Drag Racing Basics
6/23/05, 03:06 PM
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I have been in and read some of the discussions about drag racing our stangs. I was just reading the Xtreme Mustangs Milestones magazine on lunch break today and there was a very good article on what to expect and do on your first trip to the strip. I had some time this afternoon so I type it in. I have left full credits in the article for the original writer and magazine. Hope this answers some question for those of you who have never been but want to race your stang.
jeff
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Drag Racing Basics
By Bruce Caldwell, Xtreme Mustang Milestones
Being the new kid on the block isn’t fun. It’s always a little awkward when you’re placed into a new work or social setting. Even recreational activities can produce some anxiety when you’re not very familiar with the rules.
Taking your mustang to the dragstrip for the first time can be intimidating. There is so much going on at such a fast pace. With all those fast cars roaring around, a dragstrip isn’t a good place to be indecisive. You need to be in the right place at the right time, highly focused, and ready to move when it’s your turn. The following bits of information should explain the basic steps of taking your Mustang to the track for the first time.
It would be a good idea to attend as a spectator a couple of times. Watch the whole staging process. It also helps if you know someone who is an experienced drag racer. Pick a low-key day for your first race such as a tune and test day, a mid-week bracket race, or when a car club is holding a show and race event. These are times when lots of regular street cars will be at the track.
Before You Leave Home
Time spent preparing yourself and your car is time well spent. Do some online research to find the dragstrip nearest you. Most tracks have web sites that give details about their programs such as dates, times, costs, and vehicle requirements.
Prepare your car by checking basic things such as tire pressures, fluid levels, and fastener security. You don’t want to haul a bunch of junk in your trunk. Unnecessary weight will slow you down.
Many tracks suggest having a half full gas tank. That’s plenty for racing and getting home. A full tank is unnecessary weight. If you plan to try bracket racing as opposed to making timed runs, you should bring some white shoe polish, paper towels, and glass cleaner. This is for writing your “dial-in” on the window and changing the dial-in when necessary. You should also have a pen for filling out the tech card and liability waiver.
A helmet is always a good idea although most tracks don’t require them unless your car runs 13.99 or quicker. That’s a distinct possibility with a hot Mustang.
At The Track
Most tracks have a single entrance, but at some point you will be asked if you’re there to watch or race. Entry fees are more when you race. Prices at test and tune nights are usually very modest.
You will be given a “tech card” to fill out some basic information and directed to the technical inspection lanes. Track officials will inspect your car for basic street legal equipment and any obvious safty infractions. Items like tread depth, seat belts, and steering components will be checked.
Once you pass tech, you will be directed to racer registration. This is where you must show a valid drivers license and sign a liability release. You will get a wristband and a “run card” that shows the track personnel that you’ve completed all the preliminary requirements. A number will be applied to your window with white shoe polish. This number is for the timing tower to keep track of you and to place your car in a category. Cars are generally called to the lanes by categories.
In The Pits
After the check-in process, you may have some time before racing. You may want to find a parking spot in the pits or if it’s one of those make as many runs as possible events, you may just want to get in the staging lanes. The track personnel will let you know the situation.
You must obey posted speed limits in the pits. There is a great deal of activity and foot traffic, so pay attention. If you have time to wait before being called to the staging lanes, open your hood and let the engine cool.
Staging Lanes
The staging lanes are the long waiting lines behind the starting line. Staging lanes usually make a big arc back to the pits. Usually there are overhead signs or banners to designate the different lanes. Cars tend to be grouped by performance levels. Stay in your assigned lane.
Listen to the public address system for the call to the lanes. The track may also make announcements at a specified FM bandwidth. This is easier than trying to hear announcements over the roar of engines.
Typically, track officials will be directing traffic at the end of the staging lanes. The official ask to see your run card before directing you to the proper lane. If you have any questions, now is the tome to ask.
Stay with your car in the staging lane. Depending on how quickly the lines are moving, you may or may not want to keep the engine running. Before you get to the front of the lane, be buckled in and ready to go. Once you’re directed to the starting line things happen very quickly and you need to be focused on driving.
At the front of the staging lane an official will ask again for your run card. He will punch a hole in the card to show that you have made a run.
