hi all
anyone use these? i wonder if its good? More noise than stock or just as quiet?

www.hotpart.com

thanks!

 

Some folks have used them with good feedback over on www.fnsweet.com

Type in Lower control Arm in the search function and get all the info you need.

 

I have the Vogtland springs, the LCA's and relocation brackets, waiting on some shocks, all products are awesome and hell of a good place to do business, the LCA's are quiter than the BMR's I took off and gave away.

 

I think they look like a good design. I TRIED to buy from HotPart but thier online order form won't work for non US customers and they wouldn't return my calls so I got BMR LCAs and adjustable control arm brackets from Tillman. It all fits with no issues of any kind.

 

I really would like to get a set of these in the shop to try, but just haven't had the opportunity. Been selling the billet BMR's. I do like the idea of the bushing, I just have never really messed with J&M's stuff... just heard good things.

CR

 

Their fox stuff is semi-knock off of Maximum Motorsports stuff. I vaguely remember hearsay that someone left MM and started up J&M - that was a few years ago. Anyway, I have their LCA and CC plates on my fox. Great quality and no problems in 4 years.

 

Another thing to consider is the J&M uses carbon steel (1010, 1018, 1020) for their control arms. I believe Steeda has some of the strongest using the alloy steel 4130. They both have strengths/weaknesses. I need to brush up on my metallurgy before I expand on the types of steel. Anyone else care to chime in?

 

The problem with 4130 chrome-moly is it MUST be normalized, stress relieved, and heat treated after welding. If those process's are not done or done correctly you end up with a very expensive part that has the same strength as mild steel but the 4130 will also have very brittle welds that tend to crack when stressed. On a side note, 4130 chrome-moly is the same exact weight as 1010, 1018, or 1020 steel when comparing the same tube diameter and wall thickness. The only advantage 4130 has is that you can use thinner wall tubing to achieve the same strength as long as you follow the above steps.

Brian
J&M Products

 

You are exactly right Brian.

There's much more to a control arm than just the material; you have to look at the design too. You probably won't be able to tell the difference between the same control arm made from different materials. I would go with a company that has tested and proven product.

As far as those materials they are all strong carbon steels the last two digits indicate the percent of carbon. Thus the 1010 has 10% carbon and the 4130 has .30 percent. Carbon generally makes a material harder and stronger, but also absorb less energy--which means that under shock or impacts it may be more prone to fracture--but all those materials are so similar that the design is really going to make the difference.

This is why IMO I would go with the J&M part - I did on my fox sometime ago and have not had any problems.

 

How are you guys running J&M with fixed lowers and now a fixed upper taking care of adjusting the pinion angle??

 

J&M LCA = my next mod....

 

you hear anything good about it?

thanks!

 

Yep Lots. Two other forums, most notably 4.0 collective have vendor links to Hotpart.com for group buys. Seem the "polyball" design allows more articulation of the axle on cornering support than fixed bushing designs, with no loss of straight-line launch stiffness. Good reviews from the stuff so far.

 

I have them, they are great. Way better than the bmr ones I used to have

 

i got the LCA and relocation brackets.

that is my next mod!

 

Some photo's of the J&M LCA relocation brackets I've installed on my 06 GT.

 

Got em on now. They are as quiet as stock as far as i can tell. Took about an hour to install total. much more positive take off and seemed to add to understeer a little (figures) also have the rear hellwig swy so now i need bigger tires!..

 

I just put Steeda Ultralites on my car and am putting on Tokico D-Specs next week. The car sits a lot lower (wasn't my intent) but i kinda like it, fills out the wheel well a bit better but i have serious hop/bump stop hitting issues over speed bumps, and a bit of hop/bounce too; kinda hoping that Tockico's will fix that. Am i correct?

Since i'm doing this work, i'm also considering getting the J&M LCAs and relocation brackets...what will this do for me? and will the car sit any lower due to either my shock/strut upgrade and LCAs and relocation bracket? (don't want it to, i think it's perfect now)

Thanks.

 

FWIW....Brain from J&M emailed me that they will have an adjustable UCA in 3-4 weeks and stainless steel brake lines in 2-3 months.

hags1

 

Looks very interesting. I was looking at the B&M piece, but was a little concerned about added noise. This might be the solution.