I went and read just about every post I could find on LCA brackets. It seems that the general consensus is that if you get BMR, you need to weld them. StangSuspension and J&M would seem to need the same welding, but I haven't seen that many comments on it. The Steeda ones look the flimsiest and would seem to have the highest likelyhood of bending backwards. The CHE ones look very beefy, but do only have one setting. So, which is the best way to go?

I will be getting the BMR LCA's with poly/poly non-adjustables. They will go on first since I haven't lowered the car yet. In the near future, I will be putting in a lowering kit from somebody and will need the LCA brackets. The question is, which ones? I like BMR products, but have seen the pictures of the bent bracket. I am leaning towards CHE brackets with the BMR LCA's. Comments on those with the various brands?

 

The CHE ones are so beefy that when my left rear tire flew off (don't ask), the CHE bracket dragged on the road for about 30 feet (which is how far it took to stop the car) and was still perfectly straight, though as you can imagine, it was filed down a bit by the asphalt, along with the corresponding LCA. They are BEEFY. CHE even updated their brackets to have more clearance from the swaybar than their first gen ones (found this out when I bought the second pair to replace the first). And even though they are bolted in, they still stayed in place even while being dragged on ground supporting the weight of the car.

BTW that's a side benefit of having the reloc brackets...when installed, they become the lowest point of the suspension (closer to the ground than even the stock brake rotors), so if your wheel happens to fly off like mine did (and you have stock rotors), the brackets will take all the punishment and save the rest of your rear end!

my .02

 

((scratching my head, wondering about the story behind the wheel flying off incident))

Anyway, the CHE pieces MUST be beefy LOL!

 

I had the exact same question. Definitely going CHE after that story...

 

I'm liking the story about the CHE. Are there any other brands that I may have missed out there?

 

Those would be the top 3 or 4 on the market that I know of........ and CHE seems to take the cake.

 

Yep I agree the CHE one's are very beefy. In fact i liked all their suspension parts over BMR's. I started off trying to run BMR stuff but had to many issue's with clearances and things not fitting right. Switched to all CHE stuff and did not have one problem at all.

 

The CHE tubular LCA's do not look as strong as the BMR ones, and they are not greasable but the CHE site says there is no need for grease. Is this accurate? Is the square tube design stronger than a tubular design or does it matter? I do like the parking cable retainer on the CHE, but a zip tie probably works just fine albeit not as clean.

 

My Steeda LCAs don't have grease fittings, and I've had them installed for over a year now with no problems.

 

I was wondering the same thing. See my thread:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=471691

I do like the idea of a greasable bushing as well, and wonder about the CHE claim (they say almost maintenance free?). But maybe it's not such a big deal per Tom above??

The J&M billet arms use a "Poly-ball" bushing () but don't say if they need or can be greased (no zerk fitting for sure). They're super cheap right now, too, $186. I think I'm leaning towards the poly/poly adjustable LCAs, though, with an eye toward driveshaft upgrade later, otherwise I'd go J&M LCA and CHE anti-squat bracket.

 

Looks like J&M also make a set of tubular arms that use the poly-ball setup but also have a zerk fitting for grease as well.

 

So nobody has mentioned that the Steeda LCA relocation brackets have far more adjustment points....?

 

BMR lower control arms here and no issues. I like the fact that I can grease them. I guess part of your decision should be based on how much much HP you are laying down or going to in the future. No reason to do things twice.

 

If you go with Poly bushing make sure and buy the correct grease for them. You need to buy silicone grease. BMR sells it on their site.

 

You can mix and match LCAs and relo brackets? I thought each brand would use ends with different widths. Am I wrong?

 

From the horse's mouth:



The CHE Performance Anti-Squat Brackets for the 2005-Current Mustang change the rear lower control arm geomtry. This change in geometry alters the Instant Center of the suspension pickup points reducing the tendancy for the rear of the vehicle to "squat" during hard launches. The lifting action of the control arms on the vehicle chassis firmly plants the tires to the track allowing greatly improved launches and 60ft times. Fits both V6 and V8

• *CHE1L
  
• Completely bolt in kit! No drilling or welding required
  
• Design allows for return to stock mounting location without removal of brackets
  
• Includes all required installation hardware
• Works with stock or aftermarket control arms
  
• Powdercoated finish

 

The width of the LCA has to be the same as the factory models otherwise they would not fit. How can you have various sizes. One would not fit another would be to loose. How would you expect that to work?

 

I think I saw in another thread how using marine grease may have led to the splitting and deterioration of poly bushings. I usually use Mobile 1 synthetic, which I believe is ok to use is it not? On the subject of the Steeda brackets, I like that they have many settings, but they sure look like they are the most lightweight of any of the brackets. They don't even have a backstrap that goes up to the panhard bolt. Perhaps they are much thicker? Or do the Steeda brackets have to be welded on thereby solving the strength issue? Any Steeda bracket users have any experience in this regard?

 

I would not use the Mobil 1 grease I would buy the grease that BMR sells or you can contact Prothane as I think they sell the same grease for use with their products. Adjustability is nice but if your not drag racing the car week in and week out I really so no reason for them.

As for the Steeda LCA Anti Squats I would weld them also. About the only ones i have seen that do not require welding are the CHE.

 

This isn't correct. I bought a set of J&M tubulars earlier this year. No grease fittings. I contacted them and was informed they'd deleted the grease fittings over a year ago, even though their website photos still show them.