What some have done is to use a flat "L" piece of aluminum strap / with hose clamps and bolted it to where the evac solenoid bolts to the body right at the strut tower sheetmetal.

 

Here's a good reason why you should put an oil seperator on your car!

 

Well said!

 

Nuff said.

It is my understanding that Seafoam will get rid of this stuff. I havent tried it yet.

Your suppose to disconnect the vacuum line from the brake booster and with the engine running slowly pour the Seafoam in the line.

Guys have said that the car will smoke like crazy for awhile then clears up.

Anyone done this yet?

 

Thanks GT John. Does anyone have a picture showing what he has described. I bought some PCV hose that is braided and will do the job, but I am not sure if it will bend enough. What has everyone used for a hose? Thanks in advance.

 

I figured I would try the Search function and this is what I came up with.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...hlight=seafoam

 

Jerry,

I didn't spring for the Earl's braided hose, just used the 5/8" PCV hose sold by Autozone. I did a loop to avoid kinks and have been running it for ~2500 miles without any problems.

 

Just use the braided hose if you want to dress up your engine bay. Mine is pretty basic so I opted to go with the rubber.

 

Rich, how much oil collection have you got since installing the separator ?

 

A few folks have had issues with the hose collapsing due to the negative crankcase vacuum pressure & heat. You will need hose that:
1) can stand up to petroleum based fuels
2) has a vacuum rating of at least 20in/HG
3) has a low bend-radius (if you plan on 'looping' your vent hose). some higher rated hose has a bend-radius of 6" (meaning you'll need 12" diameter between the loop).
4) can withstand high heat.

I found some hose that meets all these criteria.. just can't find a vendor willing to sell in small increments (ie. 5ft.. instead of having to buy a 25 or 50' reel)

 

I have used the Seafoam before in my trucks and it does an outstanding job. It will smoke like a freight train during the process but thats it doing the job. I have also used Mopar upper cylinder cleaner that is the same stuff but in a spray can. Its alot easier to use and does the same job. With either one you just put it thru a vac line that goes in the intake, a little at a time while the engine is running. Dont kill the engine with too much, the engine needs to run just enough to draw it in. After you have emptied the entire bottle turn off the engine and let it sit for about 15 minutes. This allows it time to break up the deposits in the combustion chambers. Crank the engine and ket it reving around 1500 rpms and watch the smoke. It will smoke for about 10 minutes but just watch the carbon come out. It also does a good job of killing bugs

 

I had it off for a while because the orginial hoses that I used collapsed and just reinstalled it on Saturday so I haven't put enough miles on my car to give you an answer. Some cars collect more oil in these seperators than others.

I remember when I was a kid we used to pour carb & valve cleaner through the carb and it would smoke like a mosquito killer truck. After that you had to change the plugs because they were fouled.

H181 hose will work! It was like .23 a foot ~

 

Rich: I may have to try the NAPA hose you used (I can't find a retailer on the Gates MegaTech1000 hose). Is that the part #? (H181)? can't locate it at the NAPA online catalog. Sweet price. So vacuum isn't pulling the NAPA hose in?

 

I bought it at a local auto supply store here in town. I don't think it's a NAPA product and I looked at the hose and it didn't have the manufacturers name on it. H181 is the part number of the hose. It is vacuum rated at 28 and so far it is holding up fine. I drove my car around yesterday and when I got home I asked my neighbor to check it while I reved the engine and it was fine. Just try and put good sized loops in it.


Going off line for a week because my wife and I leave in the morning for Seattle and vacation. Looks like a rainy week there

 

Can you use Polpropylene fittings? They are good to 220 degrees. I plan on putting it next to the master cylinder. It will be close to the valve cover. Thanks.

 

well.... after removing the tube from the crankcase to intake, i've seen oil on the end near the intake manifold. so i decided to install the separator... did that and went for a 30 mile cruise, im catching oil !!! im glad... theres no way that much oil can be beneficial to combustion.... no more smokey start-ups for me. i stand corrected from my previous quote.

 

You had a problem with smokey startups?

 

couple 2-3 sec., puffs of blue smoke periodically.... it's not a daily driver, but when i take it out, i really drive it hard, long stretch's of empty road. i also went back to a synthetic blend (oil ) instead or royal purple synthetic.

 

Seperator is working great with the H181 hose BUT I did install the Earl's inner support springs for peace of mind.

 

This is one hot topic but to answer it correctly let's look at to major factors. 1. Your car setup and
2. How you drive

If you have a suprcharger or enhanced boost in most cases its a very good idea to have oil separation. The increased airflow really brings oil where it does not belong. In fact on Kenne Bell SC installations it comes with one as standard equipment. I know because I have one and yes it fills up faster than you think especially if you do the John Force thing!

So the next question do you need it on a modded stang that is natural aspirated probably yes because we "Performance Guy & Gals" drive like John Force. If your driving habit is like that of the average person on the road, that car makes build the car for then no you don't need the catch cans. Remember cars makes build cars just good enough. In most cases 3rd party vendors develope performance parts and system that well exceed factory spec's and expectation. This is why I bought a Mustang in the first place to make it better that factory and to unlock it's potential

Bill