[SIZE=1][COLOR=blue] The Only Issue I Have On My Mustang Is The Poping Noise When Turning Every Thing Else is Fine Over 2,000 Miles Now

 

If you wait for your car to warm up and for the revs to drop to 750 rpms, you will notice that the clunk when going into revse is a lot quieter.

 

I was thinking about buying a V6 convertible, but ... should I wait for the 2006? How bad are these problems? I mean, are you afraid you're going to break down?

I'm a female and I drive a lot alone -- I mean I travel thousands of miles alone and I'm always concerned about break downs.

What is with the refueling? In NJ we're not allowed to pump our own gas, so am I going to have problems each time a new guy tries to refuel my tank?

 

Something very odd happened to me last night.

I had to pick my kid up from a field trip at 9 last night. I was sitting in the line with my other kid amusing ourselves with it it on and in park.

We turned one of the over head lights on to read something... And the engine would rev higher and the light would dim.

Then I turned on the AC and there was some godawful LOUD noise coming from under the hood I never noticed before. It quit when I turned off the AC.

And it is still hesitating between shifts, even though the dealer says I am nuts.

 

I have had no problems @ 3150 miles...

 

I have 3150 miles on mine now and its been pretty good. I think I hear a slight popping sound from the front at times when turning so I am keeping an eye on that until the is a bullitin with a fix from ford. My shaker 500 is good 99.9% of the time, it only messes up when I put a regular CD from the store in and it will "skip" on a track for a sec and then be fine for the rest of the CD, who knows...

 

I have some issues with mine ranging from rattles in the dash to a transmission leak. One question, has anyone noticed when they hit about 65 MPH or more when the windows are closed and stereo off a rattling noise coming from around the floor area near the speaker on the door panel. It sounds like it is coming from both passenger and driver side. I have had the dealer look at it and they said that it is wind noise. I am not so sure about that.

 

I recently ran my air conditioner and every 10 or so seconds, there was a loud short hiss under the hood, kind like a blow off valve releasing pressure. I think it is coming from the compressor. Anybody experience this?

 

No problems with mine, of course I have manual tranny.

What the heck is this gas tank problem?

 

While filling up the gas tank, the pump shuts off repeatedly or it fills slowly. There is a TSB out for it. There is a sticky of TSB's in the "2005+ Mustang" forum.

 

The only place my gas tank will not fill properly is Racetrac.

I have no problems elsewhere.

 

It is the AC clutch clicking on and off. Pop the hood and look at the AC clutch with the car runinng and the AC on. Mine does the exact smae thing. I thought it might be the compressor too, so i had my dad take a look at it. It's nothing to worry about.

 

For those with "hesitation" issues or other acceleration problems you may want to have the car looked over by your dealer. We were experiencing many of these issues too. It leventually lead to the car not acclerating at all, it would only idle, and got a couple of rides on a flatbed. After a couple of times having this happen, Ford came to look at the car at the dealer and determined the throttle body itself was the issue. The new throttle body has not been on long but all those issues are now gone. No hesitation and great throttle response. Just a heads up.

 

Thanks jsheehan. I was thinking it could be the a/c clutch, but on every other car I have been around, the clutch always made a *click* instead of a *pssst*.

Other issues I have had with the car:
1. Gas tank issue
2. Small tear in drivers leather seat (repaired without a trace)
3. Small red paint spots under the clearcoat of my legend lime rear bumper (it gets repainted next week)

 

My brakes are becoming an embarassment.

It hesitates on acceleration(dealer said I was full of it)

the pop is also embarassing.

Shaker works primo though now that I have a second one.

 

1. Slight vibration at 1600 rpm. No vibration at higher speeds just pure joy.
2. We had snow and cold weather the last few days which I am sure resulted in the initial break squeal last night. But after a mile no break squeal just more pure joy.
3. The only real problem of note is that the car has to be on a flat area to refuel. If the gas station has an uneven or sloped gas bay the car will not fuel properly. I have tried it several times. On a completely flat surface the refueling is great. Once totally refueled more pure joy.

 

I have always found that if my A/C compressor cycled more than nrmal, it was low on refrigerant. Have had 3 new vehicles over the years and every one of them was 1/2 to 1 pound low on refrigerant when I bought them. The dealership had to add more refrigerant when I complained and everything smoothed out. I think they skimp sometimes in the manufacturing process. On a 90 degree day my car wouldn't get below 80 inside at first; after recharging it was like a refrigerator inside when I wanted it that way.

 

I just heard back from the dealer (car was in for rear bumper paint) and they said the a/c sound was normal. They said it cycles a lot more when the fan in set at a low speed vs a high speed.

 

It is the AC clutch clicking on and off. Pop the hood and look at the AC clutch with the car runinng and the AC on. Mine does the exact smae thing. I thought it might be the compressor too, so i had my dad take a look at it. It's nothing to worry about.
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Beat me to it. Aye it's a gap in the clutch. Mine does that constantly. Can't be arsed with getting around to the dealer to fix it just yet. No problem from it except the fact that it's annoying to have a new car making all the clicks and clunks.

 

My latest issue is the trunk key housing unit. I popped open the trunk using the remote and the housing box fell out. It is held into the body by two plastic inserts. One of the inserts is broken. Dealer advises four weeks to get the part.