GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Controlling Rear Wheel Hop

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Old 10/4/06, 03:03 PM
  #21  
 
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What causes the wheelhop is the hydra bushing in the UCA.

Therefore replacing the UCA is the proper way to eliminate the wheelhop.

I completely eliminated the wheelhop and ran 1.68 60' times on the stock LCA's

Most people recommend replacing the LCA's because that's what they did first.
Old 10/4/06, 05:07 PM
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That makes sense to me. I replaced both at the same time so you have better info than I do. What would the result be if you just replaced the bellhousing bushing on the stock upper control arm with the urethane one? This could be done cheap if you were willing to make the effort.
Old 10/4/06, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Cali HP addict
That makes sense to me. I replaced both at the same time so you have better info than I do. What would the result be if you just replaced the bellhousing bushing on the stock upper control arm with the urethane one? This could be done cheap if you were willing to make the effort.
Do you mean in conjunction with replacing the uca or just the bushing alone?

All alone it wouldn't do much since the hydra bushing would still be in place. If I were to go to that extreme I think it would be after going to a UCA with solid ends.
Old 10/5/06, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by thump_rrr
What causes the wheelhop is the hydra bushing in the UCA.

Therefore replacing the UCA is the proper way to eliminate the wheelhop.

I completely eliminated the wheelhop and ran 1.68 60' times on the stock LCA's

Most people recommend replacing the LCA's because that's what they did first.
thump_rrr,
Your sig shows that you use a full Steeda suspension. Hence, I'm assuming that you use a Steeda UCA. Correct or no?
Old 10/5/06, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ski
thump_rrr,
Your sig shows that you use a full Steeda suspension. Hence, I'm assuming that you use a Steeda UCA. Correct or no?
Yes I have the Street UCA. They have since released a race version.
Old 10/6/06, 11:58 AM
  #26  
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Adding BMR lower control arm relocating brackets to an otherwise stock suspension (stock height, all stock upper and lower control arms) also eliminates the dreaded wheel hop.

I can not say this is the best method or the correct order to do stuff but I'm just passing on my experience.

Plans are eventually add upper and lower control arms and lower the rear of the car an inch or so with lowering springs to "level out" the stance. Still debating also lowering the front.
Old 10/6/06, 05:21 PM
  #27  
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thump_rrr & mot250,
Thank you both for your valuable input. There's nothing that compares to the voices of experience when one is trying to make a vehicle mod decision.

mot250,
I saw in your sig that you also have a STEEDA G-track bar, and a BMR Panhard Bar support brace installed.
Was the wheel hop eliminated in your car by installing just the BMR LCA relocation brackets by themselves w/o the above 2 components, or were all 3 components installed at the same time?
Thanks.
Old 10/6/06, 05:31 PM
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If you use the BMR LCA Relocation Brackets you MUST use an adjustable UCA otherwise your pinion angle will be way out of wack. Others have found theirs to be way off also.
Old 10/6/06, 05:52 PM
  #29  
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thump_rrr,
Thanks again for your input.
One last question(famous last words LOL). Is your Street UCA the adjustable or the tubular unit?




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