Stopped by Auto Zone today looking for a tool to help do my brakes since my RotorPro rotors and brakes are in. I was wondering if this is the right one or if anyone has used it?

 

If that's the one that goes on the end of a ratchet extension, good luck. Go back and get the kit you rent that has a piece that goes on the caliper and uses it to resist the turning force. It's much better IMO.

 

i have a similar one that is a cube and has different configurations for different cars on each side and you put it on a rachet, like that one. It really is a pain in the a$$ to use those tbh. I did one rear brake in the time it took to do the whole front when I used the cube tool.

 

Ford rear brake calipers... ugh.

 

I used the cubed one and found that if I removed the caliper and then attached the removal tool to the end of a 18v cordless impact it worked just fine. I can't imagine trying to do it on the car with a ratchet. That would just suck.

 

I bought a kit at Harbor Freight for $19.00 bones (on sale) it had just about every configuration. Most of HF's stuff is questionable I know but every once in a while they have a mad deal that works.



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View more U.S. General items Caliper Tool Set for Disc Brakes

Work on your brakes at home with this professional kit, made from carbon steel with black industrial finish. For use on Ford, GM, VW, Honda, Subaru, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Toyota, BMW, Audi and Rover vehicles.

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Contains thread adjusting tool, 10 piece attachments and a pad in molded carrying case.


ITEM 40732-2VGA









Jed

 

That Harbor Freight kit looks EXACTLY like the one I borrowed from Advance Auto when I did the rear brakes on my '99. They'll charge you the cost of the kit when you borrow it, then credit it back when you return it. Unless you burn through A LOT of rear brakes, it's all you need for occasional use, and the price is right.

I saw an article on reducing your carbon footprint, and they recommended borrowing tools. So you can be green while working on your 'Stang!

 

That's exactly like the kit I borrowed from Auto Zone as well. Worked perfectly.

 

Thanks one and all for your input, greatly appreciated. I installed the fronts today and tomorrow I tackle the rears.

One other question, during install of one of the brake pads a spring clip broke loose and has since vanished on a drive, should I be worried? I still have the old pads, I guess I could take one of the spring clips from them and attatch it to the new pad. Should I bother? So far no noise or squeaks in front.

 

if you rent that tool from Autozone for turning the rear piston back in it will make your life much easier
you will get your money back on return

i wouldn't worry too much about the clips, i reinstalled all of them on the fronts (a couple old ones because the tabs on the new ones broke) but none on the rear because they destroyed themselves trying to get the pads back in

the bad part about the rears is disconnecting the parking brake cables and the spring that tensions the cam
to reassemble i squoze? the springs and had my son wire the springs shut, then cut the wire after the springs were reinstalled
you will never be able to compress the springs with even the biggest pliers

funny how the fronts can be done so easily but the rears take 2x the time
hope all this helps

 

Thanks again guys for all your input. You were all absolutely right about getting the tool set from AutoZone, there is no way I would have been able to get that piston in with just that ratchet tool. Otherwise, this being my first attempt at changing rotors and brake pads, it went rather smoothly and is definitely a mod anyone can do themselves with the right tools.

Now to wash and claybar before my trip south! Claybarring adds about 15 horsepower right?

 

Oh, at least! Probably closer to 25

 

You can get those spring clips from a local Carquest or other auto parts store for a few dollars, the pads should be fine without them, but sometimes the spring clips help eliminate a funky noise that can develop from the pads over time.

 

Didnt ur new pads come with new clips? Mine did...
Your lucky you didnt have any problems. My piston wouldnt compress
till I opened the bleeder valve.

 

Some pad manufacturers have been changing up giving spring clips and not giving them with the pads, it's a toss up lately. When you order them the parts people should be able to tell you if the pads come with spring clips or not.

 

I have the cube tool and found it way easier to remove the caliper with the old pads, loosen the bolts that hold the caliper bracket until you can remove the disc then re-tighten the bolts of the caliper bracket and remount the caliper without the pads. Then you have a steady platform in which to use the cube tool with a ratchet.
Don`t forget to align the slot on the piston face with the nub on the new pads when installing

 

Thank you, I will definitely keep this in mind should it ever start rattling or squeeking. So far so good even after the 1250 mile trip I just did to Florida (in 19 hours, that's including 4 gas stops and 1 half hour lunch break in Savannah.) Left my house @ 5am got here @ midnight! Yes the new pads do have the clips but I broke one off oops! Also all you had to do was take off the brake fluid cap under your hood to relieve the pressure. With that tool kit that everyone recommended from Autozone it was a piece of cake for the rears. The fronts just needed a c-clamp. There is a video "how to" from a youtube user in my favorites on youtube that mentioned removing the cap. If you look up Mas35NYR there you'll see it. This guy does an easy straight forward how to on the brake job. I used Taco Bill's "how-to" for the rotors! I also over did my homework on these installs as I never attempted this before and didn't want to f up my baby but I've seen it's actually very easy.
I'm not sure how you did yours but with that cube or the tool I posted at the top I just can't see getting enough leverage to push down and screw it without taking the whole caliper off and then having to bleed the brakes. With the tool kit from Autozone I didn't have to remove the caliper from the brake line at all so no bleeding necessary.