Group Buy - Throttle Body Purchase Ready @ $396!
10/21/05, 01:51 PM
#82
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I have mine installed....Pretty easy to do, just a couple of pointers I'd add to LFP's instructions.
The mahine screws that hold the TPS sensor to the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Remove them very slowly and don't heat them up by going too fast. They will snap off.
The machine screws that also hold the black plastic covering on the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Be careful with these also....they will snap if they get too hot.
When you set the throttle spring tension, make sure the throttle blades have enough tension on them so when you move them with your fingers they go back to the closed position. My spring only needed a 1/8 turn to engage, and I ran it like that for a month and a half, but when I installed my WMS intake I ran into 'Failsafe Engine' mode because I didn't have enough tension on the spring. If you look at the top plastic piece on the spring you'll see that every 180 degree turn can engage the spring. I turned mine a 5/8 turn instead of the 1/8 turn and the 'Failsafe Engine' probelm went away. DO NOT turn the spring more then one full turn though to engage it. I read another post were a throttle body was installed by a shop that turned it like 2 full turns and the spring broke on the guy when he was driving his car.
Besides that the instructions are pretty good.
The true gains of the throttle body are more in the throttle response. If your only adding the throttle body to a stock setup you'll get Andre's h.p. and torque gains. If your adding it to an aftermarket CAI then there are minimal real gains over the stock throttle body. Adding the LFP throttle body to the WMS intake only netted a 2 h.p. gain and a 1 torque gain.....
The factory throttle body isn't all that bad and I probably would of stayed with that had I know the h.p. and torque are improved mostly by the CAI and not the T/B.
hags1
The mahine screws that hold the TPS sensor to the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Remove them very slowly and don't heat them up by going too fast. They will snap off.
The machine screws that also hold the black plastic covering on the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Be careful with these also....they will snap if they get too hot.
When you set the throttle spring tension, make sure the throttle blades have enough tension on them so when you move them with your fingers they go back to the closed position. My spring only needed a 1/8 turn to engage, and I ran it like that for a month and a half, but when I installed my WMS intake I ran into 'Failsafe Engine' mode because I didn't have enough tension on the spring. If you look at the top plastic piece on the spring you'll see that every 180 degree turn can engage the spring. I turned mine a 5/8 turn instead of the 1/8 turn and the 'Failsafe Engine' probelm went away. DO NOT turn the spring more then one full turn though to engage it. I read another post were a throttle body was installed by a shop that turned it like 2 full turns and the spring broke on the guy when he was driving his car.
Besides that the instructions are pretty good.
The true gains of the throttle body are more in the throttle response. If your only adding the throttle body to a stock setup you'll get Andre's h.p. and torque gains. If your adding it to an aftermarket CAI then there are minimal real gains over the stock throttle body. Adding the LFP throttle body to the WMS intake only netted a 2 h.p. gain and a 1 torque gain.....
The factory throttle body isn't all that bad and I probably would of stayed with that had I know the h.p. and torque are improved mostly by the CAI and not the T/B.
hags1
10/22/05, 04:27 PM
#83
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Originally posted by 1st Stang@October 20, 2005, 1:12 PM
Just ordered the TB and C&L/Predator kit yesterday. Should have tomorrow. Talked with Jessie and he was great, very helpful and assuming I get my items tomorrow, great follow-up when we ran into a couple of glitches. Can hardly wait.
Also very happy with the deal I got BTW. Give them a call and I'm sure they'll work with you as well.
Just ordered the TB and C&L/Predator kit yesterday. Should have tomorrow. Talked with Jessie and he was great, very helpful and assuming I get my items tomorrow, great follow-up when we ran into a couple of glitches. Can hardly wait.
Also very happy with the deal I got BTW. Give them a call and I'm sure they'll work with you as well.
Jessie and the team came through IMO. Can be hard to get through on the phone but seems the group will take good care of you. I have no complaints.
10/22/05, 04:36 PM
#84
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Originally posted by hags1@October 21, 2005, 3:54 PM
I have mine installed....Pretty easy to do, just a couple of pointers I'd add to LFP's instructions.
The mahine screws that hold the TPS sensor to the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Remove them very slowly and don't heat them up by going too fast. They will snap off.
