N/A all the way....
#21
Originally posted by pumpkinfish@January 18, 2006, 5:46 PM
You could go with a stroker kit or a big bore kit.
You could go with a stroker kit or a big bore kit.
.020" over is the safest way to go when rebuilding. The upside to big bores is that the 3.70" bore (vs. stock 3.55 or .020" over 3.57") unshrouds the valves from the sides of the chamber. On a 4V this equates to approx 15-20cfm of extra flow @ .500" lift. Gains would be smaller on a 3V due to the difference in valve seat size/total valve and curtain area. On the whole a big bore will make 20-30rw more than a .020" over rebuild. However, the documented downside to going BB is compromised block rigidity (which leads to ring issues) and minimized gasket sealing area between bores. The gasket issue can cause a motor to hydralock by leaking coolant into the cylinder, as was the case with Ted Schwartz old BB.
Strokers have different issues altogether. A stock (3.55") stroke 4.6 @ BDC will allow the skirt of a piston to barely peak out of the bottom of the block. With a 3.70-3.75" stroker crank, roughly 1/3 or more of the skirt of the piston hangs below the cylinder sleeve/block. This causes instability that can lead to piston skirt scoring after as little as a few thousand miles. The increased stroke also increases side load on the rods, puts added stress on the rod bolts, and the 4340 forged Kellogg 2" radiused chevy journal cranks are only rated to 750HP or 7500rpm (by Kellogg) vs. a stock forged Cobra crank which can handle 1400HP+ and 9000rpm unmodified.
Unfortunately unlike the earlier pushrod windsor motors, we really can't add inches safely. Your best bet, should you really want more cubes, would be a 5.4. Ed Olin Ford engineer had a ~400rw naturally aspirated 3V 5.4 in his 96GT over two years ago. The motor had a forged bottom end (spun to 6900rpm), shorty stock intake, upgraded VT/springs, and more lift on the exhaust side.
#22
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Originally posted by Vegasjay@January 19, 2006, 1:00 AM
Stock= 49 Ibs +/-
Aluminum (moddified FRPP unit)= 18 Ibs +/-
Stock= 49 Ibs +/-
Aluminum (moddified FRPP unit)= 18 Ibs +/-
#23
Originally posted by Vegasjay@January 19, 2006, 3:00 AM
Stock= 49 Ibs +/-
Aluminum (moddified FRPP unit)= 18 Ibs +/-
Stock= 49 Ibs +/-
Aluminum (moddified FRPP unit)= 18 Ibs +/-
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Curious as to why you have a 91 octane (Cali) tune when you live in WI?
The higher price for 93 is also detrimental to the pocket book when I'm in 'daily driver' mode, but it's not that big an issue since I don't drive the car all that often....
What gains would come with switching to 93 vs. 91?
thanks for all the input....I thought this was a dead topic and then it reappeared....
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hags1
#25
Originally posted by max2000jp@January 19, 2006, 3:10 AM
Thanks. My goal is to remove 100lbs off the car. Right there is roughly 30. Next add a BMR K-member and Corbeau seats and I should be pretty close.
Thanks. My goal is to remove 100lbs off the car. Right there is roughly 30. Next add a BMR K-member and Corbeau seats and I should be pretty close.
you have to navigate their site to find it though.
http://modularmustangracing.com/
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Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel 12Lbs. instead of 28
#28
Originally posted by nonsensez9@January 19, 2006, 10:31 PM
anyone have high compression pistons?
anyone have high compression pistons?
CP, Diamond, JE, etc. all have them or will make them for you should you need a custom application.
#29
Originally posted by hags1@January 19, 2006, 8:38 AM
Mostly due to availability...91 is easier to find around here then 93.
The higher price for 93 is also detrimental to the pocket book when I'm in 'daily driver' mode, but it's not that big an issue since I don't drive the car all that often....
What gains would come with switching to 93 vs. 91?
thanks for all the input....I thought this was a dead topic and then it reappeared....
hags1
Mostly due to availability...91 is easier to find around here then 93.
The higher price for 93 is also detrimental to the pocket book when I'm in 'daily driver' mode, but it's not that big an issue since I don't drive the car all that often....
What gains would come with switching to 93 vs. 91?
thanks for all the input....I thought this was a dead topic and then it reappeared....
![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
hags1
Right around 4 degrees of timing can be added going from 91-93 or up to ~8-12rwhp and tq.
#31
yeah i made my driveshaft. you will need to get a ford racing shaft for a 2003-up ranger. it comes complete with ujoints and cradles fully assembled. have it shortened 9" exactly and rebalanced. change the companion flange to the frpp 03-04cobra style. i figured this out one day while looking at a truck at the dealer. ranger has the same trans&rear as the mustang. heck the old fox body cars and rangers shared a ton of stuff and the new ones aren't any different. we use to do 5lug conversions by using ranger front rotors and axles from an LTD2. cheap easy way to do it. and all factory parts. i weighed my shaft and got 16.5lbs on my scale. the stock was 42.5lbs. it made a .2sec difference in my car track tested. although it was almost stock then so it may not gain as much on a s/c or n2o car. it's made from 6061t6 aluminum and no doubt will handle 400-500hp. anything above that and call JPC or BMR.
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