I started the '10-'12 version.

 

Roof and stripe is done by plasti dip

 

I like it. But it's leaking light. It needs more coverage on the outside.

 

That's the old version. And it doesn't leak light. Mine are vinyl. I started the design using plasti dip.

My new version goes all the way to the edge of the light, I just don't have any pics of it.

 

Nice, looks good, except the wing.

 

Decided to remove my front license plate and plastidip the bottom part of my front bumper. Turned out pretty well, but I think I might retry it next weekend.

 

Looks good

 

I don't remember if it's been mentioned, but bug/tar remover will take plasti-dip off. Just a heads up...i recently found that out on accident.

 

I've been reading this thread and from what i can tell that plastic dip paint is basically the same as black t shirt paint, meaning it sounds a lot like the paint I used when air brushing t shirts, a lot of artist will use the t shirt paint to do car tags . the t shirt paint won't last long as an enamel or urethane paint. the artist basically scuffs the tag metal with a scotch pad for adhesion, then paint the tag and use a clear coat to make it last! but from experience the paint isn't as durable as the enamels. also t shirt paint is a plastic water base paint, and if the metal isn't prepped properly the paint will peel.

 

Actually I think the advantage of plastidip is that you don't have to 'prep' the metal you're spraying it on. Dipyourcar.com sells a 'prepping' solution that seems to be nothing more than a good cleaner that removes dirt, wax and anything that might keep the dip from adhering to the car. Overall the trick to plastidip seems to be the method in which it is being applied. A thin coat to start and then work your way up to a heavy final coat.

 

I am getting ready to re-spray my hood as well.



It looks ok from a distance but I didn't keep the sprayer at an even level while spraying and ended up with texture. I guess it just takes some practice.