theedge67

What is the best/easiest/cheapest way to control this nasty little habit of these cars? Everytime it is wet outside I invariably start at a stop sign and get that nasty wheel hop, dash rattles...car shakes...teeth rattle...can't be good on the drivetrain/rear end/axles.

neil07gt

a stock suspension or are you lowered? I would think a larger wheel size or lca relocation brackets would help the most.

theedge67

Bone stock everything, and no plans in the near term of going lowered.

MaverickMLFD371

a set of BMR Lower Control arms $125

Hatchman

I had a set of the BMR non adjustable LCA's. They did reduce the wheel hop some, but they did have some noticable knocking sounds, especially over rough payment.

I switched over to the Steeda non adjustable LCA's, and it reduced the wheel hop just a little more, and they are much quiter than the BMR's, the rear end suspension over bumps sounds like stock again.

The Steeda's are more, but if you want the ride to stay quiet, I'd buy them over the BMR's. (yes, I made sure they were torqued correctly and the bushings were in great shape).

Reminisce

This is good info, was wondering about this myself.

MaverickMLFD371

I have both the BMR NON Adjustable Lower Control Arms and the BMR NON Adjustable Upper Control Arm and it cured my wheel hop. No need to change different co. lower control arms or uppers.

emperorjordan

BMR LCAs, and relo brackets cured it 80% for me.... and then when I lowered the car with BMR springs, that took care of anything that was left.

mach1fever

keep your foot out of it. I have never had that problem in the rain. That should only be happening at the track.

theedge67

You are very lucky then, I know many other mustang owners are very annoyed by this wheel hop in wet conditions.

Al Blue4.6l

I'd wait for Maximum Motorsports to release more stuff (so far they just have a PHB out). they said they'd be releasing more parts (or at least more info) this month.

06GTwJUICE

wonder what the difference is?

They both appear to be the same size and use pretty close to the same bushings (different color ??) ?

wonder what makes one better or quieter than the other?

emperorjordan

+1. they are close to my house!

max2000jp

Stop by and see what they are working on!

RadBOSS

If you are sticking with stock ride height, spending big bucks on UCA's and LCA's will likely not make the wheel hop go away, at least not completely ... though one of the readers indicates his did. This problem is a combination of suspension linkage geometry, linkage rigidity and shock damping factors. Lowered Mustang needs LCA and UCA repositioned to get the instant center back up where its supposed to be. A low instant center of the rear axle linkage promotes a lot of rear end squat under acceleration. The linkage rigidity is affected more by the bushing at each end 9some are harder than others), but the more rigidity you get the harsher and noisier the ride (because of less body isolation from the suspension). Better shock damping might do more to dampen the problem.

Mine is not noticably wheel hop happy, but I don't keep my foot in it when the road is wet either. I have some Spec-D's, but have not installed them yet, and hopeing I will get better suspension control over sharp short bumps. With the response I have right now, the car really twitches and hops when hitting such bumps in a slight turn. Even at low speed, video capture shows rear axle grabbing air, suggesting bounce damping is too light, rebound too heavy.

Any way, my 2 cents.

Hatchman

I agree, installing the uppers with the lowers should just about cure it, I just wasn't happy with the knocking sounds I was hearing with the BMRs. I plan on installing the Steeda uppers soon.

Hatchman

The bushings are different. You can't see it from the pics, but they are. The Steeda bushings have some sort of Patent pending design to reduce NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness). I thought "Yeah right" when I read that the first time too, but they definitely have a quiter ride than the BMR's.

It's hard to explain, but the BMR's have a steel rod collar that goes around the bolt, the ends of this bolt collar/sleeve actually touch the brackets of the car, so you can get metal on metal contact on bumps, hince the banging sound.

The Steeda bushings flange out around the ends of the arm, and there is a metal washer that is touching the brackets of the car, so you have a cushion of bushing in between the washer and the control arm, so the control arm doesn not directly bang up agains the metal bracket on the car.

In other words, the Steeda has some more cushion than the BMRs, so less noisey.



But, BMR has since then changed there design, the ones I owned had the red bushings and the arms where round, the new ones have black bushings and are square, so I'm sure the newer BMR LCAs are an improvement.

06GTwJUICE

thanks for the info... i was looking into getting a set of lca's and the BMR ones are priced right... so i'll try a set of those soon.


jake

mach1fever

thats interesting. Only had it when I had a bad set of tires. Otherwise no problems.

Cali HP addict

Start with a good set of lower control arms. This should all but eliminate your problem. If you feel you need to take it a step further, get an upper control arm.
BMR has come out with a sweet new billet aluminum set of lower control arms you should check out.