GRAYPNY

I know we have had a great debate in the past about lowering the car and what else might be needed to correct problems after the drop.

I would like to hear from those of you that have lowered your cars with the Eibach Pro Kit springs and tell me what if anything you had to do?

1. Camber plates (whose)
2. Adj Panhard Bar (whose)

Thanks to all that respond. My car should be here any day and the springs are sitting in the garage ready to be installed. Just need more info on the best way to do it and who is offering the best parts for the front and the rear. :scratch:

MTAS

<--Pay no attention to Frank

I'll add my $.02 in here, for anyone who might not see my post about installing Eibach Pro's today. Steeda makes an adjustable panhard bar, but I'm not sure if it's adjustable while it's on the car. The BMR I have is, which made correcting the rear offset after installing the springs very easy. Camber plates for the front? Not sure yet, but my tires do tilt inward at the top. No vibration or anything unusual yet, but we'll see.

adrenalin

After lowering, as most of you know, my car alignment was way off. I need to get the camber bolts installed from FORD to fix the problem. Just like you Dave, it was obvious that they tilt inward at the top. You will not have any vibration but you will have uneven tire wear, and very fast tire wear at that. I have not installed an adjustable panhard rod yet for the rear but it is very obvious that the rear has shifted over to the left by close to 1/2".

yikesaz

After installation of Pro-Kit springs, front camber on my GT was still within specs (barely), and rear axle centering was too close to worry about. Suggest you check rear axle BEFORE you install the springs. After installation, the axle will move less than 1/8" to the left. You should have toe adjustment checked.
Good Luck.

Original Sin

Rich, everything above is correct and I'll add my own stuff. After months of reading everyone's opinions on lowering, panhard bars, LCA's, etc. and then talking to some performance people (I'm blessed with a couple of experts near where I live), I've decided to lower and it's now a question of Eibach or Steeda.

A poured over all of the really old springs/panhard bar posts, found one from a Steeda tech who stated that almost all of our cars, from the factory, are out just a bit in the back end. Mine is (about 1/8th to 1/4" to the left) and most others I've seen are too. When you lower, it goes out even further; thus the need for an adjustable panhard bar to bring it back to centre.

Steeda Canada is located about 40 minutes from home so that might help out with the decision on who to go with. If there's problems, it's nice to have a place to go to for a fix or return rather than the post office. I've ordered a Steeda panhard bar and MTAS is right, you have to adjust, then bolt on. If not right, unbolt, adjust again, then bolt. Not as convenient as the BMR bar but once it's adjusted I don't plan on making any other modifications. So I'm likely leaning to the Steeda springs, to keep the undercar mods in the same family.

Once lowered and adjustable panhard installed, time for the alignment which will put everything true. Quite a few people are putting on LCA's. Steeda says that they're a nice touch but only if you're having problems with wheel hop after the lowering operation. They said "90 %" won't need them. I think MTAS has them and they look pretty but as to absolutely necessary, I'm not sure. Then again, they're cheap and easy to install, especially if the suspension is already apart for the lowering operation. H.e.l.l., I think I've just talked myself into a pair.

Good luck, Mark.

MTAS

John, re-centering the rear of your car (with the BMR at least) would take about 20 minutes from start to finish (remove stock bar, install new one, align, tighten jam nuts). My neighbor has 18x9 chrome bullitts on his 05 with 275's on them, and the driver's side tire sticks out about 1/2" to 5/8" when compared to the passenger side.

Mark, I know Steeda make some quality stuff, but how would one re-center the rear of the car with a bar that's not adjustable while it's on the car? Based on my experience yesterday, you'd have to get the bar to the right length, then have someone push on the passenger side of the car to get it to move over...just thinking out loud But I do see your point of wanting to keep the same brand of parts under there. And I had mad wheel hop before I lowered the car, and the LCA's defnitely got rid of it. Maybe it's subjective, not sure, but based on my experience, they worked Good luck with your decisions and keep us posted!

GRAYPNY

What choices are there for camber plates beside the Steeda ones? I don't care if they are billet or not iust makes them more expensive imo.

Original Sin

Dave - you're right, no such luck with hooking up the Steeda and adjusting afterwards. It'll be a hit or miss thing, unbolting and adjusting until it's right. But what the heck, the more time I spend on tinkering with these things, the less time I have to order more stuff. It's addictive (and $$$$$) you'll no doubt agree!

GRAYPNY

OK I took the plunge and ordered the Steeda camber plates and the BMR adjustable panhard bar. Hopefully after everything is installed including a Steeda strut tower brace I will have the handling that I am looking for. Thanks for everyones input.