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what to reinforce for ULTRA RELIABLE forced induction?

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Old 7/2/07, 08:48 PM
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what to reinforce for ULTRA RELIABLE forced induction?

Hey guys, I don't even know the VIN to my future stang yet, but I've realized that I will eventually want more power.

What engine parts would have to be upgraded in order to have a VERY RELIABLE supercharged/intercooled setup? A setup that puts out about 500-600 crank hp?

By "very reliable," I mean ideally it would be just as reliable as a 100% stock car. But if that's unreasonable to ask for, then how about just "as reliable as that 115hp/5psi ROUSHcharger that comes with a 3 year drivetrain warranty"? This will be my only car & daily driver for the next 4-8 years, so I would ideally want to avoid grenading at any cost.

(There was another similar thread here, but I didn't want to threadjack. I'm not even sure what threadjacking means, but I'm a newb and wanted to play it safe.)
Old 7/2/07, 09:31 PM
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If you are looking for 500-600 FI horsepower... the very minimum you need is to install good forged rods and pistons.. if you want it to be real reliable, I'd go with a forged crank also. And, definately an intercooled blower..

You will need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump to handle the fuel needs. Of course, a new custom tune...

Bobby M.
Old 7/3/07, 07:15 AM
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Is there any downside to having forged parts? If an engine had forged internals, without any other mods, would there be any loss of performance? Significant or just noticable?

I ask this because I would like to return the engine visually to stock before selling it way down the road.
Old 7/3/07, 07:29 AM
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one word to sum up what he's asking for.......

Whipple!

complete kit, everything you need (plugs, injectors, fuel pump, thermostat, FRPP Tune, awesome power, and reliable/conservative TUNE! no worries about forged internals...
Old 7/3/07, 08:05 AM
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Well, I have a Whipple on my occasional driver and am looking to beef up my short block. For an everyday for 4-8 year vehicle, either go with the Roushcharger, or buy the best internals. Forged parts will not make a difference to the engine itself, except for strength.
Old 7/3/07, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MaverickMLFD371
one word to sum up what he's asking for.......

Whipple!

complete kit, everything you need (plugs, injectors, fuel pump, thermostat, FRPP Tune, awesome power, and reliable/conservative TUNE! no worries about forged internals...
You're not going to get between 500 and 600 crank hp on a whipple without forged internals.
Old 7/3/07, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MaverickMLFD371
reliable/conservative TUNE!
Hmmm... this may be the first time I've seen anyone call the Whipple tune "conservative".



Originally Posted by krnpimpsta
Is there any downside to having forged parts? If an engine had forged internals, without any other mods, would there be any loss of performance? Significant or just noticable?
Originally Posted by 13 MIKE
Forged parts will not make a difference to the engine itself, except for strength.
Generally speaking, a built shortblock will usually have a lower compression ratio than a stock motor, so in theory it would be less powerful in an equivalent N/A form.



Originally Posted by krnpimpsta
I ask this because I would like to return the engine visually to stock before selling it way down the road.
And I wouldn't recommend spending thousand of dollars on forged internals if you plan on returning it to stock and selling it.



.
Old 7/3/07, 10:41 AM
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That's good advice

It's all about crossing the proverbial 'line' when you go to forged internals/lower compression-it is then designed to be a supercharged-only engine. You either go all the way or go for the most you can with stock internals and a safe tune. As for going back to stock, if you keep the car 5+ years most likely nothing will work on your next stang so you may as well sell it as a complete car.

Roushcharger is obviously the safest choice but doesn't leave you much to go up to. Its more a plug-and-play and leave it alone setup.

KB and Whipple gives you the most flexibility start mild with potential to go wild as funds allow later. Saleen is a little bit of both worlds, but mostly for keeping the stock internals.

And there's always Turbocharging...
Old 7/3/07, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by kevinb120
That's good advice

It's all about crossing the proverbial 'line' when you go to forged internals/lower compression-it is then designed to be a supercharged-only engine. You either go all the way or go for the most you can with stock internals and a safe tune. As for going back to stock, if you keep the car 5+ years most likely nothing will work on your next stang so you may as well sell it as a complete car.

