Redrocket06

Ok, I installed a noncooled Vortech V3 kit from Brenspeed. Drove about 3000 miles with no issues. Then when the car was cold it would idle bad and the car would shake and bog when you tried to get going (about the time I put the breathers on), kind of like it was way rich. Then when it warmed up it did not do it. It did not do it every cold start. Then after about 2 weeks it would do it more often on cold start and it would do it warm while cruising and while sitting idle at say a light, stop sign, driveway.....And I ended up with 3 different DTC's. I do not remember the code #'s, but one was bank 1 O2 rich/not able to reach temp. anouther was Bank 1 O2 lean, and the last was Bank 1 O2 high voltage. I changed my O2's and the car runs different, not bad, just feels like it has more torque down low and the exhaust has a different tone, more of a growl. But it does run better. But sitting at Idle for about 5 min+ while warm it does the boging thing again, and the cold start this morning it did the bogging while driveing off. It was not as bad as before, and no code. More often than not it also cranks longer before it starts and fires up (before and after the O2 change). Last night I knowticed the oil gadge is reading slightly higher. Battery is good, terminals clean (not the issue). A friend following me said when I got on it hard it would puff black smoke out at first (rich??).
My thoughts are it is injecting too much fuel and starting to flood it, I am going for a dynotune in March/April. The car runs like a champ opened up, no problem there. I'm running Brenspeeds 93 octane V3 tune, mailorder. I dont have wideband. Just wanted to see if anybody has a good idea what it may be.

Sorry...Long.

06SatinSilver

may have fouled your plugs a bit...or might be some unmetered air getting in if you didnt cap your unused pcv openings well enough. ...or your O2s might have some crap on them again... The dyno will tell you more clearly what is happening...

cdynaco

fuel delivery? (pump, filter)
loose wire?
dirty MAF?

Redrocket06

My plugs are clean, already checked for vac leaks, 3000 miles on this fuel filter, already check wires, and cleaned the MAF.
I changed back to the PVC system and drove it. It did bog down once while idleing as I set up my datalog on the SCT, the short term fuel trim went to 1.3+ and it started to bog bad as it passed 1.15 and up (1.0 is spot on, higher is rich, lower is lean), but after driving 50+ miles or so it only did it that one time, so it looks promising. Now I just need to find out why I have to crank it so long to get it to start.

cdynaco

Seems like 1fastbob said something about an IAC Idle Air Control but someone else said it didn't have it... sounds like its starving for fuel with the hard start. My old carb truck bogs if I have the air mixture too lean where I have to flutter the gas (which sprays fuel from the accelerator pump) to keep it going. (Just throwing out hunches)

Redrocket06

I think it is an alternator or starter issue for the cranking.

But after I put the PVC system back on it has not done it to me after the engine has warmed up, now it is just when it is a cold start. That can be minimized with a solid tune.

Is there a way to get the alternator and starter checked without removing it from the car? I dont want to have to unbold half of the blower mounting plate just to remove the alternator, or remove the starter......I'm getting sick of jacking with this thing, it's taking up all my time and days off.I need a beer.

2k7gtcs

I had a similar problem when I first installed my Saleen on my '07.

Well actually everything you described is what it was doing. I would get an O2 code. The car was sluggish after a cold start but would be fine after it warmed up. Even acted like it wanted to die a couple of times at idle. When I was getting it tuned by Patrick at PSI in Webster I told him about the problem. I always figured it was the can tune and it was just rich.

Patrick told me that the stock computer has a mapping for the first 30 seconds or so while the engine heats up. Before this the computer is waiting for the O2 sensors to warm up enough to give it a reading. If you have LT headers like I do we have relocated the O2's a little more downstream. This causes it to take longer to warm up and when the sensors take over and begin sending the readings from the O2's to the computer the computer sees the problem as being lean and adds fuel. No tune will solve this as this is a result of the O2 sensor. What he told me he did to solve mine was extend that time period before the sensors used the O2 readings. I think it was like 90 seconds. Anyway it solved the cold start problems for me.

He also said it could be bad gas deposits on the O2 sensors. Luckily his solution solved my problem.


Ironically I have also had trouble with the car really wanting to crank when it starts. I've tested my battery and my alternator and fiddled with a lot of stuff. When the car is hooked up to a charger and you crank it, it really turns over and revs like its on steroids or something, but when its just off the battery it still starts, but with much less authority. I have yet to find an answer to this. I do know that I have to charge my battery if I let the car sit for more than a few days. Otherwise it won't start at all. So I leave mine on a trickle charger if I know I won't drive it for more than 2 or 3 days. What sucks is that this is with a Red top Optima battery.

2k7gtcs

I forgot to mention. Patrick also told me that changing the PCV system will make changes to the sensor readings by the computer. He asked me if I was going to run it with all the lines in place, or with the breathers I ad on it at teh time, as that would effect the tune. Don't know how, but that's what he said. At this point I figured the man knew what he was talking about because he knew everything and then some so far about what the car was doing.

cdynaco

Good tips Gary.

Dean, you might also run this by Five Oh Brian - he's got a Vortech, but I think a V2. Either way he's got some experience with them.

Redrocket06

Gary, excellent info. I don't think I will much worry about it too much more untill I get a tune, and I will try to drop it off the day before so PSI can see exactlly what it is doing on a real cold start.

After I get the starter and alternator checked I will not worry much about that too. I did put my 650 cca battery out of my truck in the car to see if that worked better......and......same thing. the Stang has a 4 yr old battery and the truck's is 2 yr. The truck cranked and cold started fine with the mustang battery.