Your supercharger specs...
10/22/08 | 12:46 PM
#21
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 30, 2008
Posts: 721
Likes: 2
From: Pacific NW USA
How about some helpful suspension information please?
OK Don,
How about some helpful information please rather than insinuating "people"are building halfassed hotrods.
For instance, I have no "money thrown at the engine" absolutely not a dyno queen, just a really nice stock mustang with more power than traction. Bone Stock! GT500.
What do you do to it to hook up on the 1/4 mile track without diminishing the street driving and corner handling?
Here are three pictures of a GT500 that suffers from more power than traction even with suspension mods, gear change and drag radials.
I did not get a suspension modification list from him.
This guy is running 11.43 @ 127.24
4.10/1 gears with Mickey Thompson P305/45R18 drag radials
And he still has to launch at 1800 RPM...
How about some helpful information please rather than insinuating "people"are building halfassed hotrods.
For instance, I have no "money thrown at the engine" absolutely not a dyno queen, just a really nice stock mustang with more power than traction. Bone Stock! GT500.
What do you do to it to hook up on the 1/4 mile track without diminishing the street driving and corner handling?
Here are three pictures of a GT500 that suffers from more power than traction even with suspension mods, gear change and drag radials.
I did not get a suspension modification list from him.
This guy is running 11.43 @ 127.24
4.10/1 gears with Mickey Thompson P305/45R18 drag radials
And he still has to launch at 1800 RPM...
My response to that is that anyone who is having traction problems (even on the street), did not properly plan or execute their build. They most likely fell into the "more-power-is-always-better" trap. It's commonplace for that to happen. They throw money at the engine, and forget the rest of the car.
So someone has gobs of power, but can't use it. I think that is called a dyno queen.
So someone has gobs of power, but can't use it. I think that is called a dyno queen.
10/22/08 | 01:37 PM
#22
First of all, I wasn't insinuating that anyone was building half-assed hot rods. But you have to admit that having a bunch of power you can't put to the ground isn't much fun... right? There are always trade offs when building a car, but things can be done to improve traction.
Now in response, "cornering ability" is subjective. Not many successful drag cars can do that well. Mine isn't a corner carver by any means, nor do I want it to be. But, it is still a daily driver in all types of weather... and my street tires are M&H drag radials. I run them at 25psi on the street, so they hook pretty well all things considered. But I won't be hitting the twisties up in the mountains somewhere. With my old regular street tires, the car would just go sideways when I hit the loud pedal... now it just hooks and goes straight.
I also have the rear suspension set up stiff (which I actually prefer), because I don't care to change the suspension from track to street and back again all the time. I drive it set up the same way as I race it. But, it wouldn't be difficult to come up with a combination that could be stiff on the track, and softer on the street. Stock springs and adjustable shocks would be a good start. I used to run Strange adj shocks, but now I'm running coilovers. I'm not sure yet whether I'll keep the coilovers, or go back to stock springs and drag shocks. Still experimenting...
Although 18" DRs aren't the optimal size (not much sidewall, which is important for traction), they can be made to work at the track. I know of a couple guys getting great 60' times on even 20" DRs. The trick is generally to heat them up well, and find the optimum air pressure (as well as the best launch rpm and technique). That takes trial and error. When I was dialing in a set of DRs, I would start at 20psi. If it spun, I would drop them to 19psi and try again. I would drop it 1psi at a time until it hooked. Once it hooked, I would leave them there (17 psi ended up being my sweet spot). If the car hooked at 20psi, then go up 1psi at a time until it spins, then back it off 1psi.
I prefer to run slicks at the track, because for me they are more consistent, and in the long run cost about 1/4 to 1/3 of what DRs cost. But I realize not everyone can do that. There are plenty of 9 and 10 second cars on DRs.
A big problem the GT500 has is the weight distribution, and the weight overall. It's fairly nose heavy. So, IMO the key is to try to maximize the weight transfer. There are a few ways to do it, but one that worked for me was to move the instant center of the car rearwards, by getting LCA relocation brackets and adj LCAs. I like the Steeda relo brackets for two reasons: (1) they have three adjustment holes, giving me a range of LCA angles to choose from, and (2) they work very well for anti-squat purposes. If the rear end is squatting, it's not planting the tires.
Same goes for body roll on the launch. If it rolls to the right from the torque, then it is unloading the left rear tire. At first I tried setting the right shock several clicks firmer than the left, and that worked some, but did not get me where I wanted to be. So I recently added the BMR Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, and now the car launches pretty flat. But, that piece may be too stiff for some people on the street, but I like it.
Of course, losing weight up front is always a good thing. I have a tubular K-member, rad support, and sway bar delete. At the track, the front skinnies are good for at least 65 to 70 lbs more off the front end.
