mine will be lowered today...i'll keep you posted :=)

 

I had my alignment checked 2 days ago and I need the kits as well.

 

If you lower the vehicle an inch, the axle will shift about 1/4" to the left if you don't shorten the panhard by about .23" ( I revived my trig from high school: a^2 + b^2 = c^2 ) I guess it's more of an issue with wider tires and clearance than stability but a stiffer panhard w/urethane bushings or rod ends is more likely to keep things where they should be when cornering hard.

 

It would be interesting to look at the rear axle centering on several '05 GTs with stock springs ( no one, including me, thinks to check that BEFORE lowering their car). I just took a 40" string anchored at one end and measured the length change over a 6" arc (3" from perpendicular). The change was tiny- less than .125".

I have the Pro Kits, and there is a bias to the left - about .188".

 

An adjustable panhard bar is not necessary if you don't mind having the rear end off center a bit. Since my tires are a lot wider and line up with the wheelwells you can tell that they are not centered with the car, that is why I will be installing the adjustable panhard bar. If you stick with tires that are inside the fender like the factory rims then it is not that obvious.

 

Is the panhard bar about 40" in length, or is longer?
How high up from horizontal does it attach to chassis (stock ride height)?

 

The panhard rod is very close to 40" C to C. The right (frame) side is approx 3" higher than the axle side, so the rod goes closer to horizontal with shorter springs. To center the axle, you only need to move the axle 1/2 the difference...in my case .094" ( the thickness of the metal part of your key). If the axle is off-center 1/4", then you would move it 1/8"..etc. It is because these numbers are so small that I'm curious about how close to center the axle is at stock ride height.

 

So with a stock ride height, the frame-mount-point to chassis-mount-point height differential is only 3"? I thought it would be much more than that.
Going from 3" to 2" will only shift the axle to the left by .06267". To bring it back to where it was, the panhard would only have to be shortened from 40" to 39.93745109"...only .062549"...about 1/16".

It's probably not centered to begin with!

 

You're absolutely right. Mine (stock still) is biased to the left, probably 1/4 inch. It's noticeable to me, not to anyone else. So I'm assuming, if I go with the ProKit (which I'm seriously thinking about), I'll DEFINATELY need the panhard fix.

Correct???

 

Let's try this again. Guys, I, as others have already done, lowered my car with the kit. You can do as much math as you want but all you have to do is look at a car that has been lowered. The back end is shifted to the left by close to 1/2", so yes, to center the tires you need to install an adjustable panhard rod. If you don't will any damage occur to the car, I doubt it, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that they are not centered expecially after it has been lowered and you install wider tires like I did.

 

I agree! But I think the point has also been made than even without lowering, you may want an adjustable panhard anyway. Lowering and wider tires pretty much guarantee you'll need one.

BTW, which one have you decided on? I'm looking at Spohn's MS-106, Pro3i's Billet Aluminum Adjustable and Steeda's. Spohn's has one spherical rod end and one polyurethane bushing, Pro3i's has 2 rod ends and Steeda's is 2 polyuretahne bushings.

 

I have not decided on which one I want to get yet. I guess anything is better than the factory one, right?

 

Yes, anything adjustable should be better but I understand that cheap rod ends can soon start to make noise. Which is why I'm hesitant to go for the Pro3i...it might be too cheap. I like the idea of Spohn (and BMR's) with combination ends; QA1 spherical rod on one end & polyurethane on the chassis end for less cabin noise than a dual rod-ended version (Pro3i). Steeda's adjustable has bushings on both ends and is little bit more expensive ($152) than the Spohn ($145). Decisions, decisions...

Edit: I just found this interesting article maximummotorsports.com panhard. It talks about the 4-link in the '99-04 but I think some concepts follow over to the 3-link. Interesting what they have to say about NOT using urethane in the upper control arms. Wonder how that applies to our upper 3rd link? I was considering the Steeda adjustable 555-4105 but now might look at the BMR UTCA018. I wanted the Steeda adjustable to further reduce wheel hop and to adjust pinion angle as I got their billet LCAs which aren't adjustable.

 

I have the Steeda springs and their Adj Panhard Rod installed. Car looks 10x meaner and rides real smooth... just gotta be careful not to scrape. The rear end sits perfectly and I do not see any noticible camber issues. I'll keep checking tire wear to make sure.

 

John,

I finally decided and just ordered the following from LMPerformance:
1 - 555-3305 - Steeda Underdrive Pulleys for 2005 Mustang GT
1 - PHR006 - BMR Tubular Adjustable Panhard Rod
1 - UTCA017 - BMR Tubular Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing

Note: everyone's prices for 555-3305 seem to be jumping from $189.95 to $249.95, even www.PartShopper.com!
LMPerformance's are still $189.95. The other option was SHM's UD pullies for 169.95 but I wasn't sure how they compared to Steeda's.

 

If these are official Ford numbers, then my car is within spec without camber plates: LH - -1.25, RH - -1.0, Split - .125. I've run more negative camber than that on purpose.

I'll still keep an eye on tire wear. Thanks, FordRacing.

 

If these are official Ford numbers, then my car is within spec without camber plates: LH - -1.25, RH - -1.0, Split - .125. I've run more negative camber than that on purpose.

I'll still keep an eye on tire wear. Thanks, FordRacing.
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No problem,
Those are the spec that are in the service manual.

 

John,
I bought the steeda bar and I wish I would have bought the BMR one. The steeda bar you have to install then check the adjustments. Then remove the bar to change it. I had to play with mine 4 times before getting it adjusted.
The BMR bar has the adjustment where you can get to it without removing the bar from the car. I have the BMR LCA and they are a real quility piece. I should have followed my gut but I wanted it sooner and now I wish I would have just bought the BMR's

Gordon

 

Gordon, thanks for the info. I have not placed an order yet so in a few months I will order something.

 

I think the Spohn units look pretty good as well. They offer one with one spherical and one poly bushing so you can have something in between the standard street/strip or all-out-strip models. Same for their LCAs.
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