ok, estimated. Stock is 300, have read that manuals push around 310 at the flywheel. Flowmasters add around 6 rwhp (Horsepower TV), JLT CAI and tune is ranges at 28-34, I estimated 30 flywheel. UD pulleys add around 8-12 I estimated 10. So 6 + 30+ 10 is 46 more and figure in a estimate of Ford underestimated the real flywheel at 300, I estimated 350 flywheel. Figure 15% loss due to drive train and it is around 300 rwhp. This is inline with other folks that have the same mods. I am planning on getting a real dyno soon and post the results. As for the 4.9 that was quoted as factory from one of the mags. They range from 4.9 to 5.1. I figure with the mods and the new LCA's it should do that. I think I have been fairly conservative in the estimates. Not the bottom range but no overly optimistic either.

 

They advertise this car at 300 HP at the flywheel.
See many dynos of 268-278 RWHP on stock car.
Why would you say 350 rwhp? stock?
that is about 75 HP more than reality of a stock 4.6 3V!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(uberPony @ April 27, 2006, 4:55 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
They advertise this car at 300 HP at the flywheel.
See many dynos of 268-278 RWHP on stock car.
Why would you say 350 rwhp? stock?
that is about 75 HP more than reality of a stock 4.6 3V!
[/b][/quote]

He didn't, he estimated 350 at the flywheel with mods and 300 rwhp with mods which is about right for the mods he has. Although in theory adding the hp each mod advertises would be nice, my understanding is that it doesn't really work that way. When combining mods, it's best to get a dyno for a better estimate :-) of what the combined mods give you.

 

I really went also with the post here. THere was a link of people's HP with mods. I checked several others that had the same or similar mods as I have done and it ran around 300 rwhp on theirs. I did the reverse of the HP loss due to drivetrain loss and that is where I estimated the 350. Some of the above numbers were added together and it also ran close to the 350. The HP gains on the mufflers were rwhp estimate from Horsepower TV dyno. Not sure how JLT estimated their CAI's and Tune, MM& FF did a eval on it using a RWHP rating of 28 more HP (not sure of the octane tune used). Steeda advertised their pulleys at I assumed flywheel hp. So if the hp on the steeda is 8 to 12, rwhp would be 7 and 10 respectfully. SO using minimum RWHP numbers: 6 + 28 + 7=41 rwhp gaine, now for max numbers 6+30+10=46 rwhp gain. With a estimated base number (again MM & FF numbers 271 rwhp {this is after removing the carbon trap and a modest tune to 91 octane and factory air box{) Adding 271+ 41= 312 rwhp. SO what does all this mean....not a darn thing, but my estimate. Soon I will find a decent dyno near me and I will post the real deal...good or bad. I had to estimate something....I tried to approach it from several "know" sources and estimated from there.

BTW scramblr...your mods are similar to mine, what does your car dyno to? both flywheel and rwhp.

Back to my original post. I really love my LCA's and brackets from BMR. Jason and Lee did a great job helping me out.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(traffic142 @ April 27, 2006, 11:01 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>

BTW scramblr...your mods are similar to mine, what does your car dyno to? both flywheel and rwhp.

Back to my original post. I really love my LCA's and brackets from BMR. Jason and Lee did a great job helping me out.
[/b][/quote]

No dyno's around here.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]

And I can't wait for my BMR stuff to get here. Unfortunately BMR won't/can't ship to me so I had to go through a distributor which has been waiting to get the parts from BMR. Hopefuly they get the rest of them this week and I can have my stuff in 2-3 weeks. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

 

Take note that the relocation brackets are very close to the ground. I might move the control arms up to the next hole and cut off the bottom of the brackets.

 

Well yeah, you could do that, but are you/have you lowered your car? You need to make sure the control arms are angled down towards the back, otherwise you are defeating the purpose of the relocation brackets. And yes, it is lower, but I have not heard of anyone having clearance issues...At least not from anyone not off roading.

 

And Steeda doesnt have a good record? Steeda was the first to market with 05 parts and has years of proven racing wins behind them. I was considering BMR parts for my car but became a skeptic due to a claim they make that seems to be false to me.

In one of their ads in 5.0 Mustang they show a guy with an 05 named Mike Zamboni with an 05 Mustang. They claim a 1.33 60ft time from that car at Bradenton NMCA. Look him up on the NMCA website. He is a only a 12 second car! A car that cuts consistent 1.3 60fts is a low 9 second to high 8 second car! At least the cars Steeda puts in their ads actually run in the 8's and 9's with their suspension! BMR's numbers just dont add up.


Tony

 

One post, and it's a shill for Steeda... now you've made me even more of a skeptic of Steeda. Congrats!!

Don't worry... I was never a fan of Steeda's overpriced bling anyway. Nothing on my car is from Steeda, and I intend for it to stay that way.

BTW, isn't Jupiter, FL less than an hour from Steeda's headquarters? Speaking of adding things up... hmmmmm.

 

Its just over an hour actually, but only if traffic is ok.

I'm not worried, I don't care what you think of Steeda or their bling.

Fact is, if you pick up a 5.0 Magazine and look at BMR's ad, then look the guy they use on NMCA's website. Hes a 12 second car cutting 1.33 60ft times. Sorry, but thats

Anyone can figure that out if they do the simple research I did. Its all there for anyone to see if they just look.

Tony

 

So, how long have you worked for Steeda?

 

Are relocation brackets necessary for a mild drop of 1" in the rear?

 

yeah I'm about to drop the rear about an inch as well (Roush rear springs) could I still use the relocation brackets??

 

The deal is that when you lower the car, you change the geometry of the LCAs. The LCAs become almost parallel to the ground which causes the torque to push back on the rear axel vs down to the ground. The relocation brackets cause the LCAs to angle down on the axle hence pushing the power down on the tires. Pretty much comes down to what you want out of your car.

 

Actually when you lower the car, the LCA's angle up towards the rear. The relocation brackets bring the control arms down to level (or near level).

 

hi all,

wuts weird is that the shelby GT is lowered and no relocation braceketts.

i also looked under the GT500KR and it also has no relocation brackets and the LCA's are angled down...

 

That depends on how much the car is lowered. I used Steeda Ultralites and it made the LCAs parallel to the ground. Go more agressive, i.e., the Pro-Kit, and yes, the LCAs will point up towards the rear. As you can see in my pictures above, I chose the lower setting on the Relo brackets and my LCAs are pointing down towards the ground in relation to the axle. I never tried the higher setting, so not sure what impact that would have had. I'd guess I'm getting better downward force at my current setting.

 

Now I see that you say it all depends on how much u lower your car. I am installing the Roush rear springs to level off the car. I believe its only a 1 inch drop at the most so in that instance. My next mod should be the relocation brackets?? I dont go to the strip or anything so mines is just a light to light warrior hee hee

 

The oem control arms on a stock car are level. I don't know how lowering your car made them level??? From the looks of the pics above, you should be running the top setting. You want the control arms to be level.

 

I know this isn't what the thread is about but.....I have ultralites on my car and after checking the position of my stock lca's last night they seem level to me. I guess it's cause the ultralites are such a mild drop.