Installed Champion Plugs
#81
Agree, don't use WD40. Another product I have used is from Walter called Bolt Out. Walter makes alot of industrial products like Slapshot which is a degreaser in a can. In my opinion, Walter makes some very high quality stuff. The bolt out has amazing capilary action and great for loosening up rust, carbon, what ever.
Follow the TSB to the letter and make sure the engine is warm, not hot, not cold. The link to the video in this thread show it very well.
Follow the TSB to the letter and make sure the engine is warm, not hot, not cold. The link to the video in this thread show it very well.
#82
You can get the double platinum champion plugs for $6.82 a piece at www.clubplug.net Just ordered a set of 8 for $63.51. If you search for an 07+ stang they will be $11 per plug because they are iridium not platinium.
#84
You can get the double platinum champion plugs for $6.82 a piece at www.clubplug.net Just ordered a set of 8 for $63.51. If you search for an 07+ stang they will be $11 per plug because they are iridium not platinium.
#86
If you search for 06 Mustang, it doesn't show them at all. Also, for 05 it shows them as double platinum, and for 07 it shows them as iridium. Same part #. What up wit dat?
Last edited by Rash; 3/22/08 at 06:42 PM.
#87
That's got to be a mistake considering how other info is wrong across the years. Let us know how it goes.
You can get the double platinum champion plugs for $6.82 a piece at www.clubplug.net Just ordered a set of 8 for $63.51. If you search for an 07+ stang they will be $11 per plug because they are iridium not platinium.
#89
Been reading up on this for a little while. From what I can see people are generally unhappy with these and the brisk in the mustang.
One post I read about the champions stated they were messed up out of the box with a bent electrode. Apparently they are not correct gap out of the box?
I'm about to decide to just change the Motorcraft ones every 20K with anti-seize.
They probably put the "100K" plugs in to avoid this problem.
*Edit: I've found a few posts where people are happy with the champions. Also the clubplug price has magically *updated*.
One post I read about the champions stated they were messed up out of the box with a bent electrode. Apparently they are not correct gap out of the box?
I'm about to decide to just change the Motorcraft ones every 20K with anti-seize.
They probably put the "100K" plugs in to avoid this problem.
*Edit: I've found a few posts where people are happy with the champions. Also the clubplug price has magically *updated*.
Last edited by randy_tho; 3/22/08 at 11:36 PM.
#90
08-1-9 is the latest TSB released for the spark plug removal concern - it supersedes the other TSB and the video. They want you have the engine cold and use Motorcraft carburetor cleaner PM-3 instead of the penetrating oil because even though the material on the plugs looks like rust it’s combustion carbon and the carb cleaner will work better to break it down. I suggest the Motorcraft carburetor cleaner because it’s more of a thin oily liquid that won’t evaporate like other carb cleaners. I have done a few F-150’s that had under 50K miles and was able to get all the plugs out. I like to leave the plugs soak overnight if possible.
#91
I pulled my plugs today. I took it out for a little drive to get it warm, then I loosened each plug about 1/4 turn. They felt like they would going to come out fine (no screeching or major resistance) but just to make sure I sprayed some PB Blaster in each hole and let it set for an hour while I ate lunch.
After lunch they came out almost effortlessly thanks to the PB Blaster. The was some carbon on the plugs, but it wasn't too bad and the PB Blaster softened the carbon so much that I was able to wipe most of it off with a rag. I soaked the plugs in brake cleaner for while and the small about that couldn't be wiped off was removed. The plugs looked fine so I just put some nickel anti-seize on them and put them back in.
I think I'll pull them again in another 15k miles and see how they are doing.
After lunch they came out almost effortlessly thanks to the PB Blaster. The was some carbon on the plugs, but it wasn't too bad and the PB Blaster softened the carbon so much that I was able to wipe most of it off with a rag. I soaked the plugs in brake cleaner for while and the small about that couldn't be wiped off was removed. The plugs looked fine so I just put some nickel anti-seize on them and put them back in.
I think I'll pull them again in another 15k miles and see how they are doing.
#92
I pulled my plugs today. I took it out for a little drive to get it warm, then I loosened each plug about 1/4 turn. They felt like they would going to come out fine (no screeching or major resistance) but just to make sure I sprayed some PB Blaster in each hole and let it set for an hour while I ate lunch.
After lunch they came out almost effortlessly thanks to the PB Blaster. The was some carbon on the plugs, but it wasn't too bad and the PB Blaster softened the carbon so much that I was able to wipe most of it off with a rag. I soaked the plugs in brake cleaner for while and the small about that couldn't be wiped off was removed. The plugs looked fine so I just put some nickel anti-seize on them and put them back in.
I think I'll pull them again in another 15k miles and see how they are doing.
After lunch they came out almost effortlessly thanks to the PB Blaster. The was some carbon on the plugs, but it wasn't too bad and the PB Blaster softened the carbon so much that I was able to wipe most of it off with a rag. I soaked the plugs in brake cleaner for while and the small about that couldn't be wiped off was removed. The plugs looked fine so I just put some nickel anti-seize on them and put them back in.
I think I'll pull them again in another 15k miles and see how they are doing.
#93
Did mine yesterday. 37K miles, engine cold (probably about 55 in the garage). Loosened the plugs, sprayed in some knock-off WD40 and waited about an hour. Three of them came out fairly easily, the rest screeched. I wiped off the oily mess with a rag, cleaned them up on a wire wheel, coated them with the nickel anti-seize, and put them back in.
Actually not as bad as I was expecting.
Actually not as bad as I was expecting.
#95
That is not a problem, if they are going to come appart it takes more than a quarter turn for that to happen. I know, I did it on my F150.
#97
08-1-9 is the latest TSB released for the spark plug removal concern - it supersedes the other TSB and the video. They want you have the engine cold and use Motorcraft carburetor cleaner PM-3 instead of the penetrating oil because even though the material on the plugs looks like rust it’s combustion carbon and the carb cleaner will work better to break it down. I suggest the Motorcraft carburetor cleaner because it’s more of a thin oily liquid that won’t evaporate like other carb cleaners. I have done a few F-150’s that had under 50K miles and was able to get all the plugs out. I like to leave the plugs soak overnight if possible.
Thanks for the info, I guess I'll be stopping by my local dearlership for the carb cleaner.
#99
I have some Liquid Wrench and Carb cleaner in the garage. Which one do you think would work better? I'm going to tackle the job tomorrow, and would like to let one of them soak overnight... I'm just not sure which one.
#100
I'm thinking about changing my plugs as well (2005 GT with 40k miles on it, mostly stock). Are there any advantages to getting the '07 iridium plugs vs. the '05/'06 platinum plugs? Are they completely compatible? Anything else I should keep in mind with this change?