N20 vs. SC vs. Turbo on the 4.0 V6 for the 1/4 mile
#21
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MSP
Scrming should do fine with the 4.10's with 300RWHP as a base, as long as he is on DR's.. The stock gearing does really good on the street, but I have 3.73's which will be present in my 7.5 when I make my first trip down the track..
Overall I think the 4.10's in Scrming's car with the SC will result in the same efficiency found in most N/A GT's running 12.9's and 12.8's... Look for Scrming's performance while at 300RWHP using the 4.10's to compete quite effectively with N/A GT's making similar power and running 4.10's..
Since my goal is a much higher trap speed, I need a slightly taller gear with the 3.73..
Overall I think the 4.10's in Scrming's car with the SC will result in the same efficiency found in most N/A GT's running 12.9's and 12.8's... Look for Scrming's performance while at 300RWHP using the 4.10's to compete quite effectively with N/A GT's making similar power and running 4.10's..
Since my goal is a much higher trap speed, I need a slightly taller gear with the 3.73..
@Fazm,
What gearing are you running in your cobra?
#22
Exception 13
BTW, I am planning to adjust my rev limiter to the 5800 range so that I will not blow my engine powershifting. As soon as boost kicks in when I am in first, that needle flies right almost faster than I can shift!!
BTW, I am planning to adjust my rev limiter to the 5800 range so that I will not blow my engine powershifting. As soon as boost kicks in when I am in first, that needle flies right almost faster than I can shift!!
E-13 on the older cars with out a rev limiter (you had to install a tach/rev) if you missed a gear say shifting at 7K and you lift might hit around 7.5 K – 8K isn’t going hurt the motor or blow it . If you don’t lift and hit 9k-10k on a 7k motor or bury the tach yea that’s when you can poss hurt or blow the motor.
So since these Mustangs have a factory set redline rev limiter just shift at your 5800 and if you miss just lift and also the factory rev limiter will kick in at 6K which will protect you and won't let you get anywhere near (high rpm) blowing this motor.
On a 1/4 mile run when powershifting the pedal stays nailed to the floor though all gears, the only time you lift is at the end of the run or if you miss a gear.
@ Rygen
You guys aren’t saying you have to run under a 2.0 60FT to run a mid 12 ?
Rygen so you are not running the ¼ this weekend?
#23
Originally Posted by Fazm
the stock clutch wont hold up, i can tell you that much, as mine is already hurting, as well as 3rd (and recently 4th) gear in the transmission. Powerhouse is also havin probs with 3rd gear. But we powershift the car, if you arent going to be doin that, things will last a little longer (the clutch wont, slower shifts will wear it faster, especially soft launches where u have to ride the clutch)
Now with that said, it does appear the automatics in general have a very distinct advantage to some extent.. This is do to less mechanical faliure in the longterm.. While the manuals in theory should be able to launch at much higher rpms, it does come at a huge cost to the tranny and clutch..
I am pretty confident the most consistent ET's and durability will be with the Auto tranny guys..
It appears they have a very severe advantage in terms of reliability..
#24
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TJ06
E-13 couple things here, you won’t blow your motor because I believe these Mustangs have the rev set at redline. So if you miss you will be protected by the factory set rev limiter.
E-13 on the older cars with out a rev limiter (you had to install a tach/rev) if you missed a gear say shifting at 7K and you lift might hit around 7.5 K – 8K isn’t going hurt the motor or blow it . If you don’t lift and hit 9k-10k on a 7k motor or bury the tach yea that’s when you can poss hurt or blow the motor.
So since these Mustangs have a factory set redline rev limiter just shift at your 5800 and if you miss just lift and also the factory rev limiter will kick in at 6K which will protect you and won't let you get anywhere near (high rpm) blowing this motor.
On a 1/4 mile run when powershifting the pedal stays nailed to the floor though all gears, the only time you lift is at the end of the run or if you miss a gear.
@ Rygen
You guys aren’t saying you have to run under a 2.0 60FT to run a mid 12 ?
Rygen so you are not running the ¼ this weekend?
E-13 on the older cars with out a rev limiter (you had to install a tach/rev) if you missed a gear say shifting at 7K and you lift might hit around 7.5 K – 8K isn’t going hurt the motor or blow it . If you don’t lift and hit 9k-10k on a 7k motor or bury the tach yea that’s when you can poss hurt or blow the motor.