Well, there are a few ideas... maybe some will work.
Now in response, "cornering ability" is subjective. Not many successful drag cars can do that well. Mine isn't a corner carver by any means, nor do I want it to be. But, it is still a daily driver in all types of weather... and my street tires are M&H drag radials. I run them at 25psi on the street, so they hook pretty well all things considered. But I won't be hitting the twisties up in the mountains somewhere. With my old regular street tires, the car would just go sideways when I hit the loud pedal... now it just hooks and goes straight.
I also have the rear suspension set up stiff (which I actually prefer), because I don't care to change the suspension from track to street and back again all the time. I drive it set up the same way as I race it. But, it wouldn't be difficult to come up with a combination that could be stiff on the track, and softer on the street. Stock springs and adjustable shocks would be a good start. I used to run Strange adj shocks, but now I'm running coilovers. I'm not sure yet whether I'll keep the coilovers, or go back to stock springs and drag shocks. Still experimenting...
Although 18" DRs aren't the optimal size (not much sidewall, which is important for traction), they can be made to work at the track. I know of a couple guys getting great 60' times on even 20" DRs. The trick is generally to heat them up well, and find the optimum air pressure (as well as the best launch rpm and technique). That takes trial and error. When I was dialing in a set of DRs, I would start at 20psi. If it spun, I would drop them to 19psi and try again. I would drop it 1psi at a time until it hooked. Once it hooked, I would leave them there (17 psi ended up being my sweet spot). If the car hooked at 20psi, then go up 1psi at a time until it spins, then back it off 1psi.
I prefer to run slicks at the track, because for me they are more consistent, and in the long run cost about 1/4 to 1/3 of what DRs cost. But I realize not everyone can do that. There are plenty of 9 and 10 second cars on DRs.
A big problem the GT500 has is the weight distribution, and the weight overall. It's fairly nose heavy. So, IMO the key is to try to maximize the weight transfer. There are a few ways to do it, but one that worked for me was to move the instant center of the car rearwards, by getting LCA relocation brackets and adj LCAs. I like the Steeda relo brackets for two reasons: (1) they have three adjustment holes, giving me a range of LCA angles to choose from, and (2) they work very well for anti-squat purposes. If the rear end is squatting, it's not planting the tires.
Same goes for body roll on the launch. If it rolls to the right from the torque, then it is unloading the left rear tire. At first I tried setting the right shock several clicks firmer than the left, and that worked some, but did not get me where I wanted to be. So I recently added the BMR Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, and now the car launches pretty flat. But, that piece may be too stiff for some people on the street, but I like it.
Of course, losing weight up front is always a good thing. I have a tubular K-member, rad support, and sway bar delete. At the track, the front skinnies are good for at least 65 to 70 lbs more off the front end.
Well, there are a few ideas... maybe some will work.
Last edited by don_w; 10/22/08 at 02:20 PM.
10/22/08 | 01:51 PM
#23
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 30, 2008
Posts: 721
Likes: 2
From: Pacific NW USA
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
Don,
Now that is some very specific very GOOD Information, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
BTW:
I've built more than my share of halfassed hotrods, another one of those higher ambitions than income youth related things. That was one of the many reasons the GT500 was so appealing to me...
Now that is some very specific very GOOD Information, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
BTW:
I've built more than my share of halfassed hotrods, another one of those higher ambitions than income youth related things. That was one of the many reasons the GT500 was so appealing to me...
First of all, I wasn't insinuating that anyone was building half-assed hot rods. But you have to admit that having a bunch of power you can't put to the ground isn't much fun... right? There are always trade offs when building a car, but things can be done to improve traction.
Now in response, "cornering ability" is subjective. Not many successful drag cars can do that well. Mine isn't a corner carver by any means, nor do I want it to be. But, it is still a daily driver in all types of weather... and my street tires are M&H drag radials. I run them at 25psi on the street, so they hook pretty well all things considered. But I won't be hitting the twisties up in the mountains somewhere. With my old regular street tires, the car would just go sideways when I hit the loud pedal... not is just hooks and goes straight.
I also have the rear suspension set up stiff (which I actually prefer), because I don't care to change the suspension from track to street and back again all the time. I drive it set up the same way as I race it. But, it wouldn't be difficult to come up with a combination that could be stiff on the track, and softer on the street. Stock springs and adjustable shocks would be a good start. I used to run Strange adj shocks, but now I'm running coilovers. I'm not sure yet whether I'll keep the coilovers, or go back to stock springs and drag shocks. Still experimenting...
