PipeLine Intercooled V6 8psi results
2/27/06 | 07:16 AM
#81
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: October 4, 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
I am sorry, I did not read through the whole thread, If there was any questions in there please repost or PM me with them.
Just to clarify, This post was by no means a comparison post of turbochargers vs. superchargers, it is an age old debate that will continue on as long as both exists, and often times a waste of breathe of folks on both sides of the fence.
Please keep on topic as it becomes very difficult to keep any valid information and concerns on the surface with all the off topic discussion.
Thanks
Just to clarify, This post was by no means a comparison post of turbochargers vs. superchargers, it is an age old debate that will continue on as long as both exists, and often times a waste of breathe of folks on both sides of the fence.
Please keep on topic as it becomes very difficult to keep any valid information and concerns on the surface with all the off topic discussion.
Thanks
2/27/06 | 08:12 AM
#83
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: October 4, 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TJ06 @ February 25, 2006, 11:50 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Mike I have some questions.
1. What is the exact release date your turbo will be ready to ship?
2. Will the turbo on the above ship date be ready with a tune for a 2006 Mustang 4.0?
3. If you could e-mail me the installation instruction per pdf file when you can.
4. How many hours about would you recommend it would take if a speed shop were to install the turbo so we have an ideal what to expect?
5. Will stock plugs and gap work fine or do you recommend any changes?
6. Is there any chance you could post a picture of the turbo installed on your Mustang 4.0?
7. What type warranty what does it cover and how long?
8. I see you have a single 3” exhaust system and a dual exhaust setup available, by any chance did you dyno (at what psi) both and if any what was the difference?
Yes I agree with Frazm on the electronic boost controller..............Thanks
[/b][/quote]
1. We expect to have them on the shelf by the end of March
2. We will have 06 tunes available as well.
3. The install instruction are the one of the few things holding up the actual release.
4. Installation can be done in about 8-10 hours, some shops may take less.
5. We do reccomend a plug change, to a copper version of the stock plug, and as with any power adder the gap will need closed up.
6. I will try to get you a pic of the installed system by the end of the day today.
7. Obviously we will warranty it from manufacturer defects and gladly replace or repair any concerns.
8. There is little to no difference in performance from the dual 2.5 to the single 3.0, in fact the above dyno pulls were done with the single 3.0
As far as the electronic boost controller goes, the system will work with any electronic controller, it would be a matter of preference as to which one you choose.
I do NOT believe that we will offer any type adjustable boost controllers any time soon, we may accessorize at a later date, But for now I like to rely on the mechanical repeatablity of a simple spring replacement.
Folks also have questions in regards to the use of alchohol injection as well as the intercooler sprayers, those will help in netting more power to the system, but I have no plans to offer them as part or an option to our system. That is something that we would leave up to the end customer.
Mike I have some questions.
1. What is the exact release date your turbo will be ready to ship?
2. Will the turbo on the above ship date be ready with a tune for a 2006 Mustang 4.0?
3. If you could e-mail me the installation instruction per pdf file when you can.
4. How many hours about would you recommend it would take if a speed shop were to install the turbo so we have an ideal what to expect?
5. Will stock plugs and gap work fine or do you recommend any changes?
6. Is there any chance you could post a picture of the turbo installed on your Mustang 4.0?
7. What type warranty what does it cover and how long?
8. I see you have a single 3” exhaust system and a dual exhaust setup available, by any chance did you dyno (at what psi) both and if any what was the difference?
Yes I agree with Frazm on the electronic boost controller..............Thanks
[/b][/quote]
1. We expect to have them on the shelf by the end of March
2. We will have 06 tunes available as well.
3. The install instruction are the one of the few things holding up the actual release.
4. Installation can be done in about 8-10 hours, some shops may take less.
5. We do reccomend a plug change, to a copper version of the stock plug, and as with any power adder the gap will need closed up.
6. I will try to get you a pic of the installed system by the end of the day today.
7. Obviously we will warranty it from manufacturer defects and gladly replace or repair any concerns.
8. There is little to no difference in performance from the dual 2.5 to the single 3.0, in fact the above dyno pulls were done with the single 3.0
As far as the electronic boost controller goes, the system will work with any electronic controller, it would be a matter of preference as to which one you choose.
