Meziere install and the relay ignition-on sense wire
#43
Originally Posted by LordBritish
get one like the one I got
#44
Originally Posted by LordBritish
Found a page with Hella and Omron waterproof relays:
http://www.route66supply.com/store/page85.html
What sort of wires should I use?
http://www.route66supply.com/store/page85.html
What sort of wires should I use?
#45
Originally Posted by FireFighterHill
It doesnt go into fuse number 13. I was just taking a guess. Ill have to look at my fuse box in the morning to know for sure.
#46
#47
Originally Posted by dustindu4
there are no switched power sources in the engine fuse box to tap into. IF there were the thing isn't going to fit. Been there done that.
#49
So some of you are using this add-a-fuse method and some are tapping into wires that go into the fuse box for the relay switch on power?
Where do we attach the main pump power wires?
Actual pictures would help since I'm quite pathetic at these sort of things - I think some of you are realizing this
Where do we attach the main pump power wires?
Actual pictures would help since I'm quite pathetic at these sort of things - I think some of you are realizing this
#50
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Originally Posted by LordBritish
Where do we attach the main pump power wires?
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Originally Posted by FireFighterHill
see above links for pics. Ive been running it this way for 3 months with no problems. The only time I ran the battery down was listening to the radio while waxing it and forgetting that the water pump was on with the radio.
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Originally Posted by LordBritish
Where do you attach the ground wire from the pump?
Sorry for these stupid question but I'm a n00b at this.
Sorry for these stupid question but I'm a n00b at this.
#54
I've been told by several other forum members thats its best to ground straight to the battery and that you can hide the relays and wiring on the fender next to the battery to make it looks as though its not even there.
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Originally Posted by FireFighterHill
I've been told by several other forum members thats its best to ground straight to the battery and that you can hide the relays and wiring on the fender next to the battery to make it looks as though its not even there.
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Originally Posted by LordBritish
Do I have to use a T-tap for the pump +12V power supply?
The instructions say you can wire it up without the relay but it draws quite a bit a juice. The inline fuse is a 20A so that would likely overload most any circuit.
If you're going to buy the waterproof relay & socket and wire it yourself with an add-a-circuit fuse thingy, then no, you won't need a t-tap. Just wire, 14ga for the main +12v source and pump circuit and 18ga for the add-a-circuit to relay coil and coil to ground, ring terminals, the add-a-circuit and a 20A inline waterproof fuse for the main +12v source. You want to fuse it pretty close to the source, whether you draw it from the main battery post or the main battery connection on the Power Distribution Box. The instructions say the alternator output post but that's too hard to get to!
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Well, step one is complete. I drained coolant, but from the rad only. When I started to remove the pump, I discovered the coolant level wasn't low enough. Examined the hose routing and discovered that it doesn't have a real lower rad hose like the old, old days when you could drain most of the block through the rad. So I did a "don" and swapped pumps as quick as I could. Caught most of in the drain tray.
Man, that bottom bolt sure is a b**** to get at! Only took me about 15 minutes to get it in place. That pulley really should have been designed to be removeable!!!
I had both a 99.5" belt which I bought a week ago and a 99" belt I bought today. The 99.5" left the tensioner in the same place as the OEM belt on the UDs...only about 1/8" rotation from no tension. Tried the 99" and gained about another 3/16" rotation on the tensioner. Get the 99" belt if you have an underdrive crank pulley. Much cheaper too (at my supplier anyway) $32 instead of $55! Like someone said...Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!
Man, that bottom bolt sure is a b**** to get at! Only took me about 15 minutes to get it in place. That pulley really should have been designed to be removeable!!!
I had both a 99.5" belt which I bought a week ago and a 99" belt I bought today. The 99.5" left the tensioner in the same place as the OEM belt on the UDs...only about 1/8" rotation from no tension. Tried the 99" and gained about another 3/16" rotation on the tensioner. Get the 99" belt if you have an underdrive crank pulley. Much cheaper too (at my supplier anyway) $32 instead of $55! Like someone said...Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!
#59
If I understand you correctly, this is how it's supposed to be wired:
I'm a little confused as to why you think that the add-a-circuit has to be connected to ground. It seems to me that the two connectors that come from the add-a-circuit merely get connected to the relay switch (coil) terminals - I dont even think polarity makes a difference.
I'm a little confused as to why you think that the add-a-circuit has to be connected to ground. It seems to me that the two connectors that come from the add-a-circuit merely get connected to the relay switch (coil) terminals - I dont even think polarity makes a difference.