Yup, I lose about 20lbs or more of weight and that allows the motor to free up about 5 to 10 hp. Motor spools up a little quicker.
It's been in now for awhile with no problems and I even added a Saleen SC later in the year it works fine pushing 430rwhp.

 

27mm or 1 1/16.

nevermind. there is a whole thread dedicated to pinon nut size

 

Well guys it's official. I am Spyderized. It took an 18 inch breaker bar with a 24 inch piece of pipe to break that sucker loose. I also had to pull my truck in the garage so I could put my feet against the front wheel to stop me from sliding. (Thanks Scramblr for the idea!) Anyway you cut it replacing that pinion flange is tuff. Glad it's done. On the Earls SS brake lines.
Scott

 

Dang pops, I heard about old dudes having hip or knee replacements but not shaft replacements...... has does your new shaft feel??

 

Well how does 4 inches in diameter and say 45 inches long sound to you? Young Gun!!!
Scott

 

Familiar.

 

Glad it worked out for you Scott. Gotta say though, you've had the most trouble with that nut than any other thread I've read. Someone went a little trigger happy with the impact gun when assembling it. That's definitely not the norm.

 

Hey Alex,
There was a couple of things I didn't like about that pinion nut. First was how tight it was. It took way more than 150ft/lbs to break that nut loose. Next was how hard that nut came off the thread. Alot of effort. Like it was cross threaded but it wasn't. Third, the stock pinion flange was really pressed on the pinion spline. Again a lot of effort to pull it off. Lastly, the amount of effort required to draw the new flange back until it seated. Again, the spline seemed like a big press fit. I wasn't happy about the amount of the effort required coming off or going back on. Especially after I read guys just tapped their stock flange off with a rubber mallet. I am curious though about one thing. I lost maybe 6-8 oz. of gear lube in the swap. Did you guys top off the differential fluid? Or not worry about it. I have not checked the level yet.
Scott

 

I just want you guys to know that you are very bad influences! I broke down and ordered my spydershaft!
As soon as I get back home from Ramtein AB, Germany, my new shaft will be waiting on me and will be installing it shortly after!!!

 

Scott,

Ron (Spyder) is now selling a puller for the flange. That was before I installed mine (the bastard ). It took a 3lb short handle sledge hammer just to get stock CV joint out of the stock flange. The same BFH was used to take the flange off, with love taps of course. The new flange went in part way, just enough to stop the fluid from coming out and then yes, it took some torque to get it seated in there, hence the 140lb ft torque to get it seated in there. No worries with that. Also, your fluid level should be fine. Just open up the filler hole and stick your "clean" finger in there and check the level. It takes 1.7 liters and should be just below the bottom of the fill hole with the axle at ride height. I checked mine after installation and it was right where it should be.

Well I sure hope so, your per diem just payed for it.

 

sorry scott I was in orlando for a few days. did you get it worked out? The loctite that Fomoco uses is really good. when I do the installs I'll use a snap-on impact gun (really strong 500+ft.lbs.) or a 1/2 drive ratchet with an 18" pipe for leverage. Other than that you could use a small amount of heat but I've never had to resort to that. I'd be very cautious if you plan on using a torch under there. that fuel tank is plastic and very close.
*Changing the flange may be more difficult but judging from the results we have had it is worth the extra work to install the correct parts designed for this type of an application.

 

I have a question. In going with the 1 piece it seems now apon hard braking the rear end seems to tap on my mid muffler exhaust. I did try to re allign it but to no avail. Does the rear end pivit down more then 1" to 1 1/2" apon hard braking ? That is how far my drive shaft flange is from the Exhaust pipe. Do I need to put on UCA's and LCA's to stop the rotation up or down of the rear end?

If so Adjustable or non adjustable. Just adj. upper or lower or both?

Hard beaking gives me a ting tin tin which makes the side exhaust slightly move up and down about 1/4". ONLY under hard braking.

 

Hey Ron,
Read down thru the later posts. I have the Spydieshaft installed. I guess in a nut shell I was very surprised at the effort it took to remove the stock pinion nut and flange and put on the flange you supply. Don't get me wrong...I am happy with your product..and I am glad that I have no spacer to worry about. But I have to admit the effort required while lying on your back in 30 degree weather was not expected. We're cool!
Scott


P.S. I also know it is a lot about tolerances. Maybe the spline on my pinion gear is a little oversized. That would make it a lot tougher to remove the stock flange and put on the new one. Also I used a 250 ft/lb torque wrench not a 500 ft/lb one like you did. Stupid question here. If Ford only torques to a max of 150 why would you need a 500 ft/lb wrench? Now I know why it feels like a left a nut laying on the garage floor last night. :-)

 

Scott, hope you get to drive it soon and check for vibration, etc.

 

One hyphenated word, two syllables: LOC-TITE. The red Loc-Tite that Ford uses grabs like JB Weld. I ran across this in two different places when doing mods, and it was a ***** both times. The upper bolt on the UCA mount (inside the car, under the seat) was nearly impossible to take off, but honestly, the pinion flange nut was worse. Like yours, mine was a major PITA to pull, right down to needing to use a precision adjustment tool (read: BFH) to assist in removing the flange, including a moment or two of panic when the flange cleared the seal, fluid started pouring out, and it was STILL stuck on the pinon shaft...

ALL THAT SAID, the Spydershaft ranks very high on the bang-for-the-buck scale. I was fighting with CAI/tune issues at the time, so no back-to-back timeslip data, but my butt-dyno says it was easily good for a tenth or two. I didn't have to reset the pinion angle, and I have no vibrations up to around 130 or so. The car just feels crisper in both acceleration and braking. If I had to do it all over again, I most certainly would choose the Spydershaft all over again, BUT, I would order the puller! Seriously, this is not an install to be afraid of at all. Just be ready with some muscle. And Advil.

 

Well I just joined the spydershaft ranks. Got back from my initial test drive. Took her up to 90 with a hard launch and did some regular driving. ZERO increase to NVH. Even my girl (the queen of "whats wrong with your car?") didn't notice a change.

As for the install, the pinon nut wasn't too tough. But keep in mind, I have less than 7000 miles on the clock. I rented a 3 jaw gear puller from kragen for the pinon flange. You lay down a deposit and get it back in full if you return the tool in 24 hours. The only real headache I had was trying to get the flange bolts torqued to 76 ft/lbs. I broke my 3/8 inch torque wrench so I had to use the 1/2 inch torque wrench. Even with a universal joint it was awkward.

Ron, GREAT PRODUCT!!! Now I need to focus on traction...

 

Well I sure hope so, your per diem just payed for it. [/quote]

Per diem, what per diem? You guys get per diem? Just kidding. This little trip to Germany also just paid for some other goodies for "X-Mas"! As in Shaker Hood assembly, front chin spoiler, sequence tail lights and even some new floor mats!

Just can't wait to get home to install everything!

 

Um, Yeah, thinking you did alright on that trip!!!

 

Well I hope so, but actually still on it. I'm still here at Ramstein AB until Friday. Just been ordering my parts from here!

 

Everybody should get a loop with a new driveshaft!

Have you noticed any performance gains with the Spydershaft?