So since these Mustangs have a factory set redline rev limiter just shift at your 5800 and if you miss just lift and also the factory rev limiter will kick in at 6K which will protect you and won't let you get anywhere near (high rpm) blowing this motor.
On a 1/4 mile run when powershifting the pedal stays nailed to the floor though all gears, the only time you lift is at the end of the run or if you miss a gear.
@ Rygen
You guys aren’t saying you have to run under a 2.0 60FT to run a mid 12 ?
Rygen so you are not running the ¼ this weekend?
So I am on fall back plan, tomorrow I am leaving work early and going straight to Maryland International Raceway for 1/4 mile TNT night. Its supposed to thunder storm tonight and all day tomorrow, hopefully it will be clear by 6:30PM tomorrow.
#25
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MSP
LOL!! Advantage Automatics in this area.. The Manual transmission guys have a whole other area of concern which is designed to limit our overall capabilities..
Now with that said, it does appear the automatics in general have a very distinct advantage to some extent.. This is do to less mechanical faliure in the longterm.. While the manuals in theory should be able to launch at much higher rpms, it does come at a huge cost to the tranny and clutch..
I am pretty confident the most consistent ET's and durability will be with the Auto tranny guys..
It appears they have a very severe advantage in terms of reliability..
Now with that said, it does appear the automatics in general have a very distinct advantage to some extent.. This is do to less mechanical faliure in the longterm.. While the manuals in theory should be able to launch at much higher rpms, it does come at a huge cost to the tranny and clutch..
I am pretty confident the most consistent ET's and durability will be with the Auto tranny guys..
It appears they have a very severe advantage in terms of reliability..
#26
Originally Posted by rygenstormlocke
Yea, but manuals make more power, and can get us on the line. A manaul can drop the hammer at 5K. Even with a stall we can't do that.
May not be as fast as EX13 or Fazm cause they will be powershifting and launching at 5K..
Actually, I think EX13 is in my camp on this.. He may say publicly he will powershift and launch hard, but he loves his car so much, he will be easy on it.. Fazm on the other hand owns his own shop, so will most likley look forward to an opportunity to break something so he can upgrade it..
#27
Thread Starter
At what RPM do you plan on launching? You plan on running streets or DR's? And what make/model tires do you plan on running? You are planning on proving a theory, on what is safe for our cars at the track, so I am curious about these details and your approach.
#28
Originally Posted by MSP
Actually, I think EX13 is in my camp on this.. He may say publicly he will powershift and launch hard, but he loves his car so much, he will be easy on it..
BUT I want to have a 12 second time slip before the year is out, so she is going to take a bit of a beating. I didn't get her a girdle and TT for nothing! So I will progressively pick up the pace on her until I have to put safety loops on!! That is my goal, to have to put the drive shaft loops on because she is under 12.99....
#29
never let off the gas. I apply really light pressure on the shifter, and just in and out on the clutch real fast while applying hard pressure on the shifter, pops it into gear really fast. When i had the open diff it use to spin 2nd lose (sideways) and chirp 3rd.
I do not recommend this if you dont have another car. I do this because i have another car, and i just dont care lol. Ill be rebuilding (stronger) the trans and puttin a new clutch in soon
I do not recommend this if you dont have another car. I do this because i have another car, and i just dont care lol. Ill be rebuilding (stronger) the trans and puttin a new clutch in soon
#30
Attention all Supercharger & Turbo Enthunsiast!!
I must formally tell all of you to order a Snow Performance Water/Meth Kit!!
Got mine installed and it is sick!! OMG!! Even my wife was fascinated by the technology!! Man Oh' Man I cant recommend this kit enough!
Talk about kooling the boost, this is truley one of the most worthwhile of all time if your running boost..
All I have left to do is route the on/off switch into the cockpit, and also the manual push button activation.. The Push button is so if I am stuck in traffic and the Air temp starts to heat up, I can shoot alittle water into the intake to cool things off until get moving again..
Again, I must stress order your Snow Performance Water/Meth kit today!!
I just want to add that when the water kicks in @ 4psi the intake temps plummet, and a noticable boost above boost does take place.. Really hard to explain, tryit for yourself.. Man this is insane, I love it!!
I must formally tell all of you to order a Snow Performance Water/Meth Kit!!
Got mine installed and it is sick!! OMG!! Even my wife was fascinated by the technology!! Man Oh' Man I cant recommend this kit enough!
