I wonder why. They have two different sets that show the zerk fittings. The billet ones do not however.

 

Lol, to the wheel flying off post. They are beefy thats for sure. I could see them holding up to that torture without issue.
I have them, along with the pro kit, and now my LCA's are parallel to the ground, just where I want them. No need for other holes.

 

I like my BMR re-low brackets.

Only complaint was that the fitment was a little tight.

 

What about the METCO stuff? Is there anybody out there running their stuff? I have been looking at it but don't know if its good stuff or not.

 

You mean these guys: http://www.metcomotorsports.com/index.htm Nice workmanship but haven't heard much. A bit pricy.

 

Yep those are the guys. I'm thinking about the LCAs and brackets but was wanting some input from some other people before I drop the money.

 

BMR!

 

Whatever you get make sure the parts are matching meaning BMR with BMR, CHE with CHE, etc. Sometimes if you go with say LCA from CHE and relocation brackets from BMR they will not mate up correctly...

 

Why wouldn't they match? If BMR, CHE, etc. sells a LCA bracket that will work with the stock LCA, then theoretically it should work with any other LCA since the aftermarket LCA has to fit in a stock bracket too. In other words, the specs should be the same for all of them otherwise you couldn't put a stock LCA in an aftermarket bracket, or conversely, put an aftermarket LCA in the stock bracket. The length and width of any aftermarket LCA should be the same as the stock LCA and therefore fit into any bracket that would accomodate a stock LCA.

 

CHE bracket and adj LCA's here. I went through a few different sets of LCA's before these. BMR's banged and were noisy as hell. Steeda was OK, but I had the non adjustable ones.

After the S/C install, the rear end would squat like the tailpipes where dragging. The CHE brackets took out 90% of the squating, now she just moves! CHE anti-squat brackets may only have one hole, but on my car, it puts the LCA level with the ground, which is what you want. If your LCA is higher toward the rear, your car will squat, if it's higher in the front, you'll get some oversteer, but level is usually just right.

The CHE adj LCA's are very beefy, and really quite compared to BMR, and adjustable is the way to go. Never know when you'll decide to through on a light weight drive shaft and set the pinion angle.

 

Exactly!

 

Ok so I have a question about LCA and brackets. Not trying to hijack the thread just wanting some more info. How much of a difference do they really make with M/T ET Streets? My 60ft time in the 1.7 range already, will the really help that much getting my times lower?

 

Stock ride height, I wouldn't recommend them for you

 

If the LCA's are higher towards the front, that can actually give an oversteer condition during cornering knows as roll-oversteer. As the LCA's swing through their arc during suspension travel, they in effect change length. For example, if you are taking a hard right hand turn your car rolls over your left side wheels. The left LCA forward body mounting point drops in relation to the axle mounting point, the right LCA does the opposite.

When the LCA's are parallel to the ground, the left and right LCA's effective length changes are in theory the same as they both swing through their arcs (there is a lot more to it, depending on the actual 3-link design geometry, etc..., but this is the basic idea...). Because the effective length changes are the same, the rear axle position (fore-aft for each side) stays the same during roll. This gives a neutral steering input from the rear axle.

When the LCA's are higher in the front relative to their rear axle mounting point (e.g. using LCA relo brackets), you can create a roll oversteer condition. Taking the same right hand turn now causes the left LCA to effectively gain length, while the right LCA effectively loses length. This causes a shift in the rear axle position, which adds steering input as the rear end wants to swing left as you enter the right hand turn (oversteer during roll). This is something that can be downright dangerous at the extremes (e.g. stock ride height, huge LCA drop change), but can also be used as a tuning aid.

When the LCA's are lower in the front relative to their rear axle mounting point, the opposite happens and you get roll-understeer. The rear end of the car is resisting the turn a little. Since we can modulate rear end grip very well with the throttle (both with lift, or with application), this is arguably the better situation to be in if you can't get a neutral position.

My experience with the CHE brackets are that with the Eibach pro-kit the LCA's are slightly higher in the front. It wasn't enough to create a problematic roll oversteer condition initially (in fact, I liked it because it helped rotate the car for autocrosses), but when I added more negative camber up front (i.e. more front grip) and sticky tires, it became more noticable.

I removed the CHE brackets for my last track day and am up in the air about putting them back on. They are a huge point penalty for time trials, so I'm hoping to get used to the car without them. I also don't autocross anymore--road courses only now. I do think something like the Steeda brackets with their broad range of adjustment might be the most useful to play with tuning.

For a pure street or drag race car, though, the CHE brackets are probably the best bet. They are stout (that wheel off story is excellent! ), bolt right in, and give a good position if you are running a mild drop.

 

Nice Input Slaya. By eye my LCA's look pretty darn level with the prokit on the Che's, never took a level to them. Im not a huge racer but to get out once or twice a year, so Im no all that concerned with mine.

 

Yep, sorry, you're right, I had a typo. I really shouldn't post techy stuff before coffee in the morning.

My CHE brackets with Roush rear springs (mild .75-.80" drop) puts my LCAs level. I like!!.