Although 18" DRs aren't the optimal size (not much sidewall, which is important for traction), they can be made to work at the track. I know of a couple guys getting great 60' times on even 20" DRs. The trick is generally to heat them up well, and find the optimum air pressure (as well as the best launch rpm and technique). That takes trial and error. When I was dialing in a set of DRs, I would start at 20psi. If it spun, I would drop them to 19psi and try again. I would drop it 1psi at a time until it hooked. Once it hooked, I would leave them there (17 psi ended up being my sweet spot). If the car hooked at 20psi, then go up 1psi at a time until it spins, then back it off 1psi.
I prefer to run slicks at the track, because for me they are more consistent, and in the long run cost about 1/4 to 1/3 of what DRs cost. But I realize not everyone can do that. There are plenty of 9 and 10 second cars on DRs.
A big problem the GT500 has is the weight distribution, and the weight overall. It's fairly nose heavy. So, IMO the key is to try to maximize the weight transfer. There are a few ways to do it, but one that worked for me was to move the instant center of the car rearwards, by getting LCA relocation brackets and adj LCAs. I like the Steeda relo brackets for two reasons: (1) they have three adjustment holes, giving me a range of LCA angles to choose from, and (2) they work very well for anti-squat purposes. If the rear end is squatting, it's not planting the tires.
Same goes for body roll on the launch. If it rolls to the right from the torque, then it is unloading the left rear tire. At first I tried setting the right shock several clicks firmer than the left, and that worked some, but did not get me where I wanted to be. So I recently added the BMR Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, and now the car launches pretty flat. But, that piece may be too stiff for some people on the street, but I like it.
Of course, losing weight up front is always a good thing. I have a tubular K-member, rad support, and sway bar delete. At the track, the front skinnies are good for at least 65 to 70 lbs more off the front end.
Well, there are a few ideas... maybe some will work.
Now in response, "cornering ability" is subjective. Not many successful drag cars can do that well. Mine isn't a corner carver by any means, nor do I want it to be. But, it is still a daily driver in all types of weather... and my street tires are M&H drag radials. I run them at 25psi on the street, so they hook pretty well all things considered. But I won't be hitting the twisties up in the mountains somewhere. With my old regular street tires, the car would just go sideways when I hit the loud pedal... not is just hooks and goes straight.
I also have the rear suspension set up stiff (which I actually prefer), because I don't care to change the suspension from track to street and back again all the time. I drive it set up the same way as I race it. But, it wouldn't be difficult to come up with a combination that could be stiff on the track, and softer on the street. Stock springs and adjustable shocks would be a good start. I used to run Strange adj shocks, but now I'm running coilovers. I'm not sure yet whether I'll keep the coilovers, or go back to stock springs and drag shocks. Still experimenting...
Although 18" DRs aren't the optimal size (not much sidewall, which is important for traction), they can be made to work at the track. I know of a couple guys getting great 60' times on even 20" DRs. The trick is generally to heat them up well, and find the optimum air pressure (as well as the best launch rpm and technique). That takes trial and error. When I was dialing in a set of DRs, I would start at 20psi. If it spun, I would drop them to 19psi and try again. I would drop it 1psi at a time until it hooked. Once it hooked, I would leave them there (17 psi ended up being my sweet spot). If the car hooked at 20psi, then go up 1psi at a time until it spins, then back it off 1psi.
I prefer to run slicks at the track, because for me they are more consistent, and in the long run cost about 1/4 to 1/3 of what DRs cost. But I realize not everyone can do that. There are plenty of 9 and 10 second cars on DRs.
A big problem the GT500 has is the weight distribution, and the weight overall. It's fairly nose heavy. So, IMO the key is to try to maximize the weight transfer. There are a few ways to do it, but one that worked for me was to move the instant center of the car rearwards, by getting LCA relocation brackets and adj LCAs. I like the Steeda relo brackets for two reasons: (1) they have three adjustment holes, giving me a range of LCA angles to choose from, and (2) they work very well for anti-squat purposes. If the rear end is squatting, it's not planting the tires.
Same goes for body roll on the launch. If it rolls to the right from the torque, then it is unloading the left rear tire. At first I tried setting the right shock several clicks firmer than the left, and that worked some, but did not get me where I wanted to be. So I recently added the BMR Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, and now the car launches pretty flat. But, that piece may be too stiff for some people on the street, but I like it.
Of course, losing weight up front is always a good thing. I have a tubular K-member, rad support, and sway bar delete. At the track, the front skinnies are good for at least 65 to 70 lbs more off the front end.
Well, there are a few ideas... maybe some will work.
10/23/08 | 11:20 AM
#25
1. What blower you have, innercooler or non.
2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size).
3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me.
4. Elevation if you know it.
5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger.....(in a controlled environment..of course...)
2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size).
3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me.
4. Elevation if you know it.
5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger.....(in a controlled environment..of course...)
2. 12 PSI
3. 11.42 * 118.92 or 11.43 @ 117.8 were my last two runs on an 88 degree day.
