I've got a 2008 GT automatic, bone stock. What is everyone's experience with heat extractor hoods? I want something that won't be a lot of extra weight, and will do the best job of venting the heat out of the engine bay. I've heard that fiberglass hoods are heavy, however I'm seeing about 50 lbs for a Cervini's hood and 35 lbs for a TruFiber fiberglass hood. The Trufiber A45 carbon fiber is about 25 lbs. Is that 25 lbs that big of a difference? How much does a stock hood with the fake scoop weigh? I like the look of a carbon fiber hood and I'll spend the money if it will be a better solution as far as fit and durability.

Thanks in advance, all info is greatly appreciated.

 

Do you have a problem with heat buildup under the hood now? If yes I am wondering why; headers maybe?

Do you want a street oriented hood; where the car might be out in the rain; or a track oriented hood and we aren't worried about rain or snow?

I am asking because there are some track-oriented hoods that have a lot of venting and really extract a significant amount of heat, but I'm not sure if that is what you want.

I doubt any of the street-oriented hoods actually extract much heat.but I guess some are probably better than others.

hoping my reply might get your thread moving!

 

The car will end up in the rain, so I'll need some provision for that, although I do live in Dallas TX where it doesn't rain often, but we do get occasional heavy storms. From what I've read, the placement of the vents is key, as there are dead-air spots at the front and rear of the hood from the car pushing the air in front of it. Apparently the GT-500 style vents work the best for a street vehicle.

My car is a bone-stock daily driver and doesn't have any problems due to heat, it's more of a personal preference. It's really hot down here in the summer and I'm doing it more for comfort and personal preference.

 

I found a hood for a low price locally with a hole cut out for the CDC shaker system. I'm wondering if I can put an open scoop on top if it, with the opening towards the back, to prevent water from getting in if I drive in the rain, but still allowing heat to escape.

 

I think that would probably work, not sure if you will like the way it looks . . . I'm pretty sure the rear of the hood is a low pressure area which means it would effectively suck air out but not positive

 

Sounds like a good excuse to install the shaker system.

 

I love how the old Trans Am looks with the backward shaker scoop... I think with the right scoop it would look ok. I'm curious to try it now.

 

It would be!

 

oops, I want to correct my earlier post -- the area where the hood meets the base of the windshield is a high pressure area; meaning that air would be pushed in to that rearward facing scoop, not sucked out of it. This is why "cowl induction" works, even though it seems counter-intuitive to have air flowing "backwards" from the front of the windshield into a cowl or scoop at the rear of the hood.

The front edge of the hood is a low pressure area and that's why the GT500 hood vents are located there. This allows the air to flow through the radiator and out through the hood; and that is probably the best location for functional heat vents.

I always thought the fender vents were pretty cool too (pun intended) because they are on the side and won't let rain in; but I am not sure how effective they are. If the headers are shedding a lot of heat the fender vents might help.