Stuck with ford pro cal tuner?
Stuck with ford pro cal tuner?
I had my 08 gt at Carlisle a few years ago, where a local dealer was installing a cai at a special price. What I got was the ford racing cai with a tune, but no tuner. The guy told me it would be no problem later on. Now I have 4.10 gears and need the speedometer calibrated, I would also like to back off the timing a bit because of a little bit of spark knock (has always been present). Does anyone know if I can buy a tuner that will still will work over the pro cal tune, or do I need to get the car returned to stock by a ford dealer somehow? Or should I buy a pro cal? (they seem limited to frpp parts though)
I'm pretty sure you need to get it back to stock before you can put a different tune on it... Not positive though... I know I switched from my FRPP tune to the stock tune before I put my SCT tune on...
You can get a xcal with a new tune and install it on top of your ford racing pro cal tune. Ask the vendors around. The xcal will think the procal tune is the stock calibration, that's all. Think of tuning a tuning a Shelby GT, same thing.
I've overwritten a couple tunes, it will just save your tune as a stock tune. You can always go get a stock tune put on the car at a dealership.
The sct will indeed think the FRPP tune is the stock one. Plus you can then "back up" the FRPP tune to your pc if you want. The only consiquence is that the procal tuner you no longer have is locked to your car. Maybe the dealer sends them back to ford racing and they can unlock them.
Thanks. I assume the xcal is the sct brand tuner??? There seems to be so many different ones of just that brand. I would like to be able to adjust the gear ratio, timing, and a/f, myself. I also like the idea of the tuners with the meters and displays also. Eventually I would like to be able purchase the software to access all tuning parameters. Which one would fit this bill if any? I think it seems best to get my car returned to stock at the dealer, then I can start fresh. any ideas?
SCT is the most popular and widely used tuner now. They have the SF3/X3, LiverWire, and TSX.
They all let you adjust all your basics. The LiveWire will display 5 different "meters", some like boost will require you to connect an external line into it. It connects to the OBDII port and can display anything the car monitors. The TSX is a wireless touch screen LiveWire. You can decide if they are worth the price. No idea how to get the software to change all parameters, best left to the pros IMO.
If the FRPP tune is causing knock, maybe you should get a stock tune lol. On that subject, what type of gas are you running in it?
They all let you adjust all your basics. The LiveWire will display 5 different "meters", some like boost will require you to connect an external line into it. It connects to the OBDII port and can display anything the car monitors. The TSX is a wireless touch screen LiveWire. You can decide if they are worth the price. No idea how to get the software to change all parameters, best left to the pros IMO.
If the FRPP tune is causing knock, maybe you should get a stock tune lol. On that subject, what type of gas are you running in it?
As far as the software, I'm just thinking ahead to the future. If the company that makes a tune for me goes under, I'm possibly screwed. If I decide to make a mod that requires dyno session, I'm screwed, there is no abundance of speed shops in Maine. I think with the software and an experienced tuner I would have better chances of making it go. As far as the spark knock, it was even there when the car was new, without the cai and tune. It comes on at about 3000 rpm when the car is cold. It goes away within a few seconds. Throttle position does not matter, partial to wide open, it is there. When warmed up, I just get a slight ping under heavy acceleration, only noticed since the cai and tune. I have always run the highest octane available. 91 here. I tried 93 no ethanol unleaded from a local airport, no difference. I added lucas octane boost to a full tank once, no difference. I have tried mobil, gulf, and shell, no difference. There not many choices up here. I figured backing off the timing a few degrees was probably the best choice. ???????
Hmmm, about the knock. It is really noticable when the car is cold? Like in the mornings? I imagine in Maine that is quite often lol. It starts off really annoying especially in lower gears/RPM, then goes away after a few minutes?
If so, I think you have the VERY common transmission plate rattle, or even a heat shield rattle.
If so, I think you have the VERY common transmission plate rattle, or even a heat shield rattle.
Hmmm, about the knock. It is really noticable when the car is cold? Like in the mornings? I imagine in Maine that is quite often lol. It starts off really annoying especially in lower gears/RPM, then goes away after a few minutes?
If so, I think you have the VERY common transmission plate rattle, or even a heat shield rattle.
If so, I think you have the VERY common transmission plate rattle, or even a heat shield rattle.
Last edited by andystrucking; Aug 22, 2011 at 07:32 PM.
Sorry about the long wait on responce, forget to check threads sometimes.
It is (probably) caused by 2 missing bolts on the bottom of the tranny bell housing dust cover. They are 10mm dia. x 1.5mm thread size, and no longer than 3/4". They should be available from a local Ford dealership.
It may also be the heat shields above your exhaust pipes, or by the exhaust hangers.
Let me know how it turns out.
It is (probably) caused by 2 missing bolts on the bottom of the tranny bell housing dust cover. They are 10mm dia. x 1.5mm thread size, and no longer than 3/4". They should be available from a local Ford dealership.
It may also be the heat shields above your exhaust pipes, or by the exhaust hangers.
Let me know how it turns out.
Personally I have as much faith in the major tuners like American Muscle than the local tuners in my town. Plus with American Muscle you have free tunes for life even if you don't buy the parts from them, you can't beat that.
Good luck dealing with the fallout of the Hurricane.
Hey how do get the pro cal tune off and back to factory did you just plug the little blue pro cal tune back into the obd2 and then what? Anyone have an idea?
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Before your able to upload the tune from the ProCal, it stores your stock tune into the ProCal tool's internal memory. To return back to stock, just plug the ProCal tool into the OBDII port and then select the option to return back to stock.
Also FYI: Are your aware the last person who submitted a response on this thread was from over 8 years ago? apparently not!
Also FYI: Are your aware the last person who submitted a response on this thread was from over 8 years ago? apparently not!
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; Dec 1, 2019 at 05:51 AM.
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