Redrocket06

Hey all with superchargers, I want to go FI next year. I have my mind set on a Kenne Bell, but the centi's are a little less costly. I want to use it for street/strip and have done alot of research. Boost for boost the PD and centrifugal blowers put down almost identical E.T. times, but the PD blowers seem to have a higher mph, by 2-5+mph. If all I wanted it for was the strip I would be 100% happy with a centri, but I worry the lower mph would hurt if I got into a foot race......

For the PD I have my eye on the Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6L, and for the centrifugal I am looking at the Paxton kit from Brenspeed or a Procharger.

Can you guys help me out and post:

1. What blower you have, innercooler or non.
2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size).
3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me.
4. Elevation if you know it.
5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger.....(in a controlled environment..of course...)

krnpimpsta

really? you only want 1/4 mile stats? i would think tire brand/type and suspension will make a much bigger difference than blower brand for that...

Redrocket06

If people put down their 1/4 mile stats that will include the short time, and anything slower than around a 2.0 will tell me traction problems. Plus mph has little to do with traction. Tires and suspention will not give you 100+ hp/tq. As for blower brand it is all a pov. I listed the specific brands so people with those would coment on how they like it, or to say avoid it.

Black GT500

Sounds like you already know what you need to know...

Roots/twin Screw = More instant low RPM torque = more fun on the street
Centrifugal = Less instant low RPM torque = possibly less fun on the street


Roots/twin Screw = More instant low RPM torque = less traction at the drag strip
Centrifugal = Less instant low RPM torque = more traction at the drag strip


Roots/twin Screw = More money
Centrifugal = Less money


My Specifications:
Engine: Iron 5.4 Displacement: 5.4 l / 330 ci
Compression Ratio: 8.4:1
Intake: Aluminum lower with integral air-to-water intercooler
Supercharger: Eaton M122H Roots 8.5 psi
Throttle Body: Dual 60mm
Fuel System: Returnless with twin 220-lph fuel pumps and 47-lb/hr fuel injectors

500 hp at 6,000 rpm and 480 lb-ft of torque at 4,500 rpm.
Way more power than traction, and that is with Goodyear Eagle F1 supercar tires 285/40/18ZR 96W in the rear...

don_w

Good thread! Finally, someone who understands the "value" of dyno numbers!

Here are my responses:

1. What blower you have, innercooler or non.

Kenne Bell 2.4L intercooled

2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size).

15psi on street (91 octane), 18psi at track (100 octane)

3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me.

10.581 @ 128.42, 60' = 1.524, 1/8 = 6.756 @ 102.21, DA=3,711'

4. Elevation if you know it.

See above.

5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger

LOL... Too many to list, but a few of my favorites were a Ford GT, a couple blown GTOs, a few Z06 Vettes, and a whole bunch of old school muscle. And I have about 700 or 800 track videos to documnet virtually all of them. Click the Car Domain link in my sig for all those vids, as well as a complete list of my mods.


And if you are interested in a good comprehensive list of ETs for over 80 S197s, and their respective specs, click HERE.


.

don_w

There are whole lot of us who would disagree. With the proper suspension, tire, and gear selection, traction is not an issue... especially on a well-prepped track.

Redrocket06

Ya, It doesn't matter what your numbers are. I could spend that time and money at the dyno on a night at the track and get a bite to eat.

That list is awsome! But some dont have boost # listed or elevation. OH Well, still nice.

Black GT500

Yeah,
Well I agree it is certainly possible to mitigate traction issues with the proper suspension, tire, and gear selection, if you are building a dedicated drag car and if you get it all right.

I also know plenty of forced induction street SN197's with modified suspensions, gears and drag radials that still have big traction problems.

Sure you can set a street car up to get excellent traction on a well-prepped track, but what you are left with is a street car with poor ride and handling.

For a street car with street tires and suspension, what I posted holds true...

tom281

1. What blower you have, innercooler or non.

Saleen blower with upgraded heat exchanger, Saleen water pump pulley, Saleen ultimate intake kit, 3.2 pulley. Supporting mods are 39lb injectors, GT500 fuel system, shorties, offroad H, Borlas, 4.10s, aluminum shaft, twin screw cams from Comp Cams/Brenspeed.

2. Amount of boost (in psi not pully size).

3.2" pulley = 9psi. On a cold day, I've hit 10.2 but 99% of the time it's in the 9s.

3. 1/4 mile stats, dyno # don't mean much to me.

11.74 at 119, this is without the cams, ultimate intake, and new clutch.

