I revised my order this morning and deleted the UTCA017. I decided to get the MMR Anihilator Adjustable Upper Control Arm instead. I hope the road noise increase won't be too bad.
I also added UCM001 Upper Control Mount and CAB004 Control Arm Relocation Bracket after I read about how lowering alters a vehicle's Instant Center over at Baseline Suspensions. I know an inch probably isn't worth worrying about but I think I have noticed a slight decrease in traction.

 

I almost hate to point this out, but none of this stuff matters under hard acceleration (street or strip). Look at 169stangs' launch photo. The front lifts, the rear squats, and all your careful adjustments no longer apply. Even the pinion angle (some guys worry about it) changes between static ride height and hard acceleration. If your over-size tires intrude into the wheel well, then yeah, you will want to fix that. Otherwise, relax and enjoy your ride.

 

I'm selling my springs! Any takers?

 

I called eibach the other day and spoke to one of their Techs about the installation of the eibach pro kit for an 05 mustang affecting the suspension adversly. He stated to me that the springs alone are designed to work with the factory specs and that the most you will need to do is align your vehicle.

After reading all the posts here though i am aprehensive about installing the kit if i am going to need to buy a panhard rod, camber plates, control arm relocation kit. etc.

my biggest concern is clearance under load, especially on the rear springs since my tires are even with the wheel wells.

does anyone have wheel well rub on hard acceleration?

This is the best forum I have ever been on, everyone is extremely friendly and helpful!

thanks for all the info fellas!!

 

Just had my alignment done yesterday: Camber is at -1.8 and can't be reduced anymore. Factory spec is -.75 +/- .50. If the Ford kit allows another .75 adjustment, that'll get me down to -1.05 which won't be too bad. Need to find out how much for the Ford kit vs. the Steeda camber kit...

 

Glad I read this thread, rethinking my thoughts of lowering. I like to watch 2 Guys Garage and I have seen them do things like this. They always caution about how even the most minor change can throw off a cars suspension geometry.

 

Yes, it's definitely more money than just the cost of the springs and the labor to install them. With that much camber, it sure does pull into the corners nice. But it'll make me have to put new wider tires on it sooner than my pocketbook will like! The stuff on the back end you can get away with not touching, except the adjustable panhard but only if you mount wider rubber. The excess negative camber up front will eat the insides of your tires quicker than you'd probably like. So factor in Ford's camber kit, labor and an alignment to set it up. I felt only a little bump-steer from it being lowered.

 

Great thread.

Question: I lowered by 96GT (originally Eibach but switched to Steeda because the Eibach was too bone jarring) and added adjustable Koni shocks and larger tires (255s all around to 275s). .
Looks good but I've never liked the change from stock as far as the way it drives. Hard to describe, but you have to keep your hands on the wheel because the steering has a mind of its own (not always left or right but it get into a "groove" it wants to follow).

Will camber plates improve the steering, or is this just to reduce the wear on the tires.

I'm about due for some new tires and am considering going back to the smaller factory size, just see if this will get me back to a better driving experience.

 

Mark, have you had an alignment report done on it?
The camber plates allow a wider range of camber adjustment when setting up the alignment. They in themselves do not change the steering characteristics. Lowering the car adds negative camber. How much depends on the design of the front end. I believe it also affects the toe-in.
My '93 with stock rubber (225/16) and stock suspension would follow the ruts real bad. I had an alignment done where I bought it from in '96 but didn't really help much. Took it to another place a few years later (only drive it about 3000/yr) and they increased the toe-in for me, within specs, which helped. Year before last I had new rubber put on it (same size but Goodyear instead of Michelin) and another alignment and the "gets into a groove" problem is all but gone. Not sure if the new tread depth, different brand or alignment or some combination of those corrected the problem. I had one front end specialist recommend a new steering rack about 5 years ago. She's got around 42,000 miles now.
Smaller tires will likely lessen the effect but I'd get an alignment report and see where it sits with factory specs, if you're going to keep it lowered. I'd bet you've probably got too much camber and not enough toe-in.
If you're into reading about caster, camber, toe-in and other suspension stuff, here's one link for you: http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

There's lots of information on the 'net, if you have the time to search and read. I use google a lot! I've even used it to lookup those long distance phone number on my cell bill that I can't remember calling...Partshopper...LMPerformance...Northcoast ...MMR...JLT...Stainless Works...

 

Daniel,

Thanks for the info! Right now I've got Kuhmo tires. I'll get an alignment report and see what they say. I got an alignment when I got it lowered and had the new tires put on. I remember the mechanic telling me that he could not fully align it but got it as close as he could.

 

I lowered my car 1" with Steeda sport springs. Went to an alignment shop, had them aligned, no problems. The alignment shop I used didn't use any electronics or factory specs. They are old school and use alignment equipment that gives you that makes it right. I've never heard of needing camber plates to get the proper alignment.
I've never looked at the rearend to see if it was aligned or not. I'll probably be going with a panhard bar for race purposed anyways. Interesting thread.

 

Here is one thing to consider... if you are lowering your car just for looks then the factory specs are ok. If you want better handling and more response though, the factory specs are horrible. They are trying to maximize the life of the tires while making the car less apt to pull back and forth over the crown of the road. If you want better handling typically you want more camber, as much caster as you can get, and a little toe in. My suggestion is for someone to call Saleen and find out what they are aligning their cars too. My guess it's somewhere around
-1.5deg camber
1/16" toe in
and as much caster (no adjustment) as you can get

If someone gets a chance to call Saleen and post, that would be helpful. Keep in mind though that you sacrafice a little tire life for the better handling and road feel.

Mike Freedman

 

Just incase you guys did not read the prior part of this, the reason you need either camber adjustment bolts or camber plates is because from factory, the camber cannot be adjusted on the mustang. FORD did not make it adjustable so you need to slot the opening on the strut to adjust camber.

 

Well I finally got my car on Saturday and now its time to install all the parts I've accumulated over the past 8 months while waiting for my new GT.
I just set up an appt (next Thursday - 6/23) at JPC in Glen Burnie Md. to have them install my Eibach pro kit, and I wanted to make sure that I could get my car aligned back to normal afterwards, so I called the Ford part dept. I was asking about the camber bolts, and I got a part # of 4R3B-3B236-AB. This is for a complete camber kit for the 05 stang. $111.00 Think I will order the kit and have it installed just to be sure. My car is a daily driver and I dont need any strange tire wear problems. Cant wait till its done. They're going to install the underdrive pulleys, and C&L CAI kit at the same time. VRRRRRMMMMM!

 

FYI, got a call from Ford, seems the camber kit is back ordered and they dont know for how long.
Had my car lowered, and just like most of you, I found out that the alignment is close but not exact. Now Im just waiting for the camber kit.
Anyone know of any aftermarket camber kits other than STEEDA's.

 

FYI The Ford Kit is on Terminal Backorder! I have Had three KITS on Order for over 90 Days! Seems They can not get the Components! FYI

kc

 

If I were just lowering the rear would I need any kind of camber plates?

I'm assuming I would just need the panhard bar.

I'm probably going with the Steeda sport springs in the rear but leaving the front stock.

 

You would just need the adjustable panhard rod.

 

Thanks John

 

I just Recieved My Backordered Camber Kits! One for a Customer 2 up for Grabs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


kc