Roushcharger is obviously the safest choice but doesn't leave you much to go up to. Its more a plug-and-play and leave it alone setup.

KB and Whipple gives you the most flexibility start mild with potential to go wild as funds allow later. Saleen is a little bit of both worlds, but mostly for keeping the stock internals.

And there's always Turbocharging...
It will be one of those 3 that I go with when I have the funds, it will be on a stock motor...atleast until it blows up lol...I'll be looking for 400-425 rwhp.
Old 7/3/07, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikes_BLK_GT
I'll be looking for 400-425 rwhp.
Very obtainable goals on the stock rotating assembly.
Old 7/3/07, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for the help, guys.

Would it be cheaper to upgrade my internals from the start - or to repair an engine that has been destroyed as a result of forced induction (I don't know what breaks, but lets assume it's one of the worse outcomes)? If forged internals costs significantly less than the FI parts, then wouldn't it be pretty good insurance against disaster? Or is that stuff pretty expensive?

Also, I would plan on selling the "stock" car at exactly what an unmodified stang should go for at that time, while expecting 25-50% of their original value on all the aftermarket components when sold separately - is that reasonable to expect? (and then.. take a loss on the forged internals)
Old 7/3/07, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13 MIKE http://forums.bradbarnett.net/images...s/viewpost.gif
Forged parts will not make a difference to the engine itself, except for strength.

Generally speaking, a built shortblock will usually have a lower compression ratio than a stock motor, so in theory it would be less powerful in an equivalent N/A form.
Only if that is what you are looking for. You can buy a forged rotating assembly with the same compression ratio as stock. You've got the guy thinking it automatically will have less power.
Old 7/3/07, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 13 MIKE
You can buy a forged rotating assembly with the same compression ratio as stock.
Of course you can buy whatever you want, that's why I specifically said "usually". But for my money, the CR is coming down a few points for a supercharged motor (and it did). For a daily driver on pump gas, that's good insurance.
Old 7/3/07, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by krnpimpsta
I would plan on selling the "stock" car at exactly what an unmodified stang should go for at that time, while expecting 25-50% of their original value on all the aftermarket components when sold separately - is that reasonable to expect? (and then.. take a loss on the forged internals)
Steve... my suggestion for you is to buy one of the Roushchargers or Saleens with intercoolers... you will have around 400 RWH and the stock internals should be OK... don't go above 8 psi boost though. The reason I say that is because it is your DD and you need reliable transportation.

The forged internals are not cheap and the labor to install them will be suggnificant. However, it is best to pay that up front as opposed to doing it after you have blown the motor under FI conditions... Don W. can give you a real good account of the cost for that scenario.

Going with forged internals and FI is money that will be difficult to recover when you go to sell the car, not impossible but difficult, unless you can find someone who has the money and is looking for your particular type of modified mustang. It takes time to fine the right buyer and if you need a quick sale... not good.

Good luck... Bobby M.
Old 7/3/07, 05:59 PM
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If you were going to buy an entire rotating assembly(or short block) to run forced induction-wouldn't it make sense to buy a lower compression ratio so you could run more boost being that they cost the same $$?? Thats like spending $3000 on a stereo with the same wattage as stock...
Old 7/3/07, 07:07 PM
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No, you guys are right. Less compression is the way to go for a high boost situation, i was just pointing out that merely going forged didn't mean you automatically lost some power. He doesn't seem like he knows a lot about engines, i was just clarifying his basic question.
Is there any downside to having forged parts? If an engine had forged internals, without any other mods, would there be any loss of performance? Significant or just noticable?
Old 7/5/07, 02:32 PM
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Ok, thanks for the help. I think I will stick with stock internals & mild FI for this car. (I've got my eye on the '09 stangs as a "mod to **** and don't ever sell" car... 350hp stock and maybe displacement on demand?)

Originally Posted by 13 MIKE
He doesn't seem like he knows a lot about engines,
Truth.

Are there any other "warranty-your-drivetrain" forced induction alternatives to the RoushCharger? My mind is open to turbos too...
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