It doesnt go into fuse number 13. I was just taking a guess. Ill have to look at my fuse box in the morning to know for sure.

 

well yeah 2 relay failures

 

the relay itself is waterproof, but the pin connections are not

get one like the one I got

 

use the same wiring that came with the meziere kit, just cut out the relay and match it to the same pins on the new relay

 

there are no switched power sources in the engine fuse box to tap into. IF there were the thing isn't going to fit. Been there done that.

 

Its fuse number 40

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../august068.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../august067.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../august066.jpg

 

see above links for pics. Ive been running it this way for 3 months with no problems. The only time I ran the battery down was listening to the radio while waxing it and forgetting that the water pump was on with the radio.

 

Interesting, thanks

 

So some of you are using this add-a-fuse method and some are tapping into wires that go into the fuse box for the relay switch on power?

Where do we attach the main pump power wires?

Actual pictures would help since I'm quite pathetic at these sort of things - I think some of you are realizing this

 

The main pump power wires attach to the relay (+12) and to ground. The relay's +12v supply that gets switched to the pump is what I think you're referring to...I was going to attach mine to the main battery lead on the rear of the Power Distribution Box.

 

Was your ignition key on or off? The reason I ask is because the radio remains on for a limited time with the key off until the door is opened. Judging by the description of fuse #40, I don't think it would stay "hot" with the key off like the radio does.

 

Where do you attach the ground wire from the pump ?

Sorry for these stupid question but I'm a n00b at this.

 

NP! It doesn't really matter where as long as it's grounded. I haven't decided yet. I was looking at the ground wires mounted on the strut tower and the ground wires attached to the rad support in front of the Power Distribution Box. I'm leaning towards the later. Probably run the two pump wires to the relay and then route both ground wires around and under the PDB and add them to the ground wires on the rad support.

 

I've been told by several other forum members thats its best to ground straight to the battery and that you can hide the relays and wiring on the fender next to the battery to make it looks as though its not even there.

 

I'd agree with that when it comes to grounding audio equipment but I don't see the necessity in doing that for other electrical equipment. As long as your ground point doesn't introduce any significant resistance back to the battery, it should be fine IMO.

 

Do I have to use a T-tap for the pump +12V power supply?

 

Not if you're using the wiring kit with the relay. It comes with a T-tap but that's for use with the ignition-on sense wire to energize the relay. That's what some used to tap into one of the 2 red wires entering the Power distribution box. Others used the add-a-circuit fuse thingy to energize the relay.
The instructions say you can wire it up without the relay but it draws quite a bit a juice. The inline fuse is a 20A so that would likely overload most any circuit.

If you're going to buy the waterproof relay & socket and wire it yourself with an add-a-circuit fuse thingy, then no, you won't need a t-tap. Just wire, 14ga for the main +12v source and pump circuit and 18ga for the add-a-circuit to relay coil and coil to ground, ring terminals, the add-a-circuit and a 20A inline waterproof fuse for the main +12v source. You want to fuse it pretty close to the source, whether you draw it from the main battery post or the main battery connection on the Power Distribution Box. The instructions say the alternator output post but that's too hard to get to!

 

Well, step one is complete. I drained coolant, but from the rad only. When I started to remove the pump, I discovered the coolant level wasn't low enough. Examined the hose routing and discovered that it doesn't have a real lower rad hose like the old, old days when you could drain most of the block through the rad. So I did a "don" and swapped pumps as quick as I could. Caught most of in the drain tray.
Man, that bottom bolt sure is a b**** to get at! Only took me about 15 minutes to get it in place. That pulley really should have been designed to be removeable!!!
I had both a 99.5" belt which I bought a week ago and a 99" belt I bought today. The 99.5" left the tensioner in the same place as the OEM belt on the UDs...only about 1/8" rotation from no tension. Tried the 99" and gained about another 3/16" rotation on the tensioner. Get the 99" belt if you have an underdrive crank pulley. Much cheaper too (at my supplier anyway) $32 instead of $55! Like someone said...Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!

 

If I understand you correctly, this is how it's supposed to be wired:



I'm a little confused as to why you think that the add-a-circuit has to be connected to ground. It seems to me that the two connectors that come from the add-a-circuit merely get connected to the relay switch (coil) terminals - I dont even think polarity makes a difference.

 

It's right but the add-a-line only has 1 wire on it, the other relay pin should be grounded