4. Elevation if you know it.

Around 750 feet. www.munciedrag.com

5. Any run ins with a worthy challenger.....(in a controlled environment..of course...)

Not much around here to play with, I've never street raced anyone. Small town, people know the car.

You know my story, I've had a centri kit and changed to the Saleen. There are things that I miss about the centri, however there are things that I absolutely love about the twin screw and if I had to do it over again, it would be twin screw first and foremost.

don_w

My response to that is that anyone who is having traction problems (even on the street), did not properly plan or execute their build. They most likely fell into the "more-power-is-always-better" trap. It's commonplace for that to happen. They throw money at the engine, and forget the rest of the car.

So someone has gobs of power, but can't use it. I think that is called a dyno queen.

don_w

We're still trying to fill in as many of the blanks as we can, but the vast majority would not know the DA anyway. So, that's tough to track.

SONICBOOST

Paxton 2200 with air/air intercooler here. I don't know the amount of boost but it's at 430rwhp. I have ran against a c6 from a roll and a stop. From the stop I got him by a little more than a lenght up to the top of third. From the roll I got him by about a lenght and a half up to the top of third and was still pulling on him when I shut down. This was the LS2 vette.

SONICBOOST

....

subzero05

I have the Vortech cooled system pushing 10psi max boost and it made 432RWHP with a very safe tune. I have had it on the car for over 10k miles and no issues whatsoever!. I love the kit. I am at sea level . A worthy run in with a Challenger you say?..Hmm, well it should be stated I have just recently purchased said worthy SRT8 Challenger and it is currently under the knife getting a Vortech kit installed on that one as well...

Five Oh Brian

I believe I have all the info you're requesting for my particular setup...

My car: 07 GT automatic coupe. 3600 lb race weight (includes me). 100% stock engine, exhaust, and suspension. Only mods besides blower are 4.10 gears, 4,500 rpm stall converter, and drag radials.

My blower: Vortech V-2 SQ S-trim. Non-intercooled basic system. 39# FRPP injectors, dual fuel pumps, FRPP 3V0 spark plugs. Makes 5.8 psi boost when the converter flashes (4,500 rpm's) and increases very linearly to 10.5 psi at my 6,400 rpm shift points. Car put down just 351 rwhp and a lame 304 rwtq on a Mustang Chassis Dyno, but my timeslips tell the real story...

Best ET: 1.80 60', 5.12 330', 7.89 @ 90.18 1/8 mile, and 12.34 @ 111.93 1/4 mile.

Elevation: 250' above sea level. Density Altitude ranging from 500-700' above sea level.

Worthy run-ins: Plenty at the track. None on the street. Ran dead even with a pair of 2008 Corvettes last saturday at the track. Both were automatics, and both of them ran 12.30's (although they trapped higher by a few mph). One of them was a Hertz rental car (ZHZ)!

Thoughts: While the instant torque of a roots or twin screw is appealing, I'm quite satisfied with the Vortech's performance. Easy to drive, very streetable, 24+ mpg on the highway, plenty of power for a daily driver that doubles as a weekend warrior. This car is easy to launch without drama as the blower builds boost as the rpm's climb, which must be easier on the drivetrain, as well.

Cost specific to supercharger: $3716 for the entire kit, $899 for professional install, $450 for custom dyno tuning and several tunes for different circumstances, $140 for the spark plugs. Total outlay = $5,205.

Redrocket06

Nice. How much boost? 8-9? Those LS2 Vettes are quick, mid 12's. Do you think you run in the 11's?

Redrocket06

You know I have your stats in my spreadsheet I have been making compairing PD vs. centri's. For a non cooled kit 12.3 is very nice. My # 1 choice is the Kenne Bell, but a centri might be a better choice (for me). The more boost you run the better they perform all around (I have a final goal of mid 10's 700+- hp built DD). And on the plus side my wife seems to drive my baby more than me, so a more mild bottom end will give her less trouble, expecially in the rain. I would hate for her to get wraped up in a pole because the tq whipped the rear around from a PD.




Keep'em coming guys! I'm loven it!!

don_w

Just so you know, you don't need 700 hp to hit 10s. I'm in the mid 10s with under 575 at the wheels. And you defintely don't need 700 on the street. That could be a handful.

Five Oh Brian

Don, you're at a high DA track, so I calculated how much power is needed to run 10.50's in a 3,500 # package at sea level. Dean, if you're anywhere near sea level, looks like you could get away with as little as 530 rwhp to run 10.50's @ 130.

don_w

FYI... my car is 3800 lbs with me in it. What a pig. hahaha