4. around 1250 feet
5. Yes a worthy "Challenger", lets see...
Here is a video a race with a "Challenger":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX3muykSCIM
10/23/08 | 12:19 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: March 2, 2008
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX 12.0 @ 118
Lets not get n to a mine is bigger than yours with the Chevy comment, just using them as an example.
10/23/08 | 12:25 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: March 2, 2008
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX 12.0 @ 118
1, Kenne Bell 2.4, intercooled
2. 12 PSI
3. 11.42 * 118.92 or 11.43 @ 117.8 were my last two runs on an 88 degree day.
4. around 1250 feet
5. Yes a worthy "Challenger", lets see...
Here is a video a race with a "Challenger":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX3muykSCIM
2. 12 PSI
3. 11.42 * 118.92 or 11.43 @ 117.8 were my last two runs on an 88 degree day.
4. around 1250 feet
5. Yes a worthy "Challenger", lets see...
Here is a video a race with a "Challenger":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX3muykSCIM
I have posted this before, but will do so again in the spirit of Dodge.
This is me and a Charger SRT-8.....
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=MOV01074.flv
10/23/08 | 12:26 PM
#28
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 30, 2008
Posts: 721
Likes: 2
From: Pacific NW USA
Excellent Racing! 
Not to many have raced (and beaten
) an SRT8 yet...
I think you should put a tripod on your mod list though!
Not to many have raced (and beaten
) an SRT8 yet...I think you should put a tripod on your mod list though!
1, Kenne Bell 2.4, intercooled
2. 12 PSI
3. 11.42 * 118.92 or 11.43 @ 117.8 were my last two runs on an 88 degree day.
4. around 1250 feet
5. Yes a worthy "Challenger", lets see...
Here is a video a race with a "Challenger":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX3muykSCIM
2. 12 PSI
3. 11.42 * 118.92 or 11.43 @ 117.8 were my last two runs on an 88 degree day.
4. around 1250 feet
5. Yes a worthy "Challenger", lets see...
Here is a video a race with a "Challenger":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX3muykSCIM
10/23/08 | 12:56 PM
#29
Super Boss Lawman Member
Joined: January 17, 2006
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 3
From: Temecula,CA
My boost gauge hits about 9-10 but I do not know the exact number. 11's don't sound too out of reach for me..
10/23/08 | 01:59 PM
#30
10/23/08 | 02:43 PM
#31
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Joined: November 14, 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 8
From: Pacific NW USA
I didn't get to see the Challenger R/T run, but nearly as much torque as the SRT-8, so with traction I would think it could run low/mid 13's at 103-105 mph???
The new Challenger is certainly a cool looking car, but slower than my 07 GT.
10/23/08 | 10:31 PM
#32
Team Mustang Source
Joined: September 14, 2005
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
I'll bite....
1. What blower you have, innercooler or non. Whipple HO Gen II, Intercooled
2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size). 10lb
3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me. Best 1/8th was 8.3 still getting used to the DRs and launching correctly
4. Elevation if you know it. no, sorry
5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger.....(in a controlled environment..of course...) LEO_06GT but that's it. Every other car I raced was a 6 sec 1/8th mile car
1. What blower you have, innercooler or non. Whipple HO Gen II, Intercooled
2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size). 10lb
3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me. Best 1/8th was 8.3 still getting used to the DRs and launching correctly
4. Elevation if you know it. no, sorry
5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger.....(in a controlled environment..of course...) LEO_06GT but that's it. Every other car I raced was a 6 sec 1/8th mile car
10/24/08 | 11:19 PM
#33
Member
Joined: April 30, 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Paxton 2200 with air/air intercooler here. I don't know the amount of boost but it's at 430rwhp. I have ran against a c6 from a roll and a stop. From the stop I got him by a little more than a lenght up to the top of third. From the roll I got him by about a lenght and a half up to the top of third and was still pulling on him when I shut down. This was the LS2 vette.
10/30/08 | 08:40 AM
#35
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: February 24, 2005
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 22
From: Delray Beach , FL
There are , but they're probably like me and haven't raced at the track or have the information you wanted. I only have HP and TQ numbers which you said you weren't interested in , but here they are anyway. I have an intercooled MagnaCharger running 8.5 PSI boost with 90mm CAI , axial backs , FFRP X-pipe and 373 gears. Steeda did the install and tune and we got 430 RWHP and 400 RWTQ , the torque curve is more like a flat line than a curve. I had to put LCA and relocation brackets on to get rid of the wheel hop. I have 285 Falken tires on the back and 1st and 2nd gear will spin and fish tail badly , so I have to let off to get any traction. I could put some tires with better traction on , but I like the Falkens because they're quiet and last a long time. I've had it a little over a year now and it still puts a smile on my face when I kick it ...
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