the GT, and I have a medallion around here... somewhere... But this entails getting the double sided tape cut from the back of the medallion (fishing line I hear is the thing, then goo gone to get the remainder off), either prying it carefully with a non-marring device or pushing it out from the inside on those two posts, however you do that... and then reapply the swapped medallion with more double sided tape. Be sure to clean the area with alcohol to ensure good adhesion.
7) Now is a good time to replace the center stop light bulb before you put the cover back on. Oh, and if the cover's being a pill, take out the two clips that hold it on, and bend the teeth inwards to get it to catch the plastic better. Those clips *suck*. I hate them. I'd rather use a screw instead for a cover like that.. bulbs burn out, ya know, Ford... You might also need to attempt to move the clip a little side to side to it can maybe grip onto 'virgin' plastic, instead of the ruts that eventually get worn in to the cover's tabs. It's really not a great design, that cover/clip system.
That's it. If you wish to see how the trunk lock cylinder is taken out, you can go right here and have a look at the shop manual for your '06:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil...k Cylinder.pdf
Although you might want to maybe, possibly, also move your latch (which has the electrical actuator in it) with the lock cylinder, 'cause you don't know the condition of the donor's. Here's that info:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil... Lid Latch.pdf
Now, as mentioned above, you don't know the conditions of the donor's working bits. You already get to keep your electrical harness. But your stop lamp, latch, and all that from the donor might have issues, so if you're a little concerned, everything in the center bit could be considered 'keeping'. It's a little bit extra work, and might make you look paranoid to the donor if it's a full swap, but your stuff works now. Does his/hers?
Just a lil' food for thought. Heh.
Good luck to ya, and hope that helps ya out!
Now then. I can help!
I think... I hope so anyway. Swapping the trunk lids is simple. Both cars:
1) remove the cover for center light and trunk locking mechanism.
2) Disconnect all electrical from the trunk lid so that the harness is now unattached to the trunk lid itself, and hangin' out by the right side hinge.
3) Remove the lock cylinder. There may be other things(tm) that need removal to get that particular part out. THAT is all you need to keep with your vehicle, for it matches your door lock and ignition lock. Put it somewhere in the trunk or elsewhere you won't lose it. It is advisable to also remove the latch as well, and keep the latch/lock as a set, as well as having the latch off for installation purposes.
4) The trunk lid can now be removed from the hinges.
5) Installation is the reverse of removal, with these caveats: Remove (or don't put back on yet) the latch. Keep the latch/lock off the car so the trunk will not lock on you. When you put the trunk lid on the hinges, you will want to test fit, adjust, test fit some more, repeat repeat repeat until you get it all lined up. Once you're satisfied the alignment's good, you can then attach the latch/lock combo and do some final testing with the key and the remote, testing that both methods work and the trunk operates as normal.
6) You'll want to figure out how to get the medallion off and remounted if you're going GT to V6 or such, unless you don't mind the medallion not matching your car's pedigree. I personally wouldn't mind a pony instead of the GT, and I have a medallion around here... somewhere... But this entails getting the double sided tape cut from the back of the medallion (fishing line I hear is the thing, then goo gone to get the remainder off), either prying it carefully with a non-marring device or pushing it out from the inside on those two posts, however you do that... and then reapply the swapped medallion with more double sided tape. Be sure to clean the area with alcohol to ensure good adhesion.
7) Now is a good time to replace the center stop light bulb before you put the cover back on. Oh, and if the cover's being a pill, take out the two clips that hold it on, and bend the teeth inwards to get it to catch the plastic better. Those clips *suck*. I hate them. I'd rather use a screw instead for a cover like that.. bulbs burn out, ya know, Ford...
You might also need to attempt to move the clip a little side to side to it can maybe grip onto 'virgin' plastic, instead of the ruts that eventually get worn in to the cover's tabs. It's really not a great design, that cover/clip system.That's it. If you wish to see how the trunk lock cylinder is taken out, you can go right here and have a look at the shop manual for your '06:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil...k Cylinder.pdf
Although you might want to maybe, possibly, also move your latch (which has the electrical actuator in it) with the lock cylinder, 'cause you don't know the condition of the donor's. Here's that info:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=466&viewfil... Lid Latch.pdf
Now, as mentioned above, you don't know the conditions of the donor's working bits. You already get to keep your electrical harness. But your stop lamp, latch, and all that from the donor might have issues, so if you're a little concerned, everything in the center bit could be considered 'keeping'. It's a little bit extra work, and might make you look paranoid to the donor if it's a full swap, but your stuff works now. Does his/hers?
Just a lil' food for thought. Heh.
Good luck to ya, and hope that helps ya out!
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