I do NOT believe that we will offer any type adjustable boost controllers any time soon, we may accessorize at a later date, But for now I like to rely on the mechanical repeatablity of a simple spring replacement.
Folks also have questions in regards to the use of alchohol injection as well as the intercooler sprayers, those will help in netting more power to the system, but I have no plans to offer them as part or an option to our system. That is something that we would leave up to the end customer.
2/27/06 | 11:30 AM
#86
Banned
Joined: September 19, 2005
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 0
Thanks for your email Mike, and your support! It means alot coming from you. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] But I to would love to see some pics of the setup on the car...
I was also wondering if people who bought your kit would be able to somehow get the piping chromed.. Looking at the .pdf for the kit, there are alot of pipes.. I think it would be awsome if the piping were either polished aluminum or chromed stainless steel.. I'm not sure of what the high temps would do for the chromed stainless steel.. Would there be a problem with chroming all the piping? Also, how much more in cost do you think a polished or chrome kit would add to the cost of the standard kit?
I have seen polished Turbo's all over.. Is this something you may do later after the initial product release? Thanks! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
I was also wondering if people who bought your kit would be able to somehow get the piping chromed.. Looking at the .pdf for the kit, there are alot of pipes.. I think it would be awsome if the piping were either polished aluminum or chromed stainless steel.. I'm not sure of what the high temps would do for the chromed stainless steel.. Would there be a problem with chroming all the piping? Also, how much more in cost do you think a polished or chrome kit would add to the cost of the standard kit?
I have seen polished Turbo's all over.. Is this something you may do later after the initial product release? Thanks! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
2/27/06 | 01:28 PM
#87
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 26, 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Mike thanks for the response I getting closer to my final decision to pull the trigger and its pretty obvious IMO what that should be.
But I have a few more question’s / need advice with your turbo if you don’t mind.
1. I know the 7.5 is ok but I am like 90% sure I am going to a GT 8.8/3.55 IMO just do not want to go with the 7.5 with my 5 spd. So with that in mind I plan on going right to slick’s or would you think drag’s radial’s would be more than enough running your turbo @8 or 9 psi for the best ET?
2. Mike I plan on installing your LCA’s, poss. shocks’ S-loop, etc. What RPM would you recommend coming out of the gate at with slick’s or drag radials?
(Just like to have reference point per your experience with this turbo in my head per above question when planning things out right now)
3. Would you think I have to run a scatter shield for the oem clutch/flywheel setup?
4. I do not know a lot about you or your shop, can customers have your turbo installed by you at your shop?
Looking forward to the picture or pictures did I say picture’s as in plural the more the merrier you can’t post enough for me or other people I am sure. I also look forward to seeing you’re other dyno graphs too!
Thanks
But I have a few more question’s / need advice with your turbo if you don’t mind.
1. I know the 7.5 is ok but I am like 90% sure I am going to a GT 8.8/3.55 IMO just do not want to go with the 7.5 with my 5 spd. So with that in mind I plan on going right to slick’s or would you think drag’s radial’s would be more than enough running your turbo @8 or 9 psi for the best ET?
2. Mike I plan on installing your LCA’s, poss. shocks’ S-loop, etc. What RPM would you recommend coming out of the gate at with slick’s or drag radials?
(Just like to have reference point per your experience with this turbo in my head per above question when planning things out right now)
3. Would you think I have to run a scatter shield for the oem clutch/flywheel setup?
4. I do not know a lot about you or your shop, can customers have your turbo installed by you at your shop?
Looking forward to the picture or pictures did I say picture’s as in plural the more the merrier you can’t post enough for me or other people I am sure. I also look forward to seeing you’re other dyno graphs too!
Thanks
2/27/06 | 01:35 PM
#89
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: April 29, 2005
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 5
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SPARTAN VI @ February 27, 2006, 3:35 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
If you guys offered some financing options, I'd be all over it! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
This thing is going to hurt my credit card. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]
If you guys offered some financing options, I'd be all over it! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
This thing is going to hurt my credit card. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]
2/27/06 | 02:59 PM
#91
Cobra Member
Joined: July 28, 2005
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TJ06 @ February 27, 2006, 3:31 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Mike thanks for the response I getting closer to my final decision to pull the trigger and its pretty obvious IMO what that should be.
