kevinb120

Just use halogen for the brights in that setup. OEM's use it because the start-up time for a set of hids is not as fast as a halogen for flash to pass. Mechanical tilt/shield units of course solve that problem for single-element setups. Plus, who wants 4 balasts stuffed back in there?

gmichaelj1

Why not get a couple of headlight shells to put in place of the fogs, and get some low beam lights (for the shells), then you’d have quad lows and keep the fog light look?

kkoch

I am going to be completely honest here, I have NO idea what you just said.

buffguy

The battery on the positive side has a slot where you can connect the wire from the relay but on the negative side there is none to plug on to? Can someone help me please. Where is a good place to place the ballast? If you can show me some Pics that would be helpful. Everywhere in the car seems to be hot, I don't know where I can place the ballast. TIA

buffguy

Also there are these 3 wire with pins on them that are different color, 2 are positive and 1 is negative. Where do they go? Are they suppost to be plugged into the stock harness or something? Stupid seller didn't give me any install manual.

kevinb120

Go back through the thread, I have complete instructions with many things listed multiple times. The colors for the hi/low setup on the right headlight are on this post

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...9&postcount=97

The balasts are grounded independently. Use the factory ground(there are several grounds on that bolt) on the radiator support on the passenger side, and the abs block support bolt on the driver side of the radiator bracket.

nevermind, found it:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...9&postcount=70
and one more
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...5&postcount=49

Read them 49/70/97

buffguy

Thanks Kevin , do you have any pictures of where to place the ballast?

kevinb120

No, its pretty much anywhere there is room(you will see the frame rails from below). Just be careful to make sure the extentions will still reach, when you are underneath the car you can not tell where the headlights are exactly. Connect the leads up top and fiddle the balasts downward, fart around with them a bit from underneath, and you will see decent spots to stick 'em and be sure the wires will still make it. I just put strips of standard 3m trim double sided tape(grey tape, orange strips) on the bracket and kept it all together.

buffguy

Did you tape the ballast directly to the car or the ballast in the bracket to the car?

buffguy

Can you also tell which color from the factory harness is which, because I got a different kit from the german ppl, not VVME. THanks again

kevinb120

No I just stuck the tape to the little frames. If the german kit has a ground it should be obviously black or white(although the VVME set was not). You can test the other two wires on the factory harness for high/low with a simple tester and the headlight switch on. I just farted around with all three wires and nothing shorted or anything anyway. If the ground is obvious, you have a 50/50 chance to hook up the other two wires, Shield will retract for high-beam mode if its not the flip up kind. Also, if it has the shield, it should be facing towards the top in the housing when installed.

buffguy

I have no idea what the shield looks like, but on top of the light there is this thin long white plastic like piece that streches from that back to the front of the bulb. Maybe that could be the shield. With the light bulb locked in, the white plastic is facing at northwest and not directly on top of the bulb. When the high beam is activated, it seems like the whole light bulb retracts in. Also I could find a good area to place the ballast on the passenger side. So mount in front of the passenger shock tower.

kevinb120

Thats a ceramic anode. That should face down in the housing, and if it is hi/low, it will flip upward with the hi beams. Most of them have a bulb socket adapter, so you can still rotate the bulb housing itself even though the unit is firmly in the socket. It comes in and goes up in hi-beam mode, so point the anodes downward. Its hard to stare at it and see what its doing. Make sure the bulb is perfectly clean and don't touch it. If it seems a little loose in the housing, double up the gaskets from from stock halogen bulbs.

Here ya go:

Ceramic anode down(no those arent paint chips on the corner, some strange glare):


Rotate this part of the unit to get it right:


If you have the VVME set with the switch box for the hi-low, I mounted it here with ds tape



I can't take any photos from underneath because of the air dam

buffguy

Thanks kevin. By any chance do you have pics of where you mounted the ballast? Oh yea, from your pictures, you harness doesn't have the plastic part that covers the tip of the light bulb. Did you removed it or something?

kevinb120

07 and up no longer have it

buffguy

What was the point of having that plastic piece at the tip of the light bulb?

randy_tho

A reflector?

buffguy

For some stupid reason I kept thinking h11 were for the gt fogs. I bought a h11 kit from VVME and now I realized that the fogs require h10 bulbs. Do you think the h11 would fit in the gt fogs? Thanks.

buffguy

For some reason on Sylvania's web site, they state that the gt fogs are h11 . http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...RG-Results.htm

2006 FORD Mustang

Fog/Driving light
9145
9145ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H11-55W

surf808

Hey. I'm new to this forums and was reading this post. I am looking for some HID headlights and was wondering if the high beams are actually better than the stock ones. What I mean is that does the bulb moving around really make it look like a high beam?