MGW Shifter Feedback Thread!
#221
#225
I had a chance to drive my 'Stang some more this weekend. I made a few adjustments to my shifter. I moved the handle block 180 degrees so it is in front instead of behind the shifter base. I also dropped the 3/8-16 handle down as far as it would go on the insulated sleeve. I like this setup much better. The shifter is a lot closer to the front of the car, but it seems much easier to move through the gears. I am a tall guy -- 6'4", so I am speculating the handle was just too far back for me with the handle block toward the back of the car.
Also, I found a slightly bigger white Hurst type shift **** by Lokar for the 3/8 - 16 handle. The Hurst **** just felt very small and it is smaller in diameter than the stock ****. The Hurst **** is 1 3/4" and my new **** is 2". Not much, but you can tell the difference. Also, the two ***** are identical, except for the stop nut. The shifter patterns on the ***** are even the same font. As for the stop nut, I didn't use it, so it didn't matter. I did have a problem threading the new **** on, but I think that was my fault (cross-thread!). I ended up running a 3/8-16 tap through the **** and it was fine then. I bought it from Summit and the part number is SK-6874.
Also, I found a slightly bigger white Hurst type shift **** by Lokar for the 3/8 - 16 handle. The Hurst **** just felt very small and it is smaller in diameter than the stock ****. The Hurst **** is 1 3/4" and my new **** is 2". Not much, but you can tell the difference. Also, the two ***** are identical, except for the stop nut. The shifter patterns on the ***** are even the same font. As for the stop nut, I didn't use it, so it didn't matter. I did have a problem threading the new **** on, but I think that was my fault (cross-thread!). I ended up running a 3/8-16 tap through the **** and it was fine then. I bought it from Summit and the part number is SK-6874.
#226
After adjusting my MGW 6 times in a 1 week period, I finally hit my sweet spot. 8 turns, the shaft sticking out of the bottom an inch and the shifter bracket slightly offset to the drivers side. PERFECT NOW, and seems to be getting smoother. off setting the shifter bracket to the passenger's side seems to be a little more comfortable going into second gear.
#230
we have had a few problems but that is the great thing about this forum. i wanted to get great feedback and in turn provided a price break on the first run.
let me tell you it was definitely worth it. if i had rushed to market and made hundreds or thousands of these shifters i would have some major headaches.
thanks to customer feedback we have pin ponited the design flaws and areas that need improvement all of which are in the works or already solved.
1. the handle nuts were sticking out too far and rubbing the boot. i shortened tham and recessed them into the block more.
2. the bushings were too tight of a fit. new ones being made to replace give a little more play but still precise.
3. springs were just a bit too strong so new progressive springs are now used . still positive return to center without as much effort.
its getting close now thanks again guys!!!
george
#231
Shelby GT350 Member
George , #1 sounds like a good idea shortening the nuts and recessing them in the block. Are you planning on sending out the new ones for those of us where the current ones rub the boot ?
#233
for those that really need them they can call us and we can add it. it really is not necessary as long as you just flip the bracket and have the nuts on the passenger side.
regards
george
#234
regards
george
#235
I just flipped mine and it works perfect....MGW logo is up side down now, but that doesnt really bother me, can't see it anyway......besides,,If george starts making more brackets just to correct the LOGO being upside down, he won't have time to make more shifter shanks and *****....
#237
A local shop did the install while I was out of town and I assume they installed the stops which I ordered with the shifter and they did not install the rubber shifter boot. how can I tell if they installed the shift stops? why is it recomended that we not use the stops? and is the rubber boot included in the kit or is that the ford piece. either way where do I get a new one and george I need a new set of instructions as well since the shop tossed them.
#238
You don't need the instructions if you check out Taco Bill's excellent installation guide!
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=63236
to Taco Bill. Now if only I could convince him to come up from San Diego to install mine!!
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=63236
to Taco Bill. Now if only I could convince him to come up from San Diego to install mine!!
#239
A local shop did the install while I was out of town and I assume they installed the stops which I ordered with the shifter and they did not install the rubber shifter boot. how can I tell if they installed the shift stops? why is it recomended that we not use the stops? and is the rubber boot included in the kit or is that the ford piece. either way where do I get a new one and george I need a new set of instructions as well since the shop tossed them.
Yes, the rubber boot is included with the kit. If in fact your installer did not install the rubber boot, then if you lift up your shifter boot, you should see the silver brackets as noted in the attached picture. Those are the shift stops...
George recommends not installing the stops, since the factory trans has built in shift stops. These can lead to a "false sense of security" when it comes to forcing a shift into gear. (like that is an issue with this shifter...... )
Mike
#240
Anyway, I know you or anyone here can install this shifter. You only need some basic hand tools mentioned in the write-up. Just take it one step at a time and don't rush it. Before you know it, you'll be done!