I just checked out my rear tires and they look fine, upon further investigation of the front two though, I did notice that they look a little slanted, not much though I had to really look closely to tell.

I stopped by the dealer to set an oppointment for the rattle on cold starts (missing bolts on the bell housing). I asked them about checking my alignment. Once the guy noticed I lowered my car he told me to forget about it. He told me that this particular dearship would no longer cover my suspension.

Oh well I guess I'll have to try the next ford dearship down the road.

Nick

 

Gotta love how some places they are jerks. They have absolutely nothing to gain that way.

 

So that's what caused what I saw at FFW in Orlando on an 05 GT that was lowered with 19's on it - one rear tire stuck out about 1/4" or so from the body while the other side was flush. You guys are right - lowering the car just got a whole lot more expensive than a set of springs I hope you folks who've already lowered yours are able to get it resolved quickly and inexpensively

 

never knew a simple 1 inch drop might be that involved and expensive guess im going to need to do some major research before buying some springs , thanks guys for your help

 

A lot of people just let it go. You add the springs and deal with the problems. The correct way however in my estimation is that you should add camber plates and an adjustable panhard bar to any lowered 05 Stang.

 

Guess I will add those to my list then!

 

I was at a trade show recently and was speaking with Joe Granatelli and later with Dario from Steeda. I explained the problem that I saw with the rear axle on my Mustang and both independently told me that I needed an adjustable panhard bar and camber plates to fix the problems from lowering the car. I know many will just do the springs and not worry about uneven tire wear. Also, some dont want to maximize the handling potential of the car but to do it right it sounds like you need to add these two items.

 

I was talking to a mechanic and he said that lowering springs wouldn't affect the rear wheels/tires, only the front. Therefore, I doubt if you need the panhard bar. Don't waste your money if you don't have to. Camber adjuster plates should handle the alignment problems by themselves, along with the alignment. If anybody has any input to this, feel free as I'm not a mechanic but I won't rush into anything either.

 

If you get under the back of your car, look at the panhard bar and imagine its travel path. As it moves up and down (forming an arc) you can see how this would push and pull on the rear end. Since the car is lowered and panhard angle has changed, so must the length.
I also installed springs and now must make these other changes. It was part of the overall plan but I was not planning on these parts this soon.

 

This is getting frustrating.

1. Buy springs
2. Might need to buy an adjustable lower control arm
3. Need a camber kit
4. Need a adj panhard bar

5. I need a friggin drink! :bang:

 

Like some of us said, some people just install springs and some people want to do it right and some people want it perfect. They all cost different amounts but this is how I look at it. My front tires, rubber only, cost me over $700.00 for the pair. Install just the springs and fork out $700/year to replace the tires or spend an additional $500.00 now and have tires that will last me years.

 

This is what BMR says about the panhard rod,

"By nature, a panhard rod will alter rear end position as ride height changes. This makes it necesarry to use an adjustable panhard rod when lowering your vehicle as it allows you to re-center the rear end. Adjustable panhard rods also become a "must-have" part if you are trying to fit the widest tires possible in the wheelwell. Available standard in your color choice of red or black powdercoat, additional colors also available by special order."

I guess I'll go with the BMR adjustable panhard rod and the Steeda camber plates.

"Driving a 05 Mustang with Elibach springs, wide tires, Steeda camber plates and BMR adjustable panhard rod, PRICELESS!"

 

So this brings me to a new question. Rich, I already know what panhard rod you want to go with so, the rest of ya, what are you going with and why? I am still trying to decide which one to use and where to order it from.

 

I plan to go with all Steeda. I think BMR has some nice stuff and at a better price but everything is Steeda on my car so why change now.

 

Ok guys I've finally put together my game plan for lowering my stang. Here is what I'm going to do. (i'd like to thank 2005mustangGt for his earlier post on cutting his springs, his results on the amount to take off each spring convinced me to go this route)
1) Order replacement stock springs (front set $60.18 rear set $64.60), and cut them. One coil off the front and 2 off the rear, That should drop the front 1-1 1/4" and the rear 1 3/4-2" This will level out the car.
2) Next I'm going to order the camber kit from Ford $76.72 is will give me up to .75 degree adjustment (should be plenty for a 1 1/4" drop in the front,
3) Order an adjustable panhard bar from BMR (part number PHR006 $130.00)
4) Finally the steeda control arm Relocation kit 69.95
The control arm kit should bring the front roll center back into Ford spec.

So it adds up to 401.45 plus shipping and plus an alignment. not bad. You could save 124.78 and not buy a replacement set of springs but I have been getting a replacement for anything that I do.

This should get me the ride height I want (level). And provide me with the ability to align both front and rear.

The only other things I might consider is the bump steer kits from steeda but that I would add later if necessary. and the Control arm relocation brackets from BMR these would correct the instant centerline on the car(probably not necessary unless you plan on drag racing your car)

By the way the prices for the Ford parts I got through Kevin (05stangkc).

For anyone thinking about lowering their car I strongly recommened numbers 2,3,4. I used to be a alignment tech in my former life and can tell you; you need at least those parts to do it the correct way IMHO. Take it for what it's worth.

***** John to answer your question on the panhard bar I have their adjustable lower control arms and they are top shelf products very well made.

 

EXACTLY - I am already planning my switch from having my brother install the springs to finding a good shop around here to do the whole shebang - I'd rather spend the extra $$ and have the job done RIGHT than worry about saving a few bucks and having potential problems down the road..

 

Here is the reply I got from steeda when requesting if anything else than the springs should be ordered when lowering the car :

darn.... it gets confusing :angry:

 

Anyone have a link to the BMR website?

 

BMR Fabrication

 

I cut my front spring today. While it would probably be fine I don’t like how the spring sits on the perch now. In fact at one point the spring rotated a little bit and I tried to get it back and it slipped off the perch. So I've switched to plan B I ordered Eibach Pro springs today.