Talk about kooling the boost, this is truley one of the most worthwhile of all time if your running boost..
All I have left to do is route the on/off switch into the cockpit, and also the manual push button activation.. The Push button is so if I am stuck in traffic and the Air temp starts to heat up, I can shoot alittle water into the intake to cool things off until get moving again..
Again, I must stress order your Snow Performance Water/Meth kit today!!
I just want to add that when the water kicks in @ 4psi the intake temps plummet, and a noticable boost above boost does take place.. Really hard to explain, tryit for yourself.. Man this is insane, I love it!!
#31
Originally Posted by rygenstormlocke
We will find out once Firestang does his next run.
#32
Originally Posted by Fazm
never let off the gas. I apply really light pressure on the shifter, and just in and out on the clutch real fast while applying hard pressure on the shifter, pops it into gear really fast. When i had the open diff it use to spin 2nd lose (sideways) and chirp 3rd.
I do not recommend this if you dont have another car. I do this because i have another car, and i just dont care lol. Ill be rebuilding (stronger) the trans and puttin a new clutch in soon
I do not recommend this if you dont have another car. I do this because i have another car, and i just dont care lol. Ill be rebuilding (stronger) the trans and puttin a new clutch in soon
#33
Originally Posted by firestang70
Yeah we will see. I hope to get there. Looks like I will be trying with street tires first(will have to baby off the line at 2k or maybe not! LOL). Taking a trip to Canada beginning of July so I must conserve cash for the new wheels for the DRs. Right now I am at 281 rwhp on a 87 tune.
#34
Originally Posted by Fazm
never let off the gas. I apply really light pressure on the shifter, and just in and out on the clutch real fast while applying hard pressure on the shifter, pops it into gear really fast. When i had the open diff it use to spin 2nd lose (sideways) and chirp 3rd.
I do not recommend this if you dont have another car. I do this because i have another car, and i just dont care lol. Ill be rebuilding (stronger) the trans and puttin a new clutch in soon
I do not recommend this if you dont have another car. I do this because i have another car, and i just dont care lol. Ill be rebuilding (stronger) the trans and puttin a new clutch in soon
You can also miss/grind a gear without power shifting seen guys do it which can also hurt this tranny a grind is a grind (as if power shifting) and missing per number of times. I really get the impression that this tranny will have a hard time holding up on DR’s and speed shifting (aka granny shifting IMO ) on consistent track use. The name of the game is don’t miss if you do make it rare speed shifting or power shifting.
Fazm question for you just curious per your statement if you don’t have another car don’t power shift could you explain your concern on this in more detail?
The reason I ask is I have been power shifting around ten years never damaged the car due to power shifting where it was un drivable. Yes clutch will go that’s normal wear due to # of track runs and I had one tranny where 2nd gear sync’s went out (still drivable) but that’s it that sync could have also been due to normal track use not powershifting, also had a clutch go slipping but still drivable. Also you have stated you have ran about 80-100 runs and missed gears and your car is drivable, the clutch that’s normal wear esp. with DR’s and to be expected your third gear could be due to missed gears which can also happen with non power shifting.
The other thing this trans is a lightweight have seen and read about non racers 3rd gear going, shifting becoming harder in other gears, and noisy trans problems that have gotten worst that needed to be repaired. So in general this trans is not the best period.
I just see no problem if you know how to power shift correctly not much harder if any on the car vs. launching on DR’s and speed shifting.
PS of course a nice hurst shifter is nice.
#35
Originally Posted by TJ06
Few other things this is a factory stock clutch setup when running DR’s launching and going to the track are a regular basis the clutch is going to go. I would prefer an aftermarket stronger clutch anyway if I was going to the track a lot so that’s really not a concern it is should be replaced anyway. The other thing is need more research but on older cars you had a thick flywheel that the pressure plate bolts up to and on this Mustang you do not a true nice flywheel. You have a cheap flex plate so I believe this also might/should need to be replaced but haven’t researched this flex enough yet.
You can also miss/grind a gear without power shifting seen guys do it which can also hurt this tranny a grind is a grind (as if power shifting) and missing per number of times. I really get the impression that this tranny will have a hard time holding up on DR’s and speed shifting (aka granny shifting IMO ) on consistent track use. The name of the game is don’t miss if you do make it rare speed shifting or power shifting.
