Porsche is apparently completely clueless - no idea how to make a street car

 

I asked Steeda about the bracket near the rotor, like in the Agent 47 kit and others, and they said it is not needed and it adds unnecessary weight. Has anyone looked into sourcing just the ducting alone? The best price I found for quality neoprene brake duct tubing was about $50 for 10 feet from Jegs (more for a higher temperature rating) so the Steeda price, with the inlets, brackets, zip ties AND instructions is not that far off the mark.

 

 

Unneccesary weight????
Is Steeda kidding?
How much could those brackets possibly weigh?

 

Here is what rossmustang.com has to offer but it was not yet on their website...for around $360. These are pictures supplied by rossmustang.com

 

That sure looks like the Agent 47 I have on my car...

 

You mean worthwhile brake mods on street cars. 14" front rotors with pads and ss lines and rear rotors(mostly to match aesthetically) for about $1000=95% of what $3500+ in full BBK mods do in street use. You get all the increases in additional bite, reduced fade, better pedal feel, and reduced risk of warp-age-even from repeated traffic stops. A two piece front rotor will do a hell of a lot more for cooling and heat soak then a piece of hose blowing a touch of air on just the inside of a rotor. Ducting does nothing unless you're running 120+ down every 40mph neighborhood, for hours straight. Increased rotor area and better pad compounds effect brake temperatures until ultra-high ram air speeds get that touch of extra air on them(today that 'cool' air would be about 100 degrees on the way in-may as well rig hair dryers behind the spindles-new electric brake cooling system, with 3 times the air of a tiny duct kit) You could get two travel hair dryers for about $20.

If I was running a 500mile race at 180+ I would definitely get them though. For the 2 minute breaks one gets from traffic on the streets, you will never get any measurable increase in performance with them. There is plenty of air flowing under the vehicle, its not some controlled venturi downforce wonder under there. A 2" vacuum hose twisted under the car through a small hole in the front bumper at 70mph is going to what? Take your vacuum extension, tape it to the side view mirror, and run it into your closed interior on a 95 degree day to the back of your neck and turn off the ac and go for a two hour ride. On every rainy day on the road, however, you do get to enjoy all the lousy aspects of them. On your way home from work tonight, see if you can get your rotors to glow. If you've ever seen them on a real race car, the intake is the size of an office trash can with a 3"-4" hose(often multiple hoses) so they help cool a little bit over 160mph. I've also seen many a Nascar race cars' intake get blocked or damaged and they still finished the race just fine, even on tracks that are notoriously hard on brakes.

In theory, the ducting on Z06's, 911's, and M3's are a good idea, how many owners actually see any benefit from it in street use? Don't forget to add an adjustable race wing and some underbody aerodynamics with those ducts for those hard core parkway sessions.

Yes, since every version of TMS that has existed I have just been trolling...And if trolling is making unnecessary posts, what then is making a post on a brake thread about trolling?

 

You've obviously never pushed your car hard. Our brakes are marginal from an OEM standpoint. Brake ducts help cool the rotor and pad material.

 

Uh, why do you think I am getting two piece larger front rotors, pads and ss lines all around.. I'm still not sold on a brake pad though, waiting for a few people to do something similar and see what does what. Just like the brembo/pbr cobra setup was a bang for the buck magic upgrade for the SN-95's for street use-you had to triple the cost to make the next noticeable difference. For hard street use you really don't need better calipers, heck just good pads and lines do enough. I just want to see what's noise free and low dust and how it holds up before settling on an exact combo. Rotors with a touch more swept area and a little better metallurgy helps that much more. I think 6-piston calipers are a little optimistic for this car by design. There would be a ton more work to the suspension and chassis needed before you could exploit them.

 

From all the brake duct applications I've seen for the S197... May look cool ! but thats probable the only significant cooling effect! I don't see any way to get any significant CFM to the rotors and pads from these applications.These kits are probable as effective as trying to urinate on a Forrest fire to put it out!.......

 

Oh man, I don't know if you are being facetious, or if you actually believe what you wrote and think it is in any way contributing tech to this forum.

