Just so everyone knows, if you don't already, I installed the Eibach Pro kit. I know I needed an aligment but nobody would touch it but FORD. They tried to align it back to factory spec cut can't do it because there is not enough camber adjustment. I will need to get a camber adjusting kit before I can get it aligned.

Is this a big deal? You bet it is. If I don't get this done the inside of both front tires will be bald before the summer even gets here.

 

darn John, That stinks the big one man! Sorry to hear that. I was going to install mine this weekend but I guess I'll have to wait and see. I guess I can go with the Steeda springs anyone have any experience with those? Camber kit needed? Panhard needed?

 

I just had the Eibach springs put in this last saturday, by les schwab. The car seems to be just fine, dosen't pull one way or the other.
Nor did les schwab mention anything to me about a camber adjusting kit. They did align it for me. Car seems to be fine.

Adrenaline your kinda of scaring me here, is this something that I should be concerned about.

Nick

 

I'm with you on that Nick. I guess Schwab didn't see anything wrong during the alignment...

 

my car does not pull either. According to Ford the camber plates need to be installed. I sent an email to Steeda asking them if the camber plates are necessary if I used their springs and their answer simply was "yes, in order for proper alignment you need to install camber plates". The tech at Ford even showed me in the 2005 manual how to install the plates if the camber cannot be adjusted properly. They need to notch out the lower hole in the strut and install the plates and new bolts. The kit I am going with is just from FORD so they are covering it under warranty and a lot cheaper than steeda's kit. It give +/- .75 degree which is all I need. My front tires are out -.7 degree

 

That's kewl that the dealer's going to cover that under warranty!! I didn't think they would cover a suspension modification?? I must be wrong.

 

Ooh, adrenalin, what about the Panhard, is that going to need to be replaced with that Eibach drop? Just want to make sure I have all my ducks in row before I go installing the kit...

 

I had originally talked to the dealer about this and he pretty much said the same thing, if you lower it, you need an alignment AND aftermarket camber plates. I also received an answer back from a Steeda rep and here is what he had to say..." From: "Gus Irizarry" <gus@steeda.com>
Date: 03/14/2005 11:39AM
Subject: RE: lowering springs

The 2005 springs do not require any additional components. An alignment
is required after installation. In most cases there is more than enough
adjustment range in the factory setup for proper alignment. Once in a
while due to factory variance you may get a case where there isnt enough
range to get the proper alignment. This is the exception not the rule.
In these cases our camber adjustment kit will correct the issue.". I guess AD has an "exceptional" car. Just proves that it's still early out there. I'm glad you got the dealer to cover it under warranty cuz your right, steeda's kit isn't cheap. I will have to see if mine will do the same before I go and buy the lowering kit. You know, It's starting to look pretty good the way it is.....

 

John

If your car is running -.7 camber that is not too bad. My 99' GT was set to -1.0 & I would get close to 50K out of a set of tires. I did rotate the tires when I serviced the car. I have run street cars with as much as -2.0 camber & the tires wore for the most part fairly even.

Its the toe that really effects your tire wear. Depending what you want your car to do some negative camber & a little toe out will make the car turn in a handle nice. I assume you want a good handling car as you did the spring kit.

 

Well so far, although it is still early, my car feels fine without the chamber kit. I think les Schwab would've told me of any problems if they had them, while aligning my vehicle.

I guess time and mileage on my tires will be the true test.

nick

 

Adrenalin,
Can you get us a part number for the Ford kit? I'm really suprised that they are covering it under warrenty do they know you had the springs replaced? I'm really glad to hear they are doing that for you regardless.

 

ok guys I answered my own question the part number is 4R33-2B236-AA

as per ford instructions

NOTE: If camber adjustment is necessary to resolve a vehicle alignment issue, then slotting the strut at the lower mounting plate and installing cam bolts is an acceptable method. This procedure should not be routinely performed with all alignments and only after all other possible sources have been inspected and corrected as necessary.

Remove the strut and spring assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01 .
Using a suitable grinding tool, enlarge the strut-to-wheel spindle lower mounting holes as indicated by the etchings in the strut lower mount.
Do not enlarge the holes any more than indicated by the etchings on the strut mount.
Remove any burrs.
Clean and paint any exposed metal.

Install the strut and spring assembly using cam bolts (4R33-2B236-AA) and new nuts in place of the regular strut-to-wheel spindle bolts and flag nuts. For additional information, refer to Section 204-01 .
Do not tighten the cam bolts until the alignment has been corrected.
Using the cam bolts, adjust the front camber until it is within the correct specifications.
Tighten the nuts to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).

 

Here are the alignment specs per Ford as well


Alignment Specifications Item LH RH Total/ Split
Front
Caster 7.1° ± 0.50° 7.1° ± 0.50° 0° ± 0.70°
Camber -0.75° ± 0.50° -0.75° ± 0.50° 0° ± 0.70°
Toe (positive value is toe-in, negative value is toe-out) — — 0.10 ± 0.20°

 

Adrenalin has some big wheels and tires on his car. Does this make a difference?

 

No tire size dosent have an effect on that, the only thing tire size will do is magnify wear problems due to the alignmnet being out.

 

how much of a drop did you do? will i have problems getting the car aligned if i only do a 1 inch drop in the front?

 

Mike, I used the Eiback kit so that was 1 1/4" drop in the front.

I know some of you say it should be "fine" because you rotated your tires but I can't rotate mine, different sizes.

Ford does know I lowered it because I told them "I need an alignment because I lowered the car and put wider tires on it".

When you look at the front of the car you can tell that the tires are not aligned properly. From factory the car always slightly pulled to the right (just incase you fall asleep at the wheel it will pull you off the road). Now the car pulls slightly to the left.

Nick, just because your car "feels" fine does not mean it is. You may want to bring your car into the FORD dealership and just ask them to check the alignment because you think it may be off a bit. I know at my dealer they don't care if it is lowered or not and would have inspected it for free.

 

I lowered mine and it does need camber plates- also it could use an adjustable pan hard bar- ones coming. If you look closely, when it’s lowered, the left rear tire sticks out past the fender about a 1/4 of an inch while the right rear tire tucks in under the fender. I’m told that the adjustable pan hard bar will re-center the axle and adjust the tires so that they are centered to the fenders. Also, my stang doesn’t pull, but it is out of alignment. Camber plates are coming...besides- it will handle better with proper alignment...

 

I am about to order the steeda springs, but when reading this thread I start to worry that this might not be enough. Looking at Steeda website, they have following parts available on order :

555-8096 Billet Camber Adjusters $189.95
These CNC machined billet beauties mount directly to the struts; supplied with a variety of hardened steel inserts, giving you up to a full 3° of camber adjustment.

and

555-8108 X5 Ball Joint $99.95
Any time you alter the height of your ride, as you do when you install lowering springs (like our Steeda Sport Springs), you upset the steering geometry. You can easily bring your front end back into spec with a set of our X5 ball joints. Restore roll center geometry and lower you car's center of gravity.
NOTE: Require 18" or larger wheels to clear at full rebound.

darn.... lowering this car gets expensive

What would you guys do ? only get the springs or full package ?

Thanks

 

After reading Mikes post I took a look at my car and my tires are out of whack as well. The drivers side rear tire is even with the fender whereas the passenger side is in by about 1/4. I had someone push down on the trunk so the wheels were closer to the fender so I could get a better measurement. Guess I will look at the adjustable panhard bar as well.