Burn Out Area or Water Box
The area right before the starting line is the burn out area or water box so called because there is a shallow dip that is periodically hosed down with water. This is where the fast cars with racing slicks get their tire spinning and do a burn out as they leave the water.
If you drove your car to the track YOU DO NOT WANT TO USE THE WATER BOX. Getting street tires wet will adversely affect performance. Some water will remain in the tread or drip down onto the tires from the wheel wells. The water can also drip onto the track and be hazardous to other racers. Speaking of water, turn off you’re A/C. The condensation can drip onto the track.
Drive around the water box. You may want to do a short dry burn out. Don’t attempt any kind of burn out until directed to by the starting line officials. If you do a small burn out, power-brake and get the tires spinning. After generating a little smoke, move forward, but don’t cross the starting line. For your first time at the track you’re probably better off skipping any kind of burn out.
Staging
Staging or positioning your car on the starting line is probably the most intimidating aspect for a first time racer. You want to be right on the starting line without crossing it. When your front tires first break the staging light beam, the top light on the Christmas tree will come on. This is the “pre-stage” light. Then carefully inch forward until the second “staged” light comes on. Don’t go any further.
There are advanced techniques for “deep” or “shallow” staging, which can affect your elapsed time. Save these finer points until you’re more experienced.
When both cars are staged, the starter will activate the Christmas tree. The “tree” has three large amber lights followed by a green light and a red one. Once the sequence starts the lights will illuminate in half-second intervals.
The goal is to leave just as the green light comes on, but not an instant before. If you’re early, the red “foul” light comes on. This doesn’t matter during time trials, but during an actual race a red light means an automatic loss.
When you’re first racing, don’t worry about red lighting. If you never red light you’re not pushing hard enough. Depending on how quick your car is, you can probably leave when the last amber light comes on and not red light. That cushion is due to the time it takes to transfer power to the tires.
Your reaction time will be noted on your time slip. A perfect reaction time is .500 seconds. Less than that is a foul. A reaction time over .600 seconds is marginal and more than .700 seconds is just short of being asleep.
The Race
Once you’re under way stay focused on running straight. Any car that touches the centerline is automatically eliminated. Don’t worry about the car in the other lane. As you leave the starting line try to avoid spinning the tires. Smoking and spinning the tires may look impressive, but it means that your are going slower than necessary.
If you ever feel uncomfortable or that you might be loosing control, get off the gas and on the brakes. You can always make another run. Safety should be your number one priority.
Manual transmission cars will take some experimentation to determine the ideal shift points. If you have an automatic transmission, let the transmission do the shifting.
Don’t let off the gas until you cross the finish line. The end of the track can be a little confusing due to the mile per hour timing lights. Study the situation before racing and ask an official or experienced racer if you’re not sure.
After you cross the finish line let off the accelerator and slowly apply the brakes. You have lots of room to stop a street car. You don’t want to make any sudden moves or skids. Turn off at the exit. If the return road is on the right side of the track, the car in the right lane goes first followed by the car in the left lane.
At some point on the return road you’ll encounter the timing station where you’ll receive your time slip. Keep your time slips so you can compare runs. Most time slips include elapsed times at 60 feet, 330 feet, and 660 feet plus your reaction time, elapsed time and top speed. You might want to keep a notebook to record any car or driving changes you made relative to the results.
Now that you have made your firs run, get back in line and do it again. A sanctioned dragstrip is the only place to safely find out how well your mustang will perform. XM
jeff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Drag Racing Basics
By Bruce Caldwell, Xtreme Mustang Milestones
Being the new kid on the block isn’t fun. It’s always a little awkward when you’re placed into a new work or social setting. Even recreational activities can produce some anxiety when you’re not very familiar with the rules.
Taking your mustang to the dragstrip for the first time can be intimidating. There is so much going on at such a fast pace. With all those fast cars roaring around, a dragstrip isn’t a good place to be indecisive. You need to be in the right place at the right time, highly focused, and ready to move when it’s your turn. The following bits of information should explain the basic steps of taking your Mustang to the track for the first time.