But I have a few more question’s / need advice with your turbo if you don’t mind.
1. I know the 7.5 is ok but I am like 90% sure I am going to a GT 8.8/3.55 IMO just do not want to go with the 7.5 with my 5 spd. So with that in mind I plan on going right to slick’s or would you think drag’s radial’s would be more than enough running your turbo @8 or 9 psi for the best ET?
2. Mike I plan on installing your LCA’s, poss. shocks’ S-loop, etc. What RPM would you recommend coming out of the gate at with slick’s or drag radials?
(Just like to have reference point per your experience with this turbo in my head per above question when planning things out right now)
3. Would you think I have to run a scatter shield for the clutch?
4. I do not know a lot about you or your shop, can customers have your turbo installed by you at your shop?
Looking forward to the picture or pictures did I say picture’s as in plural the more the merrier you can’t post enough for me or other people I am sure. I also look forward to seeing you’re other dyno graphs too!
Thanks
[/b][/quote]
Looks like if you go into the 11's is when you have to wrap the tranny...
RUNNING 11.99 to 11.50
Clutch – Clutch in cars running 11.99 quicker must meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.4 specs.
Flywheel shield – All cars using a clutch and running quicker than 11.99 or faster than
135mph must be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4inch minimum thickness
steel plate. In lieu of shield, a blanket meeting SFI 4.1 spec, completely surrounding the
bellhousing, is permitted
Flywheel – Stock-type cast iron flywheels and/or pressure plats are prohibited in any
car running 11.99 or quicker. Units that meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4 specs are
mandatory in all cars running 11.99 or quicker.
Mike thanks for the response I getting closer to my final decision to pull the trigger and its pretty obvious IMO what that should be.
But I have a few more question’s / need advice with your turbo if you don’t mind.
1. I know the 7.5 is ok but I am like 90% sure I am going to a GT 8.8/3.55 IMO just do not want to go with the 7.5 with my 5 spd. So with that in mind I plan on going right to slick’s or would you think drag’s radial’s would be more than enough running your turbo @8 or 9 psi for the best ET?
2. Mike I plan on installing your LCA’s, poss. shocks’ S-loop, etc. What RPM would you recommend coming out of the gate at with slick’s or drag radials?
(Just like to have reference point per your experience with this turbo in my head per above question when planning things out right now)
3. Would you think I have to run a scatter shield for the clutch?
4. I do not know a lot about you or your shop, can customers have your turbo installed by you at your shop?
Looking forward to the picture or pictures did I say picture’s as in plural the more the merrier you can’t post enough for me or other people I am sure. I also look forward to seeing you’re other dyno graphs too!
Thanks
[/b][/quote]
Looks like if you go into the 11's is when you have to wrap the tranny...
RUNNING 11.99 to 11.50
Clutch – Clutch in cars running 11.99 quicker must meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.4 specs.
Flywheel shield – All cars using a clutch and running quicker than 11.99 or faster than
135mph must be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4inch minimum thickness
steel plate. In lieu of shield, a blanket meeting SFI 4.1 spec, completely surrounding the
bellhousing, is permitted
Flywheel – Stock-type cast iron flywheels and/or pressure plats are prohibited in any
car running 11.99 or quicker. Units that meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4 specs are
mandatory in all cars running 11.99 or quicker.
2/27/06 | 03:18 PM
#92
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 26, 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scrming @ February 27, 2006, 4:02 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Looks like if you go into the 11's is when you have to wrap the tranny...
RUNNING 11.99 to 11.50
Clutch – Clutch in cars running 11.99 quicker must meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.4 specs.
Flywheel shield – All cars using a clutch and running quicker than 11.99 or faster than
135mph must be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4inch minimum thickness
steel plate. In lieu of shield, a blanket meeting SFI 4.1 spec, completely surrounding the
bellhousing, is permitted
Flywheel – Stock-type cast iron flywheels and/or pressure plats are prohibited in any
car running 11.99 or quicker. Units that meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4 specs are
mandatory in all cars running 11.99 or quicker.
