Took the plates to a welder friend of mine. He is going to weld the holes shut for $20

be done monday.

I thought of many different ways to seal them up but in the end it always concerned me that there was even a remot possibility of something coming loose and ruining the motor.

I still wonder what would happen if the holes were left open and the end was just capped off. If you think about it the mixture will be rushing through the plates very quickly anyway, I don't think it would actually cause much trouble. interesting anyway.

In the end my plates will have cost me about $40

I would say that is a good deal anyway

 

I think I'll wait to see how yours hold up before attempting something like this. Keep us posted.

 

Good luck.

 

subscribed.... this looks interesting

 

I gutted mine this last spring. I just jb welded the ends. I left holes between runners open. I haven't had any problems since.

 

I was wondering what would happen if you left the holes! How did you get the middle rails out? the ones that are held in by rivots that are located between the #2 and #3, and #6 and #7 runners?

 

Welding them up is probably the best method, sounds like it was pretty cost effective in your case. Opening the ports up to match those on the intake manifold would probably be a good idea while you're at it.

Once you complete the process would you be kind enough to report back as to how it impacted your fuel economy? I noticed a difference, but couldn't tell if that had to do with the type of driving I was doing. I haven't had the opportunity to take it out for a long trip yet. Probably won't for awhile. (Had the fuel pump tsb fixed and discovered a leak after filling the tank).

 

I will do my best. I have not had a working fuel gauge for 3 months. just got the car back on friday and dynoed for baslines but have not been watching the gauge (habit) nor do I have the info center. but I can log my miles and estimate.

 

I drilled out the rivets, then jb welded those holes as well.

 

ok, so i know these help the flow right...

wasnt that mostly for autos?
how much difference do these make for 5 speeds?
what are the benefits of the delete plates again?

 

The charge motion control plates were designed to help low RPM combustion by introducing a tumbling effect into the air fuel mixture. They are closed at part throttle below 2900 rpm but open at WOT and after 2900 rpm. the problem is that even when they are open they still restrict the intake path and rob a little power from the motor.

I finally tapped the ends of my plates, and put bolts in them. I drilled out the keeper pins in the middle in between the 3,4 6,7 runners and put bolts in there too. I threadlocked all the bolts and installed the plates leaving the holes between the runners open. Car is running fine. Installed the bama tune for cmdp's and all is good. good power, no codes. Although I did run into a wierd air leak sound which I finally drilled down to an O-ring on the #2 injector. I pulled that rail, put a little oil around the O-rings and it seals fine now.

Tuning soon! Pics on the way.

 

thanks faber!

 

Still having trouble posting pics as of last night. Tuned remotely with bamachips today and it is dead on. a/f looks great. looks like the holes between the runners don't matter.

 

Good to hear it worked out for you.
Can any one confirm or deny this:
I heard that if you install CMDP's on a mostly stock car, no exhaust mods , etc, that the CMDP's can actually make your car slower.

I mean when should one consider doing CMDP's and what should be done prior to your car to take advantage of this mod?
THX!

 

I have heard it actually gains accross the entire powerband. I have cams, intake, and headers, and this was the final mod for my N/A setup. I think a stock car would benefit from the delete plates just my 2 cents.

 

I think weld would be the best Idea (Just kidding, didn't read the second page before I posted that)



BTW Don't KB/Whipple/Saleen already include a delete plate in their new intake?

 

I think they all use their own manifolds which basically delete the plates anyway.

 

bump

 

so i think leaving the holes killed my low end power, and maybe a little top end too. car ran ok, but felt sluggish down low. I think it has to do with the firing order and the fact that the number 5 and 6 cylinders fire in sequence hence robbing some air from one another but i am not sure. Anyway I took the plates with the holes between the runners out, ground the rivets off my stockers, and removed only the butterflies leaving the shaft in place and opening the valve so the shaft would take up the least amount of space. Definately feels better now!

So if you want to do this mod for FREE and in less than two hours here is how to do it:

• Pull out the stock plates.
• Use a grinder, dremel, or drill to remove the rivets holding the buttefly valves on the shaft.
• Position shaft so that it blocks the least amount of space in the intake path.
• Re-install.
• Retune.