It would be a good idea to attend as a spectator a couple of times. Watch the whole staging process. It also helps if you know someone who is an experienced drag racer. Pick a low-key day for your first race such as a tune and test day, a mid-week bracket race, or when a car club is holding a show and race event. These are times when lots of regular street cars will be at the track.
Before You Leave Home
Time spent preparing yourself and your car is time well spent. Do some online research to find the dragstrip nearest you. Most tracks have web sites that give details about their programs such as dates, times, costs, and vehicle requirements.
Prepare your car by checking basic things such as tire pressures, fluid levels, and fastener security. You don’t want to haul a bunch of junk in your trunk. Unnecessary weight will slow you down.
Many tracks suggest having a half full gas tank. That’s plenty for racing and getting home. A full tank is unnecessary weight. If you plan to try bracket racing as opposed to making timed runs, you should bring some white shoe polish, paper towels, and glass cleaner. This is for writing your “dial-in” on the window and changing the dial-in when necessary. You should also have a pen for filling out the tech card and liability waiver.
A helmet is always a good idea although most tracks don’t require them unless your car runs 13.99 or quicker. That’s a distinct possibility with a hot Mustang.
At The Track
Most tracks have a single entrance, but at some point you will be asked if you’re there to watch or race. Entry fees are more when you race. Prices at test and tune nights are usually very modest.
You will be given a “tech card” to fill out some basic information and directed to the technical inspection lanes. Track officials will inspect your car for basic street legal equipment and any obvious safty infractions. Items like tread depth, seat belts, and steering components will be checked.
Once you pass tech, you will be directed to racer registration. This is where you must show a valid drivers license and sign a liability release. You will get a wristband and a “run card” that shows the track personnel that you’ve completed all the preliminary requirements. A number will be applied to your window with white shoe polish. This number is for the timing tower to keep track of you and to place your car in a category. Cars are generally called to the lanes by categories.
In The Pits
After the check-in process, you may have some time before racing. You may want to find a parking spot in the pits or if it’s one of those make as many runs as possible events, you may just want to get in the staging lanes. The track personnel will let you know the situation.
You must obey posted speed limits in the pits. There is a great deal of activity and foot traffic, so pay attention. If you have time to wait before being called to the staging lanes, open your hood and let the engine cool.
Staging Lanes
The staging lanes are the long waiting lines behind the starting line. Staging lanes usually make a big arc back to the pits. Usually there are overhead signs or banners to designate the different lanes. Cars tend to be grouped by performance levels. Stay in your assigned lane.
Listen to the public address system for the call to the lanes. The track may also make announcements at a specified FM bandwidth. This is easier than trying to hear announcements over the roar of engines.
Typically, track officials will be directing traffic at the end of the staging lanes. The official ask to see your run card before directing you to the proper lane. If you have any questions, now is the tome to ask.
Stay with your car in the staging lane. Depending on how quickly the lines are moving, you may or may not want to keep the engine running. Before you get to the front of the lane, be buckled in and ready to go. Once you’re directed to the starting line things happen very quickly and you need to be focused on driving.
At the front of the staging lane an official will ask again for your run card. He will punch a hole in the card to show that you have made a run.
Burn Out Area or Water Box
The area right before the starting line is the burn out area or water box so called because there is a shallow dip that is periodically hosed down with water. This is where the fast cars with racing slicks get their tire spinning and do a burn out as they leave the water.
If you drove your car to the track YOU DO NOT WANT TO USE THE WATER BOX. Getting street tires wet will adversely affect performance. Some water will remain in the tread or drip down onto the tires from the wheel wells. The water can also drip onto the track and be hazardous to other racers. Speaking of water, turn off you’re A/C. The condensation can drip onto the track.
Drive around the water box. You may want to do a short dry burn out. Don’t attempt any kind of burn out until directed to by the starting line officials. If you do a small burn out, power-brake and get the tires spinning. After generating a little smoke, move forward, but don’t cross the starting line. For your first time at the track you’re probably better off skipping any kind of burn out.