[/b][/quote]
Thanks Scrming for that info, but I was wondering if Mike would still recommend a scatter shield regardless of the ET because I think I will probably becoming out of the gates between 3,000-3,500 RPM's with his turbo with slicks on a stock oem setup (flywheel/clutch) so want to see what he thinks.
T
Looks like if you go into the 11's is when you have to wrap the tranny...
RUNNING 11.99 to 11.50
Clutch – Clutch in cars running 11.99 quicker must meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.4 specs.
Flywheel shield – All cars using a clutch and running quicker than 11.99 or faster than
135mph must be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4inch minimum thickness
steel plate. In lieu of shield, a blanket meeting SFI 4.1 spec, completely surrounding the
bellhousing, is permitted
Flywheel – Stock-type cast iron flywheels and/or pressure plats are prohibited in any
car running 11.99 or quicker. Units that meet SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4 specs are
mandatory in all cars running 11.99 or quicker.
[/b][/quote]
Thanks Scrming for that info, but I was wondering if Mike would still recommend a scatter shield regardless of the ET because I think I will probably becoming out of the gates between 3,000-3,500 RPM's with his turbo with slicks on a stock oem setup (flywheel/clutch) so want to see what he thinks.
T
2/28/06 | 07:06 AM
#93
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: October 4, 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MSP @ February 27, 2006, 1:33 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Thanks for your email Mike, and your support! It means alot coming from you. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] But I to would love to see some pics of the setup on the car.........................
I was also wondering if people who bought your kit would be able to somehow get the piping chromed.. I have seen polished Turbo's all over.[/b][/quote]
All the tubing is 304 stainless steel, it can easily be polished to a chrome like finish by the purchaser, I do not think that it is an option that we will offer as of yet.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TJ06 @ February 27, 2006, 3:31 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
1. I know the 7.5 is ok but I am like 90% sure I am going to a GT 8.8/3.55 IMO just do not want to go with the 7.5 with my 5 spd. So with that in mind I plan on going right to slick’s or would you think drag’s radial’s would be more than enough running your turbo @8 or 9 psi for the best ET?
2. Mike I plan on installing your LCA’s, poss. shocks’ S-loop, etc. What RPM would you recommend coming out of the gate at with slick’s or drag radials?
(Just like to have reference point per your experience with this turbo in my head per above question when planning things out right now)
3. Would you think I have to run a scatter shield for the oem clutch/flywheel setup?
4. I do not know a lot about you or your shop, can customers have your turbo installed by you at your shop?
Looking forward to the picture or pictures did I say picture’s as in plural the more the merrier you can’t post enough for me or other people I am sure. I also look forward to seeing you’re other dyno graphs too!
Thanks
[/b][/quote]
1. We typically run a M/T drag radial on either car with great success. Drag raial technology has come leaps and bounds and are way more stable at low pressures than bias tires.
2. Depends on yoursetup and track conditions, it is not uncommon to come out as hard as 45-5000rpm. After all e.t. is determined in the first 60ft.
3. Depending on your e.t. a scatter sheild may be required.
4. Absolutely, we would gladly install the system, in fact we can take care of any of your needs.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Goliath @ February 27, 2006, 1:23 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
yes! pictures, please!
[/b][/quote]
Thanks for your email Mike, and your support! It means alot coming from you. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] But I to would love to see some pics of the setup on the car.........................
I was also wondering if people who bought your kit would be able to somehow get the piping chromed.. I have seen polished Turbo's all over.[/b][/quote]
All the tubing is 304 stainless steel, it can easily be polished to a chrome like finish by the purchaser, I do not think that it is an option that we will offer as of yet.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TJ06 @ February 27, 2006, 3:31 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
1. I know the 7.5 is ok but I am like 90% sure I am going to a GT 8.8/3.55 IMO just do not want to go with the 7.5 with my 5 spd. So with that in mind I plan on going right to slick’s or would you think drag’s radial’s would be more than enough running your turbo @8 or 9 psi for the best ET?
2. Mike I plan on installing your LCA’s, poss. shocks’ S-loop, etc. What RPM would you recommend coming out of the gate at with slick’s or drag radials?
