New problem ( air leaking into cylender)
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
New problem ( air leaking into cylender)
Well we finished the passenger side Comp Cams Beehive springs install,but when we started on the drivers side after hooking up the air compression tool,we notice air was going down into the oil pan. So now it's time to take the drives side head off. I'll post what we find out tomarrow after removeing the head.This is not good..... What else can go wrong this week! Suppost to have car in St.Augistine,Florida at the end of next week for an up-coming photo shoot for Mustang Enthusiast Magazine feature article.man this just gets worse,If I didn't bad luck ,I would have no luck at all!.......
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
You have got that right! But it might not be as bad as I first thought of, I pm a custom engine builder and told him of what it did and he told me that it might only be air leaking through the gaps in the piston rings,the reason I didn't hear it on the passenger side is the oil dip stick is on the drivers side. He said I wouldn't have been able to get the springs on,because the cylender would have lost to much air to hold valve up. So it's starting to make sence,I think I'm going to go ahead and change out the last three cylenders and see what happens.
James
James
#4
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Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
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You have got that right! But it might not be as bad as I first thought of, I pm a custom engine builder and told him of what it did and he told me that it might only be air leaking through the gaps in the piston rings,the reason I didn't hear it on the passenger side is the oil dip stick is on the drivers side. He said I wouldn't have been able to get the springs on,because the cylender would have lost to much air to hold valve up. So it's starting to make sence,I think I'm going to go ahead and change out the last three cylenders and see what happens.
James
James
Can we assume that your engine ran just fine before the cam swap? If so the answer you received from your engine builder is probably correct. You may try to shoot a little bit of oil in the cylinders before you hit them with the air and it should help them seal up some.
Scott
#6
There will always be some air leaking past the rings even on a perfectly good engine.
Whenever I have changed valve springs I do not use compressed air.
What I do is make sure the cylinder I am working on is at TDC.
Then I remove a spark plug and stuff some small diameter nylon rope into the cylinder to hold the valve shut.
I have done dozens valve spring changes this way and never had a problem. It's simple, cheap and it works.
Whenever I have changed valve springs I do not use compressed air.
What I do is make sure the cylinder I am working on is at TDC.
Then I remove a spark plug and stuff some small diameter nylon rope into the cylinder to hold the valve shut.
I have done dozens valve spring changes this way and never had a problem. It's simple, cheap and it works.
#7
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
It is if you were going to drive it to the shoot.I plan on buying another truck and a enclosed trailer as soon as the car is paid off . I owe six more payments.I have a 24 ft concession trailer that I used to airbrush out of, thinking about either selling it or putting a fold down door on it and useing it as a car trailer.But more than likely I'll just sell it and get a car trailer.
the concession trailer has a four ft removable tongue ,generator,over head air and a RV furnace for heating during winter. two large store front slideing windows,with a large center display window.I'll take the airbrush equipment out along with the heat press for the shirts.
James
the concession trailer has a four ft removable tongue ,generator,over head air and a RV furnace for heating during winter. two large store front slideing windows,with a large center display window.I'll take the airbrush equipment out along with the heat press for the shirts.
James
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