I would have to see if I still have it, that was a while ago. It really wasn't hard to figure out by looking at the picture of the part and then measuring in the head to figure out how long things should be. The key was finding out that you tap the ground electrode 9X1mm. If you have a lathe capable of cutting metric threads that would be excellent, otherwise you would have to try using a die which is not the best, most accurate way. Did you watch the video? That really shows and explains how this tool works.

 

the plugs are 16.23 on the Champion web site now

 

I talked to my dealer and they said it would $250 to change the plugs. They also said there haven't been any problems with mustangs - Expeditions and F 150's have the issues.

 

Video is gone. I trying watching it, dl'ing it and google'ing. Also tried on 2 other PC's. Does anyone else have the video?

 

That is weird, I watched it last night?

 

I just went to the link posted and the video is there. Did you click where it says "high bandwidth"?

 

im watching it right now.....

 

holy crap....

that removal tool is such a rip off for $250

theres not much to it at all...

i really dont want to, but i guess i better pull my plugs and try to lube them up too...

i only have 20k on the car, but its an 05 so they have been in there for a while.

CRAP!!!!!

 

Follow the link the scroll to the right and clikc on Highbandwidth the vid shuld then open in WM

 

I keep getting this error when I try to watch any video on that site:

 

Sorry guys, but I just don't get it. ~$8 for stock plugs every 100k miles, <$15 for a jar of anti seize and 20 minutes of your time every 3-6 months vs $130 in plugs that give you no performance enhancement. I just ain't seeing it....

 

First off no plug last for 100k I do not care what any manufacture says. I have seen plugs from Ford that have been left in for the 100k mark and there is nothing left of them most of the time and I am in awe that the vehicle even runs. Also I have seen truck that cannot get the plugs out after the 100k mark. Ford has a serious design flaw in the spark plug and the simple replacement of them for a plug that will not come apart not may or may not come apart is certainly worth the piece of mind. Using Anti Seize does not absolutely guarantee that the plug still will not come apart. In 3-6 months the plugs can develop enough carbon to not come out in one piece.

 

Several people, with much less than 100k have had their plugs stick in the engine at a cost over $600+ to get fixed. Better safe than sorry. I'm waiting to be able to get them for under $75, but I will definitely do it on both of mine. It's cheap insurance. And as stated above, these plugs are garbage at 100k. They're garbage well before that. Honestly, if they're sticking, that means they're covered in carbon and not getting the best performance. So you're losing gas mileage. The extra money you're saving with not changing your plugs, you're losing (and then some) because of the loss in gas mileage.

 

I’m an IDIOT and a THEIF because I am a Ford dealer technician - according to the UNIFORMED people that are making the negative posts. I guess it doesn’t matter that I have 20 years of experience, am a Senior Master Ford technician, ASE master certified, took first place out of 40,000 Ford techs in a Ford sponsored technician competency competition, and I serve on a board to give direct input to Ford motor engineers about vehicle problems that we see at the dealership.

Yes the spark plug issue was brought up and they said it was a poor design. So why do you expect the technician to remove the broken spark plugs for free if it is a design issue? (Most dealer techs are paid on a commission system that’s heavily swayed in the dealers favor.) I suppose I could sprinkle some of my twinkle dust on the engine, say Abracadabra and the spark plugs will jump out and I can charge several extra hours of labor, go home to enjoy a cold one while I’m making all of the supposed extra money!

Go ahead and try the court case. I have been to court on our dealers behalf and we have never lost a case yet - by simply telling the truth!

The tool that is pictured is for only removing the spark plugs that have the porcelain come out with the upper part of the plug. If the porcelain says with the broken part in the head – which is the way that most of them break, you need another tool that will be releasd soon. You can force the present tool but you take a chance of breaking the porcelain into the cylinder and causing engine damage. Here is a note from the TSB concerning this.

THIS TOOL IS ONLY DESIGNED TO WORK WITH AN EMPTY GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. IF THE SPARK PLUG CAME APART AS DESCRIBED IN MODE 2, THE PORCELAINCENTER MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR TO FOLLOWING THESE STEPS. IF ATTEMPTS TO REMOVE THE PORCELAINCENTER ARE UNSUCCESSFUL, CONTACT THE TECHNICAL SERVICE HOTLINE FOR ADDITIONAL REPAIR DIRECTION.

 

I can understand your point of view, but why would you go to court on behalf of the dealer when it is a design issue? i agree that you should get paid for your work, but it's Ford that should pay you because it's their design screw up, not mine.

 

Here we go, subscribing, kicking back, watch the show...

Ok, well I'll say something. It's not your fault the Ford choose a poorly designed spark plug, but the fact is, Ford did choose it, so why is it the customers responsibility to pay for it if it breaks? We're not talking about a light bulb here. Just seems it is a faulty part, well, it fails on removal anyway. I guess the problem is, it works great, until it's time to remove it, unlike other warranty TSB's that the part is already faulty before you swap it out. The fact is, the part is faulty, or prone to failure upon removal. Tough to prove in court, though, I'm sure.

Oh well, I pulled mine at 18k and slimed my HT0s with antiseize, so I'm all set.

 

Not defending anyone here at all but the reality is: Many things have a design flaws but last past the Manufactures Warranty period and in the end that is all that matters to the manufacturer. Ford has a 3/36 and 8/80 emissions warranty (federal requirement on emissions). Ford as well as others have stated and installed spark plugs rated at 100k miles which at the time of recommend replacement is out of warranty, so no warranty problem there. The only way that this "design flaw" would be changed or at minimum warranty paid is through a class action suit like the 96-04 Mustangs lower intake manifold with the plastic coolant crossover was shown as a Ford design problem. Odd are the class action Would Fail as Spark Plugs are considered a Wear item like brake pads unlike a coolant crossover.

Basically your options are:
Every 2-3 months pull the plugs clean and coat them and reinstall them which may cause more damage due to the repeated removal and installation of the plugs.

Let them be and hope for the best, but save some extra $$ for the bill, at 50k miles and have them replaced or wait the Ford recommend 100k, unless you have FI or Nitrous in which the plug wont last 100k miles.

Get to know a Ford Tech that does side work and can barrow the extraction tool for a weekend and changed the plugs with him one weekend for a few buck (luckily this option works for me)

Scurrently not a permanent fix for this issue, so in the end we will have to wait and see if Ford or a 3rd party comes up with a real fix to this problem...

 

But Ford's recommendation of 100k is way high. I'd say 50k would be the farthest I would go with them, even if the design was good. The 3V leaves a lot of carbon buildup and you probably start losing performance right about there.

YOU should be paid for fixing the car. But Ford is the one that should be paying you, not us.

 

This whole deal really sucks. I'm sitting at about 48,400 miles - haven't changed plugs yet. BUT - plan to do so next weekend. I'm dreading the potential for problems. Gonna try the slight loosening, drenching in WD40 for 4-6 hrs, then removal/replacement.

Say a prayer for me.

 

afcop,
I've been reading as much as I can about this issue and from what I have gathered WD40 is not a real good choice for this service. AeroKroil is recommended, but if you don't use AeroKroil, it sounds like the best alternative is to use PB Blaster pentetrating oil for the job. PB Blaster is easily found in most autoparts stores and is so much better than WD40 (not even close) it can't really be compared.