(Just like to have reference point per your experience with this turbo in my head per above question when planning things out right now)
3. Would you think I have to run a scatter shield for the oem clutch/flywheel setup?
4. I do not know a lot about you or your shop, can customers have your turbo installed by you at your shop?
Looking forward to the picture or pictures did I say picture’s as in plural the more the merrier you can’t post enough for me or other people I am sure. I also look forward to seeing you’re other dyno graphs too!
Thanks
[/b][/quote]
1. We typically run a M/T drag radial on either car with great success. Drag raial technology has come leaps and bounds and are way more stable at low pressures than bias tires.
2. Depends on yoursetup and track conditions, it is not uncommon to come out as hard as 45-5000rpm. After all e.t. is determined in the first 60ft.
3. Depending on your e.t. a scatter sheild may be required.
4. Absolutely, we would gladly install the system, in fact we can take care of any of your needs.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Goliath @ February 27, 2006, 1:23 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
yes! pictures, please!
[/b][/quote]
2/28/06 | 08:46 AM
#95
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 26, 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'> Mike@PowerHouse
1. We typically run a M/T drag radial on either car with great success. Drag raial technology has come leaps and bounds and are way more stable at low pressures than bias tires.
2. Depends on yoursetup and track conditions, it is not uncommon to come out as hard as 45-5000rpm. After all e.t. is determined in the first 60ft.
3. Depending on your e.t. a scatter sheild may be required.
4. Absolutely, we would gladly install the system, in fact we can take care of any of your needs.[/b][/quote]
Hope you don't mind took the liberty of quick and dirty run in PhotoShop by enlarging and adding a little curves to your picture.
1.Great!! I won’t have to buy slicks & DR's for the street, just a set of DR for track and knocking around town per car meets and cruise nights if I choose to.
2.I agree about the 60ft and conditions but I won’t be doing much of that 45-5K, I will make some attempts at that RPM but will just be the quickest ET for car but that is it.
I will set up and work on the best ET at about 3k-3500 maybe a little higher if I get confidence in this motor/ drive train after awhile at slightly higher rpm.
3.On the scatter shield I was wondering should I still run one regardless of the ET per oem setup flywheel/clutch?
4.We will have to talk soon.
@Scrming
( 300D ISO 400 w/onboard flash but this has no flash exposure flash compensation setting which is tuff to get a good exposure at times one of the reasons I went to the D70, but I still thought it was a very good camera)
1. We typically run a M/T drag radial on either car with great success. Drag raial technology has come leaps and bounds and are way more stable at low pressures than bias tires.
2. Depends on yoursetup and track conditions, it is not uncommon to come out as hard as 45-5000rpm. After all e.t. is determined in the first 60ft.
3. Depending on your e.t. a scatter sheild may be required.
4. Absolutely, we would gladly install the system, in fact we can take care of any of your needs.[/b][/quote]
Hope you don't mind took the liberty of quick and dirty run in PhotoShop by enlarging and adding a little curves to your picture.
1.Great!! I won’t have to buy slicks & DR's for the street, just a set of DR for track and knocking around town per car meets and cruise nights if I choose to.
2.I agree about the 60ft and conditions but I won’t be doing much of that 45-5K, I will make some attempts at that RPM but will just be the quickest ET for car but that is it.
I will set up and work on the best ET at about 3k-3500 maybe a little higher if I get confidence in this motor/ drive train after awhile at slightly higher rpm.
3.On the scatter shield I was wondering should I still run one regardless of the ET per oem setup flywheel/clutch?
4.We will have to talk soon.
@Scrming
( 300D ISO 400 w/onboard flash but this has no flash exposure flash compensation setting which is tuff to get a good exposure at times one of the reasons I went to the D70, but I still thought it was a very good camera)
2/28/06 | 10:22 AM
#96
Banned
Joined: September 19, 2005
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 0
Thanks for posting the pics Mike! The pics look really nice!
Also, I like your MAF tube! How long did it take for you to design it? Also, have you also conducted test to see how accurate the filliments are measuring the speed of the air? I bet this is what took you the longest in the beginning?
Also, on the Pipeline Turbo can the MAF Curve be adjusted up or down within a few percentage points? If so, what is the net effect of the change? Meaning how does it correspond to daily driving and at the race track racing? Thanks Mike! Lookin good! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
Also, I like your MAF tube! How long did it take for you to design it? Also, have you also conducted test to see how accurate the filliments are measuring the speed of the air? I bet this is what took you the longest in the beginning?