Let's see, where to begin... How about the 14" brakes you want. Matching rear, too! Can't wait to hear how that affects your braking bias. Keep us informed. At least you admit it is for aesthetic purposes. Perhaps all of your future responses should be routed over to the "Appearance Mods" section of the forums.

So, the 14" inch rotors are needed to get additional bite, reduced fade, better pedal feel, and reduced risk of "warp-age"-even from repeated traffic stops. Sounds just like better pads, new fluid, stainless lines and brake ducts accomplish--only with less weight and lower cost. Oh, that's right, they won't contribute to the aesthetics. Perhaps you should readjust your adjustable race wing.

But wait, so 14" rotors will reduce "warp-age" (is that a Star Trek term?) from traffic stops, but brake ducts won't? Your logic is lost on me.

Moving along to your assertion about blowing hot air. Do us all a favor and study up on the laws of thermodynamics and heat transfer. I'll give you a big hint: if your rotors are at 800 degrees and you are routing 100 degree air into the rotor hats, you still get plenty of heat transfer. Mmkay.

Regarding rainy day driving--why do you keep coming back to this? Have you ever driven with brake ducts on a rainy day? Care to explain how, even IF the rain drops manage to complete the 90 degree turn and traverse 3 feet of brake duct, just how having water blown into your rotor hat and internal cooling vanes will in any way affect braking?

As for "plenty of air flowing under the vehicle?" Really? Care to back that up with some facts? Last time I checked, the area under cars is a negative pressure area with minimal air flow. This is exacerbated with a large, flat fronted vehicle like our Mustangs.

I agree, you are a troll, but **** your posts are funny to read due to the overwhelmingly ignorant content you post.

 

Dude enjoy the dumb hoses and kid yourself all you want. Water issues come from people who own cars with brake duct complaints. It washes brake dust stained water all over the car(if you were actually driving hard enough to get excessive dust with agressive pads). Warp-age is from the spell checker from a post that only took a couple minutes to type. The rear rotopros are asthetic, but not having slotted/drilled rotors with black hats on the rear would look silly. And you checked your rotors after a spirited driving session to discover they were some 800+ degrees fascinating. You have a friggin GT with an intake, you are not running in a Rolex 24 hour event . The metallurgy of the stock rotors is enough to handle normal vehicle driving, if you operate them hard they can heat soak and warp. They are nowhere near as bad as the SN-95's which often were warped after a couple test drives before it was even titled. It was par for the course to have to get your rotors turned on an SN-95 in short order. Baer eradispeed rotors are much more resistant to heat soak being two piece and using better metals(as are one piece rotopros in stock sizes). The bias will not be off only increasing the front rotor size as in GT trim it does not need the larger rear rotor, just pads of similar compounds as the fronts.....On SN95's which had very small non-ventilated rear rotors 14" fronts still did not cause ill effects. Based on just randomly assuming they have to match exactly would surely keep you away from motorcycles with twin 320mm 4-piston fronts and a single 280mm two piston rear. Brake ducting does work at the extremes, but you need a car first that can do enough to need them.

You are surely all set to go racing at Watkins Glen now that you have agent 47 brake ducts on your stock rotors... Cripes I'm feeding the troll

 

"With all due respect..."(Ricky Bobby-Talladega nights) All that from someone who's Stang is all show, no go?!?! No offence kevinb120.

Anyway, my whole intent is to gain a little more life from the stock rotors on the track, specifically Mid America Motorplex in Iowa. I overheated them (they are now blue) last year using Hawk Plus front pads and stock rotors but I did not experience any fade. Sure, I could go to better rotors, slotted possibly, for around $500 or more for all four corners but I only need them for the track and I spend more time on the roads than the track. In my book, around $100 for a brake cooling set-up is more cost effective. I am trying to make my own. If it doesn't work out, I'll let you all know.

Here is how I modified my stock lower grill which I will use for the track only. I'll reinstall a stock grill without holes for normal street driving. I still need to somehow mount the ductwork to the back of the bumper cover.