Anyone got a pdf on how to do this? Thinking about taking them to the powdercoater.

 

Rich, I pulled this from Modularfords....... its a brief writeup by Hatchman..... PM him, he can probably help you more.



Here's an old write up I did a few years ago. Might help:

I used a 1/4" socket wrench, an extension or two, 7mm (ignition coils), 8mm (cam cover bolts), and 10mm (air box hold-down bolt) sockets, and a screw driver. I also laid some towels over the fender to protect it from scratching.

First of all, I loosened up all the cam cover bolts, about a dozen on each side. Then I loosened up the 4 bolts/side holding the ignition COPs to the cam covers. Had to pop off all the vacuum lines and a couple of electrical connections. Then move all the ignition and other wires out of the way. On the driver's side, I had to remove the intake. Some people removed the battery tray, but I found this unnecessary.

The cam covers came right off, slid forward, up, and out of there. The thick rubber gasket is pretty tough, and reusable. No gasket sealer used by Ford or needed.

I ended up taking the oil neck off of my right side cam cover. The stock oil cap snaps right into its place, same thread pattern, and I think it looks better, though harder to fill without it, but I have several funnels.

Took me about 3 hours to swap mine out, but I'm really slow, and take my time, and clean stuff as I go. I'm sure the more mechanically inclined with an electric screwdriver with a socket attatchment could possibly swap them out in 30 minutes. Even less if you have a buddy helping. It's pretty easy though, if you can take out thirty bolts and put them back in, you can do this. Just be careful not to cross thread the bolts putting them back in, and I recommend putting in the bolts on the ends in first, especially the ones in the back.

Hope this helps.

B

 

Things that help me out were removing the battery and a universal swivel on a extension.

Attachment 21617

 

The above prety well sums it up. I willsay that I had to disconnect the coil pack wires on the drivers side but not the injector wiring. On the passenger side I had to disconnect both. I also had to disconnect a bolt on the passenger side that holds a ground of some sort to the front of the engine just under the radiator hose on the passenger side to allow the wiring harness to move far enough toward the fender to snake the cover out of the car. I found that getting them out was a lot less complicated than getting them back in after painting so as not to scratch them up. Also there are two sensors that protrude out of the covers near the front of the motor on both sides. You have to get the cover up and over these to get them out. I struggled for a few minutes untill I figured out what was holding them up. If you need further I can see if I can help just shoot me a PM or somthing. Have fun and Good Luck!

 

I'm be lazy and take mine in to my local speed shop

 

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Thanks for the cut/paste, Tom! It's pretty easy, you can knock it out and no time.

 

Just a note, if you got a 2007, you will need to cut the tit off of the battery lower tray, it will keep you from removing your right side cover. It is pretty easy, you may want to check Steeda for some good colors that are now available....just a thought.

 

What's the running price for powdercoating cam covers?

 

I wrote up a set of instructions when I did mine. Price for powder coating varies depending where you live. Here on LI it's very expensive, about $200. I've heard of guys in FL getting it done for about $125. Here's the link to my write up: http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/ValveCover.htm

 

I checked with a couple of local places today and the low was $75 and the high was $100. Looks like this is something that I will probably wind up doing.