GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

SpyderShaft is in!!!!

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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #21  
06GT4RAD's Avatar
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From: Nor-Cal
Originally Posted by Dougxox
the CHE one looks like a "U" bolt attached to a frame
Yeah basically that is the design but I can assure you it is very beefy and meet the specs it is required to meet.

Richard
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #22  
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CHE is very beefy....i tried to install mine....it said use a 5/16 drill but after drilling one hole the bolt would not catch and go in at all....Went to home depot for a new bit cause the one i was using wasnt exactly going through the metal easily and tried the bolt in a 5/16 thread size, still no go.....tried it in the 3/8 and it threaded like butter.....is it me or are the instructions not correct on the drill bit size??
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #23  
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From: Nor-Cal
Originally Posted by howarmat
CHE is very beefy....i tried to install mine....it said use a 5/16 drill but after drilling one hole the bolt would not catch and go in at all....Went to home depot for a new bit cause the one i was using wasnt exactly going through the metal easily and tried the bolt in a 5/16 thread size, still no go.....tried it in the 3/8 and it threaded like butter.....is it me or are the instructions not correct on the drill bit size??
Sorry Matt I cannot answer that as mine is still sitting int eh box waiting to be installed. I am amassing some parts for the drivetrain and am waiting to have it all so I can have it all done at once. The drill bit should however be a tad smaller than the bolt. Basically the Drill bit should be the same width as the bolt in inside the thread area.

Richard
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 08:24 AM
  #24  
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From: Spangdahlem Air Base Germany
I'm using the BMR front loop with the Spyder. Thing is sturdy, can't see it going anywhere in case of an incident.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 01:53 PM
  #25  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by dly
No waiting for the driveshaft, ordered it Wednesday and got it Monday.

The pinion flange was alittle problem but I think its my air gun (I couldn't get the Crankshaft bolt off with it when I did my UDP). I needed about 3 tanks of air to finally get it to come off. And I could only torque it back down to 115ft/lbs., all the e-brake could handle and I think my Torque wrench reads light any way. I brought a set of gear pullers from Harbor Freight for 14 bucks and they worked great

I've had my car for a year and probally over had it up to 100mph only once. I mainly drive like a Grandpa most of the time

Hey Darrell and Sypder7724 (Ron),
Okey Dokey,
Darrell says he had issues getting the pinion nut off with his air gun and Spyder (Ron) says he about knocked 2 ***** into left field trying to get the pinion nut off. Well I am doing the install on the Sydieshaft today and the stock driveshaft came out in about 30 minutes. Well that pinion nut seems to be an issue. I have used a 250 ft/lb impact wrench and a breaker bar with my foot against the under carriage with no luck. I even have a 200 ft/lb torque wrench that I cannot even get the pinion nut loose with. I have tried jack handles that are too long also. I need to cut a piece of pipe that will slip up and down my breaker bar so I would hit the floor. I am just trying to figure out how something that is supposed to be on torqued to 120-150 ft/lbs can't be broken loose with a 250 lb impact wrench!! Any suggestions Ron?

Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #26  
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From: CA
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Hey Darrell and Sypder7724 (Ron),
Okey Dokey,
Darrell says he had issues getting the pinion nut off with his air gun and Spyder (Ron) says he about knocked 2 ***** into left field trying to get the pinion nut off. Well I am doing the install on the Sydieshaft today and the stock driveshaft came out in about 30 minutes. Well that pinion nut seems to be an issue. I have used a 250 ft/lb impact wrench and a breaker bar with my foot against the under carriage with no luck. I even have a 200 ft/lb torque wrench that I cannot even get the pinion nut loose with. I have tried jack handles that are too long also. I need to cut a piece of pipe that will slip up and down my breaker bar so I would hit the floor. I am just trying to figure out how something that is supposed to be on torqued to 120-150 ft/lbs can't be broken loose with a 250 lb impact wrench!! Any suggestions Ron?

Scott

I am doing my spydershaft install right now. I had to go to home depot to get an 18 inch piece of steel pipe to slide over my 1/2 inch ratchet. Then I jacked up the car as high as it would go to get the clearance necessary (with ramps under the tires, just in case). It was tough, but if you are on your back and you have something to plant your feet on, the extra umph from pushing with my legs did the trick.

Now if only UPS could make a delivery on schedule... I might be able to drive my car.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:10 PM
  #27  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by sook
I am doing my spydershaft install right now. I had to go to home depot to get an 18 inch piece of steel pipe to slide over my 1/2 inch ratchet. Then I jacked up the car as high as it would go to get the clearance necessary (with ramps under the tires, just in case). It was tough, but if you are on your back and you have something to plant your feet on, the extra umph from pushing with my legs did the trick.

