I just ordered a set of OBX LT headers($457 shipped!). I was wondering what else am i going to need? If i decide to order motor mounts, where should i get them? What about 02 extensions? Should i get new bolts?

Im also wondering, how will these compare on the butt dyno to a JLT II/Bama 93 race? Can he email me a tune? Cost?

 

Everything in this listing is what you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kooks...Q5fAccessories

Motor mounts you can find on brespeed.com or tillmanspeed.com( if the site is up).

He can email you a tune for it and i think each tune is in the 50$ price range.

 

Bamachips updates his tunes for free, at least he used to?

Have fun with the longtubes!

 

You will DEFINITELY feel a difference, in "seat of the pants" feeling! Longtubes are one of the best performance upgrade you can do for an S-197 GT. Plus they sound SICK (I got ARH L/Ts with Stingers)!!!

 

im planning on adding stingers, but i would prefer to buy a used set. ive been through a couple different set-ups already.

how much do 02 extensions cost?

 

Off the top of my head, I don't know. American Racing included these with their setup.

 

First off you won't be disappointed with the OBX headers. And you got them at a better price then I did a year ago!! I have been running them for almost a year with no issues. To answer you questions I would say it is best to do Prothane motor mounts at the same time. Because you have to pull the stockers anyway and it is easy to do and they control engine movement. Don't know the cheapest place to buy today. Second, yes you need 02 extensions. I bought mine from Brenspeed. As far as bolts go. No... you can use the stockers. But I did the Stage 8 fastners. Check out this thread for more info.
Scott

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...ht=obx+headers

 

reason i got them for less is i had a like 10% of ebay thing.

thats an extra $200 almost! ahhh!

believe me, i pretty much went through every thread on here that was about them.

 

Have fun installing them, they are pain in the butt! well that's what I heard anyway, congrats!

 

All brands are a PITA to install. I see one of your future mods is longtubes. Are you going to take the dive??

 

Just like Scott said, all LT's are a PITA to install. But so very worth it. And if I can do it, it can't be that hard. Once you get all the obstacles out of the way, its really not bad. You might as well do the prothane motor mounts while you're in there. And if you're thinking of getting a Saleen or another twin screw SC you might want to go ahead and do the 1/2" drop mounts from JDM or get the prothanes and have them machined down.

 

won't dropping the motor cause the headers to hang lower? i wonder if it could cause an issue since im lowered.

i heard someone say that if the tuner turns off the rear 02 sensors that i wont need extensions. is it true?

 

I don't know about the OBX, Ive got the Kooks headers. I have installed 1/2" lowered prothane mounts in anticipation of the Saleen blower under a stock hood. I think, I'm not sure though, that it was discovered by some here that the regular prothane mounts actually raise the engine and the lowered prothane mounts bring it back to stock position. Scott I think knows more on that subject. But I've got the FRPP springs 1.5" drop along with the LT's and the mounts andI haven't had a problem, though it is low I'll tell you that.

 

When you squeezing the trigger on the Saleen blower old man??



And yes, the regular Prothane mounts actually raise the engine about 1/4".

 

As soon as I sell a couple more houses or a few more lots.

 

Probably never, too broke and too scared of the install because two days with no help would kill me, lol

 

Gary is correct about the standard Prothanes do tend to raise the motor. Like Tom281 said and I would agree it is close to about a 1/4 inch. So going to the 1/2 inch lowered Prothanes would not cause any issue with the OBX longtubes. They are really tucked up pretty tight inside the frame rails. So you won't have any issue going a little lower. You will need to use O2 extensions because the O2 sensors are down in the collectors and the stock wiring is not long enough. You will also need to have the tune adjusted to turn off the rear O2 sensors but you will not need a A/F adjustment going to longtubes. This is what I was told by Brenspeed and I also ran my car on their dyno before and after my longtubes and my A/F was the same before and after. Hope this info helps.
Scott

 

alright, i cant seem to find the lowered mounts anywhere. some of the website posted dont even have them!

 

I don't see them on JDM's site, but you could call them........

Or you can buy the normal ones and cut them yourself.........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06...Q5fAccessories

 

I bought the normal ones and had them machined down 1/2" by a friend of a friend.

Let me emphasize you don't have to have them, but it sure is nice to put them on now while you're in there, cause it sucks to go back in and do it again. I did notice a difference though. I believe it helped my shifter by keeping the engine from moving so much under high rpms. There is too much movement in the stock engine mounts, these give feedback but keep the engine in place better. They are also way less cumbersome.