Turbo questions + install
3/25/13, 08:22 PM
#22
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Yea, I got it installed then I towed it to my mechanic for dyno. He told me the following when he saw the car:
- the oil lines from the oil kit and the connectors are way too thin. The engine needs a lot more oil flow so he will replace those for me with something a bigger in gauge
- some of the lines under the engine need to be tucked in since they are too close to the exhaust pipes
- the connectors for the O2 sensors from the cats are also too close and they need to be moved away. He will move those and drill + weld a couple of bungs on the last piece of the exhaust (y pipe) so I can mount the O2 sensors there and pass emission inspection
- I put some head shield wrap on some of the cooling lines since they are close to the exhaust again and don't want them to melt and then leak coolant
- only the blue spring was left in the wastegate (blue is actually the strongest) and the rest of the extra boost will come from a manual boost controller. I ended up getting the Hallman boost controller (suggested by On3) -
He said the kit overall looks good. He didn't really get why they did not put the exhaust pipe through the passenger side K-member instead of going under. Also that the pipes are a bit low, but they are ok-ish since they lowest part is between the wheels.
I am waiting on those oil lines/connectors and then I will get it on the dyno.
Also one thing they never mention, the oil filter that fits the relocation kit is the old style filter, pre 05 Mustang.
Will update this thread with more info.
- the oil lines from the oil kit and the connectors are way too thin. The engine needs a lot more oil flow so he will replace those for me with something a bigger in gauge
- some of the lines under the engine need to be tucked in since they are too close to the exhaust pipes
- the connectors for the O2 sensors from the cats are also too close and they need to be moved away. He will move those and drill + weld a couple of bungs on the last piece of the exhaust (y pipe) so I can mount the O2 sensors there and pass emission inspection
- I put some head shield wrap on some of the cooling lines since they are close to the exhaust again and don't want them to melt and then leak coolant
- only the blue spring was left in the wastegate (blue is actually the strongest) and the rest of the extra boost will come from a manual boost controller. I ended up getting the Hallman boost controller (suggested by On3) -
He said the kit overall looks good. He didn't really get why they did not put the exhaust pipe through the passenger side K-member instead of going under. Also that the pipes are a bit low, but they are ok-ish since they lowest part is between the wheels.
I am waiting on those oil lines/connectors and then I will get it on the dyno.
Also one thing they never mention, the oil filter that fits the relocation kit is the old style filter, pre 05 Mustang.
Will update this thread with more info.
3/26/13, 08:15 AM
#23
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Join Date: June 28, 2006
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I would recommend checking the oil lines first. The 3v does not need large oil lines due the the high oil pressure we run. You only need an AN-3 line for the inlet but you need at least an AN-10 or 5/8's line for the outlet. Turbo guys, on the 3v, are constantly fighting oil problems, oil smoke in the exhaust due to the oil not going out fast enough and backing up past the seals into the down pipe. Most usually end up running restrictors on the inlet to cut down on the amount of oil coming in.
You won't have as big a problem as some with your JB turbo but BB turbos are a real fight. I finally got tired of it and changed to Comp oil-less turbos on mine.
On the 02 location, they need to be as close to the turbo outlet as you can get them. The turbo takes out so much heat you need them as close as possible, for them to get hot enough. The tuning will be much more difficult if the 02's don't get hot enough to go into closed loop and let the computer control things. I have mine mounted about 10 inches from each turbo outlet, that was as close as I could get them and my tune stays in open loop abut 50% of the time.
Earl
You won't have as big a problem as some with your JB turbo but BB turbos are a real fight. I finally got tired of it and changed to Comp oil-less turbos on mine.
On the 02 location, they need to be as close to the turbo outlet as you can get them. The turbo takes out so much heat you need them as close as possible, for them to get hot enough. The tuning will be much more difficult if the 02's don't get hot enough to go into closed loop and let the computer control things. I have mine mounted about 10 inches from each turbo outlet, that was as close as I could get them and my tune stays in open loop abut 50% of the time.
Earl
3/26/13, 09:03 AM
#24
V6 Member
Thread Starter
I would recommend checking the oil lines first. The 3v does not need large oil lines due the the high oil pressure we run. You only need an AN-3 line for the inlet but you need at least an AN-10 or 5/8's line for the outlet. Turbo guys, on the 3v, are constantly fighting oil problems, oil smoke in the exhaust due to the oil not going out fast enough and backing up past the seals into the down pipe. Most usually end up running restrictors on the inlet to cut down on the amount of oil coming in.
You won't have as big a problem as some with your JB turbo but BB turbos are a real fight. I finally got tired of it and changed to Comp oil-less turbos on mine.
On the 02 location, they need to be as close to the turbo outlet as you can get them. The turbo takes out so much heat you need them as close as possible, for them to get hot enough. The tuning will be much more difficult if the 02's don't get hot enough to go into closed loop and let the computer control things. I have mine mounted about 10 inches from each turbo outlet, that was as close as I could get them and my tune stays in open loop abut 50% of the time.
Earl
You won't have as big a problem as some with your JB turbo but BB turbos are a real fight. I finally got tired of it and changed to Comp oil-less turbos on mine.
On the 02 location, they need to be as close to the turbo outlet as you can get them. The turbo takes out so much heat you need them as close as possible, for them to get hot enough. The tuning will be much more difficult if the 02's don't get hot enough to go into closed loop and let the computer control things. I have mine mounted about 10 inches from each turbo outlet, that was as close as I could get them and my tune stays in open loop abut 50% of the time.
Earl
3/26/13, 04:41 PM
#25
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If you run an AN#10 line to the inlet of that turbo you will turn your car into a smoke making machine. You can rent it out for mosquito repellent work. It's your car and you do what you want, good luck.
Earl
Earl
3/26/13, 05:31 PM
#26
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Nooo... Not those lines... The lines for the oil filter relocation kit... The ones that lead to the oil filter. I kept the thin line to the turbo and the thicker return one that came in the kit
3/26/13, 11:55 PM
#28
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Talked to the mechanic today. He said he got the oil lines in so if all goes well, there is a chance I am getting the car tomorrow if not Thursday 
3/30/13, 11:37 PM
#30
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3/31/13, 02:13 AM
#34
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Here's a picture of the final results:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...330_190329.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...330_180214.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E...330_180223.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...330_190329.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...330_180214.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E...330_180223.jpg
3/31/13, 06:04 AM
#35
Banned
Final price for everything?
3/31/13, 10:35 AM
#37
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, the car is amazing!
2600 for parts plus dyno of 500 and about 300 for welding the O2 sensors = 3400.
On top of that I wanted to replace all COP packs to make sure i get a good spark - had 84000 miles on the old ones- so that was 420 extra on my part
And I paid extra for my mechanic to replace and give me a better oil relocation kit - oil filter side and AN10 steel braided hoses - 400 labor and parts
Had to replace the studs from driver side exhaust manifold as they were bad - 150
Grand total - 4600
2600 for parts plus dyno of 500 and about 300 for welding the O2 sensors = 3400.
On top of that I wanted to replace all COP packs to make sure i get a good spark - had 84000 miles on the old ones- so that was 420 extra on my part
And I paid extra for my mechanic to replace and give me a better oil relocation kit - oil filter side and AN10 steel braided hoses - 400 labor and parts
Had to replace the studs from driver side exhaust manifold as they were bad - 150
Grand total - 4600
