Started last night to install my new Spydershaft and then finished this morning with a Safety Loop.
The Spyshaft is a fine piece of work and the on-line instructions were very good. My problems: trying to get the car high enough to get my 260 lb frame under it, you need 12 point sockets to use on the bolts ( my 6 point sockets won't fit) but I used a racheting wrench and it worked great. Also it was almost impossible to get a torque wrench on the bolts.
The Safety Loop:
I didn't like the looks of the BMR one so I brought the Lakewood model 18005. It attacheds to the frame rails and looked very strong. The passenger side went on some what easy but when I started the driver side I found the fuel line cover (plastic) was in the way. I have to modifed the bolt holes and then for added piece of mind I put a Weld bead down both inside edges (away from the fuel lines). I would not recommend the Lakewood Safety Loop.
Test Drive:
Test drive was solid (I found a loose bolt on my UCA) and even my wife though the car drove better. 80mph with no vibrations. My car was lower springs (Tein H) about 1 to 1 1/2" drop and I had no clearance issues

I'm happy

 

So you're saying go with BMR safety loops and not the Lakewoods???

 

I didn't like the BMR as they are a solid loop and would need to be taken off to work on the Driveshaft. Also it look like they bolted up with only 2 bolts and I didn't think that would be very strong (just my opinion).
So I ordered the Lakewood, I wouldn't recommend the Lakewood's so buy another brand.

 

Hey man, good to hear you got it in. Couple of questions:

1) Was there a wait time on your order, or did you receive it quickly after placing the order?

2) Any problems during the install with the pinion flange or anything?

3) Get that sucker up to 100 mph or so and let me know if there's any vibration.... if you need some younger, dumb punk kid to drive it at that speed just let me know.

 

Younger...dumber ...and punker... Yep!!! That about sums it up. Had to do it. You've been hitting me with the old fart thing pretty hard this week. BTW, I would go with Spyders shaft over the others. It's less money and just as well built IMO! This mod is on my short list.
Scott

 

I have to quit reading about this mod. I'm going to pull the trigger on this D/S but rather it be alittle later than sooner. Glad you like it and I think I'm going to get the BMR front loop only.

 

No waiting for the driveshaft, ordered it Wednesday and got it Monday.

The pinion flange was alittle problem but I think its my air gun (I couldn't get the Crankshaft bolt off with it when I did my UDP). I needed about 3 tanks of air to finally get it to come off. And I could only torque it back down to 115ft/lbs., all the e-brake could handle and I think my Torque wrench reads light any way. I brought a set of gear pullers from Harbor Freight for 14 bucks and they worked great

I've had my car for a year and probally over had it up to 100mph only once. I mainly drive like a Grandpa most of the time

 

I've been waiting for that...... BTW we need to get together again before summer's up. Got any shows or anything down your way?

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it! We can talk more face-to-face at the Michiana show, assuming you'll be there next month.

Do it Rich, do it!

 

Glad you are pleased and everything went well.
i use a p/s pulley -steering wheel remover i bought at advanced a/p for $8 and it works like a charm...in a pinch you can use a Mr. Goodwrench issued BFH to persuade the old flange off

 

You should look into the CHE Driveshaft Loop

Richard

 

BMR vs CHE front loop. We need a group buy!

 

I'm running the Spyder shaft along with the BMR loop with great success. Maybe it's just me but I don't see any comparison between the CHE & BMR piece, maybe that's why I went the BMR route

 

Your right IMO ! The BMR loop looks to be a superior piece.

 

Is a BMR or CHE safety loop even necessary? That might be a silly question to some but if you at one of the photos at the Leonard Racing Products site (http://www.leonardracingproducts.com...ems/shaft1.jpg) it shows the stock safety loop. I ask because I don't race my car, the only action it sees is occasional "spirited" street driving.

Jon

 

Read this thread and than you decide if you need one or not.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=60950

 

You obviously misunderstood what I was asking. I want to know if the stock loop will suffice (as it is shown on the Leonard Racing Products site) or is a BMR or CHE loop necessary.

Jon

 

Sorry don't know as my 07 didn't have a stock loop.

 

+1

Nor did mine.

I've seen some 05 pics where the factory mounted some type of bar across the carrier bearing, but my 06 did not have this.

 

Jon;

You'll most likely never need it if you are not going to put slicks on your car. But another way to think about it is it's very cheap insurance if something does happen, and it would protect the bottom of your car as well.

The brace you see in the picture is not a driveshaft loop. It's just a brace of some sort. I have an 05 and I don't have it; chances are you don't have it either.

A legal (NHRA) drive shaft loop has to be made out of 1/4 plate steel and go all the way around the draveshaft.

 

the CHE one looks like a "U" bolt attached to a frame