Also, on the Pipeline Turbo can the MAF Curve be adjusted up or down within a few percentage points? If so, what is the net effect of the change? Meaning how does it correspond to daily driving and at the race track racing? Thanks Mike! Lookin good! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
2/28/06 | 12:38 PM
#97
Cobra Member
Joined: July 28, 2005
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TJ06 @ February 28, 2006, 10:49 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
@Scrming
( 300D ISO 400 w/onboard flash but this has no flash exposure flash compensation setting which is tuff to get a good exposure at times one of the reasons I went to the D70, but I still thought it was a very good camera)
[/b][/quote]
yep, that was my only real complaint with the 300D... no flash comp... but 99% of my shots are without flash... so it wasn't a big deal... there is also a "hack" out there to give you some flash comp... worked ok...
@Scrming
( 300D ISO 400 w/onboard flash but this has no flash exposure flash compensation setting which is tuff to get a good exposure at times one of the reasons I went to the D70, but I still thought it was a very good camera)
[/b][/quote]
yep, that was my only real complaint with the 300D... no flash comp... but 99% of my shots are without flash... so it wasn't a big deal... there is also a "hack" out there to give you some flash comp... worked ok...
2/28/06 | 01:35 PM
#98
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: April 29, 2005
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 5
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TJ06 @ February 28, 2006, 10:49 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Hope you don't mind took the liberty of quick and dirty run in PhotoShop by enlarging and adding a little curves to your picture.
1.Great!! I won’t have to buy slicks & DR's for the street, just a set of DR for track and knocking around town per car meets and cruise nights if I choose to.
2.I agree about the 60ft and conditions but I won’t be doing much of that 45-5K, just make some passes at that RPM to work on for my quickest ET for car but that is it.
I will set up and work on the best ET at about 3k-3500 maybe a little higher if I get confidence in this motor/ drive train after awhile at slightly higher rpm.
3.On the scatter shield I was wondering should I still run one regardless of the ET per oem setup flywheel/clutch?
4.We will have to talk soon.
@Scrming
( 300D ISO 400 w/onboard flash but this has no flash exposure flash compensation setting which is tuff to get a good exposure at times one of the reasons I went to the D70, but I still thought it was a very good camera)
[/b][/quote]
I'm going to add this pic to the power adders thread if that's cool with everyone.
Hope you don't mind took the liberty of quick and dirty run in PhotoShop by enlarging and adding a little curves to your picture.
1.Great!! I won’t have to buy slicks & DR's for the street, just a set of DR for track and knocking around town per car meets and cruise nights if I choose to.
2.I agree about the 60ft and conditions but I won’t be doing much of that 45-5K, just make some passes at that RPM to work on for my quickest ET for car but that is it.
I will set up and work on the best ET at about 3k-3500 maybe a little higher if I get confidence in this motor/ drive train after awhile at slightly higher rpm.
3.On the scatter shield I was wondering should I still run one regardless of the ET per oem setup flywheel/clutch?
4.We will have to talk soon.
@Scrming
( 300D ISO 400 w/onboard flash but this has no flash exposure flash compensation setting which is tuff to get a good exposure at times one of the reasons I went to the D70, but I still thought it was a very good camera)
[/b][/quote]
I'm going to add this pic to the power adders thread if that's cool with everyone.
2/28/06 | 03:24 PM
#99
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Joined: January 26, 2006
Posts: 43
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BlackLX4.0 @ February 27, 2006, 12:38 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
This thing is going to hurt my credit card. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
I'd say the same, but these are out of my league! It seemed like yesterday I didn't have a job, looking through magazines.. everything seemed so far out of reach. Now I have a fairly good job, a stang of my own, and I still can't buy ish that I want! ARGH!
FINANCING! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]
This thing is going to hurt my credit card. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
I'd say the same, but these are out of my league! It seemed like yesterday I didn't have a job, looking through magazines.. everything seemed so far out of reach. Now I have a fairly good job, a stang of my own, and I still can't buy ish that I want! ARGH!
FINANCING! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]
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