Staging
Staging or positioning your car on the starting line is probably the most intimidating aspect for a first time racer. You want to be right on the starting line without crossing it. When your front tires first break the staging light beam, the top light on the Christmas tree will come on. This is the “pre-stage” light. Then carefully inch forward until the second “staged” light comes on. Don’t go any further.
There are advanced techniques for “deep” or “shallow” staging, which can affect your elapsed time. Save these finer points until you’re more experienced.
When both cars are staged, the starter will activate the Christmas tree. The “tree” has three large amber lights followed by a green light and a red one. Once the sequence starts the lights will illuminate in half-second intervals.
The goal is to leave just as the green light comes on, but not an instant before. If you’re early, the red “foul” light comes on. This doesn’t matter during time trials, but during an actual race a red light means an automatic loss.
When you’re first racing, don’t worry about red lighting. If you never red light you’re not pushing hard enough. Depending on how quick your car is, you can probably leave when the last amber light comes on and not red light. That cushion is due to the time it takes to transfer power to the tires.
Your reaction time will be noted on your time slip. A perfect reaction time is .500 seconds. Less than that is a foul. A reaction time over .600 seconds is marginal and more than .700 seconds is just short of being asleep.
The Race
Once you’re under way stay focused on running straight. Any car that touches the centerline is automatically eliminated. Don’t worry about the car in the other lane. As you leave the starting line try to avoid spinning the tires. Smoking and spinning the tires may look impressive, but it means that your are going slower than necessary.
If you ever feel uncomfortable or that you might be loosing control, get off the gas and on the brakes. You can always make another run. Safety should be your number one priority.
Manual transmission cars will take some experimentation to determine the ideal shift points. If you have an automatic transmission, let the transmission do the shifting.
Don’t let off the gas until you cross the finish line. The end of the track can be a little confusing due to the mile per hour timing lights. Study the situation before racing and ask an official or experienced racer if you’re not sure.
After you cross the finish line let off the accelerator and slowly apply the brakes. You have lots of room to stop a street car. You don’t want to make any sudden moves or skids. Turn off at the exit. If the return road is on the right side of the track, the car in the right lane goes first followed by the car in the left lane.
At some point on the return road you’ll encounter the timing station where you’ll receive your time slip. Keep your time slips so you can compare runs. Most time slips include elapsed times at 60 feet, 330 feet, and 660 feet plus your reaction time, elapsed time and top speed. You might want to keep a notebook to record any car or driving changes you made relative to the results.
Now that you have made your firs run, get back in line and do it again. A sanctioned dragstrip is the only place to safely find out how well your mustang will perform. XM
6/23/05, 04:48 PM
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Nice writeup.
Quick question, are all tracks perfectly flat to the point where you wont inch forward or back during staging. Or would you use the handbrake to hold you still so you can be pre revved, rather than holding yourself with the brake.
Quick question, are all tracks perfectly flat to the point where you wont inch forward or back during staging. Or would you use the handbrake to hold you still so you can be pre revved, rather than holding yourself with the brake.
6/23/05, 10:37 PM
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Originally posted by ManEHawke@June 23, 2005, 4:51 PM
Nice writeup.
Quick question, are all tracks perfectly flat to the point where you wont inch forward or back during staging. Or would you use the handbrake to hold you still so you can be pre revved, rather than holding yourself with the brake.
Nice writeup.
Quick question, are all tracks perfectly flat to the point where you wont inch forward or back during staging. Or would you use the handbrake to hold you still so you can be pre revved, rather than holding yourself with the brake.
As far as all tracks being flat & level, I would think if they are an NHRA or IHRA sanctioned, there must be some standard for starting lines, but I'm not sure.
I wouldn't try to hold the hand brake, you need one hand on the wheel and the other on the shifter! It would make for too many movements to be efficient. With a manual car, or an auto with a high stall converter, you would use a line-lock. This is a button on the shifter connected to the brake system that when held down locks the front brakes. That way when the light truns green you just let off the button, hit the gas, and let out the clutch and off you go.
With a stock auto car, one foot will already be on the brake and the other on the gas. Before launcing you have to come up on the rpm's almost to the point of the rear tires breaking loose with out sliding the fronts. So either way, line-lock or foot, you are basically using the brakes to keep it in one spot.
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