The machine screws that also hold the black plastic covering on the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Be careful with these also....they will snap if they get too hot.
When you set the throttle spring tension, make sure the throttle blades have enough tension on them so when you move them with your fingers they go back to the closed position. My spring only needed a 1/8 turn to engage, and I ran it like that for a month and a half, but when I installed my WMS intake I ran into 'Failsafe Engine' mode because I didn't have enough tension on the spring. If you look at the top plastic piece on the spring you'll see that every 180 degree turn can engage the spring. I turned mine a 5/8 turn instead of the 1/8 turn and the 'Failsafe Engine' probelm went away. DO NOT turn the spring more then one full turn though to engage it. I read another post were a throttle body weas installed by a shop that turned it like 2 full turns and the spring broke on the guy when he was driving his car.
Besides that the instructions are pretty good.
hags1
hags1
I have mine installed....Pretty easy to do, just a couple of pointers I'd add to LFP's instructions.
The mahine screws that hold the TPS sensor to the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Remove them very slowly and don't heat them up by going too fast. They will snap off.
The machine screws that also hold the black plastic covering on the factory throttle body have loctite on them. Be careful with these also....they will snap if they get too hot.
When you set the throttle spring tension, make sure the throttle blades have enough tension on them so when you move them with your fingers they go back to the closed position. My spring only needed a 1/8 turn to engage, and I ran it like that for a month and a half, but when I installed my WMS intake I ran into 'Failsafe Engine' mode because I didn't have enough tension on the spring. If you look at the top plastic piece on the spring you'll see that every 180 degree turn can engage the spring. I turned mine a 5/8 turn instead of the 1/8 turn and the 'Failsafe Engine' probelm went away. DO NOT turn the spring more then one full turn though to engage it. I read another post were a throttle body weas installed by a shop that turned it like 2 full turns and the spring broke on the guy when he was driving his car.
Besides that the instructions are pretty good.
hags1
hags1
First, in my case, it really wasn't possible to remove the RB motor. The "silver barrel" mentioned in the instructions was just a cover. I removed only the torx head screws (including those going through the silver motor cover) securing the black gear cover and removed the cover intact. (After releasing the sping tension of course).
Second, I struggled slightly with the spring setting intially and honestly, wasn't even sure I wound it in the correct direction the first time as engine would only start in fail safe mode. After setting spring tension again (5/8 turn, I believe in a counter-clockwise direction if facing the TB motor) engine fired right up and have had no codes with limited driving.
Throttle response seems much improved and linear as compared to the stock TB.
10/23/05, 06:44 AM
#85
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Originally posted by 1st Stang@October 22, 2005, 5:39 PM
Second, I struggled slightly with the spring setting intially and honestly, wasn't even sure I wound it in the correct direction the first time as engine would only start in fail safe mode. After setting spring tension again (5/8 turn, I believe in a clockwise direction if facing the TB motor) engine fired right up and have had no codes with limited driving.
Second, I struggled slightly with the spring setting intially and honestly, wasn't even sure I wound it in the correct direction the first time as engine would only start in fail safe mode. After setting spring tension again (5/8 turn, I believe in a clockwise direction if facing the TB motor) engine fired right up and have had no codes with limited driving.
The CORRECT direction of rotation for engaging the spring (as you are looking at the Throttle Body Motor) is counterclockwise.
Why do I know that? Simple!
First off, after I installed the TB (and subsequently removing and installing the original one), I spent several hours with issues where the PCM was throwing 2104's and 2111's (2111's indicate that the throttle is "stuck open", and 2104's are "Fail Safe Engine Mode-FMEM, and indicate that the strategy employed is a "Forced Idle", meaning it won't operate EXCEPT at idle); I found out that I had been turning the spring clockwise instead of counter clockwise. Once I turned the spring the right way, everything was golden!
Secondly, the instructions say that (which I found out AFTER I figured out I had been turning the spring the wrong way!!
Man, I'm sure glad that there are FAILSAFES for dummies like me!
10/23/05, 10:53 AM
#88
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Originally posted by 2005RedGT@October 23, 2005, 8:41 AM
hags1, did you get a custom tune when dynod those 1-2 hp numbers ?
-Bryan
hags1, did you get a custom tune when dynod those 1-2 hp numbers ?
