Meziere Electric water pump group buy
So, we will only need one more.
1/11/06, 01:41 PM
#23
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Yes here is my pic of that same thing. BUT another customer did this and he tapped a wire that caused limp home mode. So he moved it to the fuse box. Ours and others has been fine here. There are several "red" wires in this bundle. We used one of the red wires.
HOPE THAT HELPS!
HOPE THAT HELPS!
1/11/06, 01:42 PM
#24
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Originally posted by Tilt@January 11, 2006, 12:35 PM
Don't these things add like 10 RWHP? I thought someone had some dyno results.
Don't these things add like 10 RWHP? I thought someone had some dyno results.
I would like to think that it made more than that, but kinda hard to argue with the readout. I don't regret the install, but it didn't give the "advertised" gains that the manufacturer claimed.
As for the relay, highly recommend using it. BUT... you can save yourselves money by going to the auto parts store and buying a 30a fuel pump relay for about $7.
1/11/06, 02:22 PM
#29
Originally posted by hawgman@January 11, 2006, 12:45 PM
I had a 5hp difference with the pump. I was 299 pre install, and 304 post install.
I would like to think that it made more than that, but kinda hard to argue with the readout. I don't regret the install, but it didn't give the "advertised" gains that the manufacturer claimed.
I had a 5hp difference with the pump. I was 299 pre install, and 304 post install.
I would like to think that it made more than that, but kinda hard to argue with the readout. I don't regret the install, but it didn't give the "advertised" gains that the manufacturer claimed.
1/11/06, 02:37 PM
#31
Legacy TMS Member
You guys should wire it the power side of the relay directly to the battery, using an eyelet and a 30a fuse. The trigger side of the relay should go the the ignition source (keyed on & off) or to a toggle switch.
Picking a wire in a harness when you're unsure of it's origin is not a good move; example if the pump draws 25 amps to power it and you have your relay tied into a supply wire that is fused somewhere no doubt buy possibly only with a 20a fuse, you're gonna blow that fuse and then lose power to not only the relay/pump but also whatever else is on that circuit.
Also as a recommendation, you should always fuse the power input side of the relay, no matter if you tie it in at the battery or choose to chance it in a wire harness connection.
Picking a wire in a harness when you're unsure of it's origin is not a good move; example if the pump draws 25 amps to power it and you have your relay tied into a supply wire that is fused somewhere no doubt buy possibly only with a 20a fuse, you're gonna blow that fuse and then lose power to not only the relay/pump but also whatever else is on that circuit.
Also as a recommendation, you should always fuse the power input side of the relay, no matter if you tie it in at the battery or choose to chance it in a wire harness connection.
1/11/06, 02:41 PM
#32
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Originally posted by tom281@January 11, 2006, 3:40 PM
Picking a wire in a harness when you're unsure of it's origin is not a good move; example if the pump draws 25 amps to power it and you have your relay tied into a supply wire that is fused somewhere no doubt buy possibly only with a 20a fuse, you're gonna blow that fuse and then lose power to not only the relay/pump but also whatever else is on that circuit.
Picking a wire in a harness when you're unsure of it's origin is not a good move; example if the pump draws 25 amps to power it and you have your relay tied into a supply wire that is fused somewhere no doubt buy possibly only with a 20a fuse, you're gonna blow that fuse and then lose power to not only the relay/pump but also whatever else is on that circuit.
1/11/06, 02:51 PM
#33
I concur. But instead of going to the battery, I went to the stud on the rear part of the fuse box (where the battery cable connects).
1/11/06, 02:57 PM
#34
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by rhoover2@January 11, 2006, 4:31 PM
Now I need the shorter belt for the UDP's. Anyone have a part number for it?
Now I need the shorter belt for the UDP's. Anyone have a part number for it?
1/11/06, 03:00 PM
#35
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
I plan on using a fuse add-a-line directly from the engine bay fuse box to get my power. Don't be tapping into stuff unless you enjoy engine failsafe mode. Fuse add-a-lines make me happy, they cost like $10 but you need to buy a fuse harness anyway. Might as well do it right.
1/11/06, 03:42 PM
#38
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Here is a pic of my relay wire up. I was the guy having the failsafe problem as you may recall.
The white wire goes to fuse 42 using a fuse tap (thanks to Blazing_Saddles who posted this originally) and is the relay "trigger" wire. The red wire is the power source to the relay and is fused. I also left the fuse in the weatherpack harness with the blue and black wires.
The white wire goes to fuse 42 using a fuse tap (thanks to Blazing_Saddles who posted this originally) and is the relay "trigger" wire. The red wire is the power source to the relay and is fused. I also left the fuse in the weatherpack harness with the blue and black wires.
1/11/06, 04:05 PM
#39
Originally posted by RPM@January 11, 2006, 2:45 PM
Here is a pic of my relay wire up. I was the guy having the failsafe problem as you may recall.
The white wire goes to fuse 42 using a fuse tap (thanks to Blazing_Saddles who posted this originally) and is the relay "trigger" wire. The red wire is the power source to the relay and is fused. I also left the fuse in the weatherpack harness with the blue and black wires.
Here is a pic of my relay wire up. I was the guy having the failsafe problem as you may recall.
The white wire goes to fuse 42 using a fuse tap (thanks to Blazing_Saddles who posted this originally) and is the relay "trigger" wire. The red wire is the power source to the relay and is fused. I also left the fuse in the weatherpack harness with the blue and black wires.