Fazm question for you just curious per your statement if you don’t have another car don’t power shift could you explain your concern on this in more detail?
The reason I ask is I have been power shifting around ten years never damaged the car due to power shifting where it was un drivable. Yes clutch will go that’s normal wear due to # of track runs and I had one tranny where 2nd gear sync’s went out (still drivable) but that’s it that sync could have also been due to normal track use not powershifting, also had a clutch go slipping but still drivable. Also you have stated you have ran about 80-100 runs and missed gears and your car is drivable, the clutch that’s normal wear esp. with DR’s and to be expected your third gear could be due to missed gears which can also happen with non power shifting.
The other thing this trans is a lightweight have seen and read about non racers 3rd gear going, shifting becoming harder in other gears, and noisy trans problems that have gotten worst that needed to be repaired. So in general this trans is not the best period.
I just see no problem if you know how to power shift correctly not much harder if any on the car vs. launching on DR’s and speed shifting.
PS of course a nice hurst shifter is nice.
You can also miss/grind a gear without power shifting seen guys do it which can also hurt this tranny a grind is a grind (as if power shifting) and missing per number of times. I really get the impression that this tranny will have a hard time holding up on DR’s and speed shifting (aka granny shifting IMO ) on consistent track use. The name of the game is don’t miss if you do make it rare speed shifting or power shifting.
Fazm question for you just curious per your statement if you don’t have another car don’t power shift could you explain your concern on this in more detail?
The reason I ask is I have been power shifting around ten years never damaged the car due to power shifting where it was un drivable. Yes clutch will go that’s normal wear due to # of track runs and I had one tranny where 2nd gear sync’s went out (still drivable) but that’s it that sync could have also been due to normal track use not powershifting, also had a clutch go slipping but still drivable. Also you have stated you have ran about 80-100 runs and missed gears and your car is drivable, the clutch that’s normal wear esp. with DR’s and to be expected your third gear could be due to missed gears which can also happen with non power shifting.
The other thing this trans is a lightweight have seen and read about non racers 3rd gear going, shifting becoming harder in other gears, and noisy trans problems that have gotten worst that needed to be repaired. So in general this trans is not the best period.
I just see no problem if you know how to power shift correctly not much harder if any on the car vs. launching on DR’s and speed shifting.
PS of course a nice hurst shifter is nice.
#36
THIS SUCKS!!!
@Rygen - I know how you feel now... I just found out that my track has some NHRA event going on on the week of the 14th!! AAARRRGGHHHH
Looks like now need to move it to the following week on the 21st. Just have to hope for NO rain, and the wife not coming up with something on that day !!
@MSP - Got any pics of the Snow ? I'm still tossing that idea around as simply a cooler "on demand" if I keep my stock pulley. I'd like to see how the Snow affects performance with simply spraying and not tuning for it's Meth - Just for taking advantage of it's cooling effect and see if performance increases all other things constant. Hope you get a chance to dyno with and without and see what if any advantage. I am going to get the Cobra Heat exchanger in the mean time as well...
@Rygen - I know how you feel now... I just found out that my track has some NHRA event going on on the week of the 14th!! AAARRRGGHHHH
Looks like now need to move it to the following week on the 21st. Just have to hope for NO rain, and the wife not coming up with something on that day !!
@MSP - Got any pics of the Snow ? I'm still tossing that idea around as simply a cooler "on demand" if I keep my stock pulley. I'd like to see how the Snow affects performance with simply spraying and not tuning for it's Meth - Just for taking advantage of it's cooling effect and see if performance increases all other things constant. Hope you get a chance to dyno with and without and see what if any advantage. I am going to get the Cobra Heat exchanger in the mean time as well...
#37
Originally Posted by Fazm
If you know how to powershift, thats all good. Its the people asking "what is it" or "how do you do it" that i dont recommend doing it on your daily driver, because you dont want to render your car undriveable.
Ok 10-4 , I was just wondering if you had any bad experiences PS’ing i.e break something, it’s just I am pro for PS all the way and believe it’s the only way if you are serious about track racing and are good at it or can pick up like poss E-13 with out a problem. I do not see it as being hard on the car vs. speed shifting IMO.
But on the other hand if you install a turbo, setup the susp to launch, put on DR’s and go to the track with consistence you could also say you shouldn’t do it for that alone unless you have a second car .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CiniZter
General Vehicle Discussion/News
25
4/28/16 05:41 PM