-Bryan
I'm off to the dyno, after I get my car back from the body shop, to do some fine tuning and see exactly what numbers I'm at. That is as long as I can get there before the snow flys.....I'm running out of time.
I was hoping for a larger increase in h.p. and torque using the better throttle body and CAI, but it's not a direct addition of h.p. and torque from each after market performance part.
If the CAI you go with advertises a 15 or 20 h.p. gain and the throttle body advertises a 15 or whatever h.p. gain don't add them together and expect a 30+ h.p. gain, it doesn't work that way...If your strictly after h.p. per dollar spent, then the $300 or $400 for the throttle body is a bad investment for your performance dollars.
hags1
10/23/05, 01:12 PM
#89
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My point exactely hags1. Sounds like you have not tuned or dynoed and you said there were 1 or 2 hp. Who can even feel that ? 
Let us know how the dyno session goes.
-Bryan
Let us know how the dyno session goes.
-Bryan
10/23/05, 02:32 PM
#90
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I'm sorry....the 1 and 2 are from Brent at Brenspeed.
He's testing and tuning the same setup that's on my car.
He's the one that told me of the marginal gains with the throttle body and CAI combo.
hags1
He's testing and tuning the same setup that's on my car.
He's the one that told me of the marginal gains with the throttle body and CAI combo.
hags1
10/23/05, 06:40 PM
#93
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Originally posted by LordBritish@October 23, 2005, 2:01 PM
So basically if you already have a CAI (I have JLT) then this TB won't give you much more - is that right?
So basically if you already have a CAI (I have JLT) then this TB won't give you much more - is that right?
I guess the investment is looking more like ~$25/HP increase, ~$100 for throttle response and ~$200+ for looks
for us using a CAI, unless a dyno proves otherwise...
10/24/05, 05:44 AM
#94
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Originally posted by LordBritish@October 23, 2005, 4:01 PM
So basically if you already havea CAI (I have JLT) then this TB won't give you much more - is that right?
So basically if you already havea CAI (I have JLT) then this TB won't give you much more - is that right?
-Bryan
10/24/05, 06:15 AM
#95
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Originally posted by stonecoldtx@October 23, 2005, 8:47 AM
I got my TB installed yesterday, and I would like to add to a couple of points as well:
The CORRECT direction of rotation for engaging the spring (as you are looking at the Throttle Body Motor) is counterclockwise.
Why do I know that? Simple!
First off, after I installed the TB (and subsequently removing and installing the original one), I spent several hours with issues where the PCM was throwing 2104's and 2111's (2111's indicate that the throttle is "stuck open", and 2104's are "Fail Safe Engine Mode-FMEM, and indicate that the strategy employed is a "Forced Idle", meaning it won't operate EXCEPT at idle); I found out that I had been turning the spring clockwise instead of counter clockwise. Once I turned the spring the right way, everything was golden!
Secondly, the instructions say that (which I found out AFTER I figured out I had been turning the spring the wrong way!!
Man, I'm sure glad that there are FAILSAFES for dummies like me!
I got my TB installed yesterday, and I would like to add to a couple of points as well:
The CORRECT direction of rotation for engaging the spring (as you are looking at the Throttle Body Motor) is counterclockwise.
Why do I know that? Simple!
First off, after I installed the TB (and subsequently removing and installing the original one), I spent several hours with issues where the PCM was throwing 2104's and 2111's (2111's indicate that the throttle is "stuck open", and 2104's are "Fail Safe Engine Mode-FMEM, and indicate that the strategy employed is a "Forced Idle", meaning it won't operate EXCEPT at idle); I found out that I had been turning the spring clockwise instead of counter clockwise. Once I turned the spring the right way, everything was golden!
Secondly, the instructions say that (which I found out AFTER I figured out I had been turning the spring the wrong way!!
Man, I'm sure glad that there are FAILSAFES for dummies like me!
(are we supposed to read those?). Anyway, working great now.
11/15/05, 02:22 PM
#96
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Could somone forward the instuctions to me?
I've email'd LFP twice and just get automatic replies and I tried calling...no answer and their voicemail boxes are full!
Thanks...
I've email'd LFP twice and just get automatic replies and I tried calling...no answer and their voicemail boxes are full!
Thanks...
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