heating probs
heating probs
After putting on the E-force, driveshaft, Baer 6p brakes, Koni's and all other stuff it was time hitting track; Thuesday we went to Spa Francorchamps and everything worked fine. The difference between this car and the stock one was amazing; After an number of laps the temperature started to raise. I came in and checked out the cooling system, water was boiling but everything seemed to work as well , so I suppose I need a bigger radiator ? I found one at Ford Racing for 675$ but I also found a Mishimoto at American Muscle for 275$; Any suggestions ??
Last edited by kawazakske; Jul 8, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
This one sold by Shelby (designed and tested by Revan Racing) is supposed to be one of the best out there. No personal experience, but read nothing but good things about it. They also make a dual pass/fan SC intercooler that works wonders on keeping your IATs down.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/05-...diator-p-30113
http://www.lethalperformance.com/05-...diator-p-30113
The single biggest improvement you can make to your cooling system is to “seal” the radiator to the grill by making plates (aluminum is best) that won’t let the air that comes through the grill go anywhere but through the radiator. Stock there is a massive amount of “spillage” around the radiator.
The second best thing you can do is run some hood vents right behind the radiator just like the GT500. This will allow more air to pass through the radiator by reducing the pressure behind it. The car will also go faster. There are people that have grafted the 2010 GT500 vent into their stock GT hood and it works out pretty well. I converted over to a GT500 front end with hood and it made a massive difference with cooling and aerodynamics.
Cervini’s GT500 knock off hood for the GT looks horrible in their ads but looks real nice in person. I may have gone that way if I saw one in real life before I made the GT500 conversion.
The OEM radiator can cool very well. A friend of mine has a full on track car that is barley street legal that makes a touch over 500 at the tires and he is still running the OEM rad and has zero overheating issues.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you do go for a larger (thicker in most cases) rad there is the potential for it to cool the car worse than the stock one. A thicker rad has more resistance and that creates more spillage around the radiator. I know another guy who has this crazy thick radiator out of an FR500C and when he first put it in (track day car) the car ran hotter than with the OEM rad. Only after he sealed the radiator in did it start cooling effectively.
Adding a bottle of Water Wetter is usually good for about 10deg F too.
Good luck.
The second best thing you can do is run some hood vents right behind the radiator just like the GT500. This will allow more air to pass through the radiator by reducing the pressure behind it. The car will also go faster. There are people that have grafted the 2010 GT500 vent into their stock GT hood and it works out pretty well. I converted over to a GT500 front end with hood and it made a massive difference with cooling and aerodynamics.
Cervini’s GT500 knock off hood for the GT looks horrible in their ads but looks real nice in person. I may have gone that way if I saw one in real life before I made the GT500 conversion.
The OEM radiator can cool very well. A friend of mine has a full on track car that is barley street legal that makes a touch over 500 at the tires and he is still running the OEM rad and has zero overheating issues.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you do go for a larger (thicker in most cases) rad there is the potential for it to cool the car worse than the stock one. A thicker rad has more resistance and that creates more spillage around the radiator. I know another guy who has this crazy thick radiator out of an FR500C and when he first put it in (track day car) the car ran hotter than with the OEM rad. Only after he sealed the radiator in did it start cooling effectively.
Adding a bottle of Water Wetter is usually good for about 10deg F too.
Good luck.
Thanks for the tips . Last week my Cervini ram air type IV hood came in. Right now its being painted.
I'm a bit unhappy to hear that the heatextractors on the cervini wont help because they are at the back of the hood instead of the front !
The problem with sealing the radiator is our gouvernement. Every year we've got to take our cars to a garage owned by the gouvernment to check our cars if they are safe inough to drive; If they notice anything you've fixed yourself, even when it 's branded aftermarketstuff , you wont get permission to drive your car unless you fix it back to OEM. (One day, we will move to the States, that's for sure)
Happy they don't know a lot about Mustangs because they aren't officially sold here
I'm a bit unhappy to hear that the heatextractors on the cervini wont help because they are at the back of the hood instead of the front !
The problem with sealing the radiator is our gouvernement. Every year we've got to take our cars to a garage owned by the gouvernment to check our cars if they are safe inough to drive; If they notice anything you've fixed yourself, even when it 's branded aftermarketstuff , you wont get permission to drive your car unless you fix it back to OEM. (One day, we will move to the States, that's for sure)
Happy they don't know a lot about Mustangs because they aren't officially sold here
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