Now if only UPS could make a delivery on schedule... I might be able to drive my car.

Hey Ryan,
I guess that is where I am now. I will get a piece of pipe to go over my breaker bar and give it another yank tomorrow night. I could not believe that 250 lb. impact would not do the job.
Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #28  
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From: Medina county, OH
Dang Scott, that sucker is on there. You sure you're trying to turn the correct way??

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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:36 PM
  #29  
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NJ3
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You can also raise a floor jack under the end of your breaker bar.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:45 PM
  #30  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by tom281
Dang Scott, that sucker is on there. You sure you're trying to turn the correct way??


Well I thought of that. "Lefty loosey righty tighty" Correct? Unless that nut is a left hand thread I am turning it the correct way. And for what it worth the stock bolts at the transmission are only supposed to be tightened to 41 ft/lbs. But add Loctite to them and all bets are off. Took a breaker bar to loosen them the first half turn.
Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #31  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by NJ3
You can also raise a floor jack under the end of your breaker bar.

That's a good idea except with the over the axle pipes still in the car you only have about from 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock to work in with a breaker bar. That's it.
Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 03:57 PM
  #32  
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From: Central OH
Scott,
Sorry to hear that pinion nut is being so stubborn. Suggest same thing Tom mentioned, soak it down with PB, let it set overnight. If it's still stubborn, I can make it down over the weekend. Probably not a good location for heat, could damage the pinion shaft seal if you used a torch there.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 04:16 PM
  #33  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by aircare84
Scott,
Sorry to hear that pinion nut is being so stubborn. Suggest same thing Tom mentioned, soak it down with PB, let it set overnight. If it's still stubborn, I can make it down over the weekend. Probably not a good location for heat, could damage the pinion shaft seal if you used a torch there.
It's soaking Larry. But I read where it has loctite on it from the factory so I am not sure if it will do much good. I will get an extra cheater tomorrow and give it my best. Ummppaa! And your right... that is a "NO TORCH AREA"
Scott
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 05:26 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by dly
Started last night to install my new Spydershaft and then finished this morning with a Safety Loop.
The Spyshaft is a fine piece of work and the on-line instructions were very good. My problems: trying to get the car high enough to get my 260 lb frame under it, you need 12 point sockets to use on the bolts ( my 6 point sockets won't fit) but I used a racheting wrench and it worked great. Also it was almost impossible to get a torque wrench on the bolts.
The Safety Loop:
I didn't like the looks of the BMR one so I brought the Lakewood model 18005. It attacheds to the frame rails and looked very strong. The passenger side went on some what easy but when I started the driver side I found the fuel line cover (plastic) was in the way. I have to modifed the bolt holes and then for added piece of mind I put a Weld bead down both inside edges (away from the fuel lines). I would not recommend the Lakewood Safety Loop.
Test Drive:
Test drive was solid (I found a loose bolt on my UCA) and even my wife though the car drove better. 80mph with no vibrations. My car was lower springs (Tein H) about 1 to 1 1/2" drop and I had no clearance issues

I'm happy
So is there a noticeable improvement in acceleration?
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #35  
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From: Spangdahlem Air Base Germany
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
It's soaking Larry. But I read where it has loctite on it from the factory so I am not sure if it will do much good. I will get an extra cheater tomorrow and give it my best. Ummppaa! And your right... that is a "NO TORCH AREA"
Scott
Yeah, that puppy is a bear to get off there. I was able to break it loose with my 2' 200lb ft torque wrench and my feet against the garage wall on the passenger side. If I remember correctly there were a few explicitives hollered at around the same time. Keep at it, you'll get 'er done!!!
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 08:01 PM
  #36  
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From: SoCal
Hey Scott, bet the adapter plate sound good right about now, huh?

j/k man.. hope you get that sucker off and the new flange installed without any further hiccups.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 09:08 PM
  #37  
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What size is the pinion flange nut?
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 01:17 AM
  #38  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by TacoBill
Hey Scott, bet the adapter plate sound good right about now, huh?

j/k man.. hope you get that sucker off and the new flange installed without any further hiccups.

Have to admit Bill it crossed my mine today.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 08:12 AM
  #39  
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I chose the Powerhouse shaft for that exact reason.
I did not want to have to struggle to get the flange nut off and then worry about the preload on the crush sleeve not being right when it was replaced.
The billett adapter used with the stock flange was very easy to install.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 08:52 AM
  #40  
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From: Nor-Cal
Originally Posted by TacoBill
Hey Scott, bet the adapter plate sound good right about now, huh?

j/k man.. hope you get that sucker off and the new flange installed without any further hiccups.

Doh!


Richard
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