We'll just agree to disagree. One of the reasons for the terrible wheelhop on these cars, aside from the crappy bushings, is the LCAs are level to the ground. I agree with you that after lowering my car 1.5" the BMR LCAs pointed slightly up, I mispoke there. Hence the relo brakets. If the LCAs are level to the ground, it's pushing the axle towards the rear vs down where you want the power to go...to the tires, not the rear, hence my lower setting. But of course, it all depends on what the person wants out of their car. I want the maximum traction possible for the track. DD would not require that and relo brackets would not necessarily be required.

 

The wheelhop in this car is because of the soft rubber bushings and stamped steel material. My wheel hop was cured when I installed an UCA and lower control arm. I didn't change anything in terms of suspension geometry. Email Steeda and see what they say in regards to the position of where the lca's should sit

 

Ingalls Engineering also offers adjustable, lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar for the rear of your S197 as well as a rear shock brace, double front stress bar, and its engine torque damper set-up known as The Stiffy.

More choices for you!

Tony D

 

I've never ever had any wheel hop, regardless of my power levels or suspension components.

 

I don't know what to tell you. My car wheel hopped at the track and on the street with the OEM control arms.

 

Yeah, I noticed mine within the first couple of days of owning the car.

 

Noticed wheel hop as well when accelerating over severe bumps.