Controlling Rear Wheel Hop
What causes the wheelhop is the hydra bushing in the UCA.
Therefore replacing the UCA is the proper way to eliminate the wheelhop.
I completely eliminated the wheelhop and ran 1.68 60' times on the stock LCA's
Most people recommend replacing the LCA's because that's what they did first.
Therefore replacing the UCA is the proper way to eliminate the wheelhop.
I completely eliminated the wheelhop and ran 1.68 60' times on the stock LCA's
Most people recommend replacing the LCA's because that's what they did first.
Bullitt Member
Joined: October 3, 2006
Posts: 257
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That makes sense to me. I replaced both at the same time so you have better info than I do. What would the result be if you just replaced the bellhousing bushing on the stock upper control arm with the urethane one? This could be done cheap if you were willing to make the effort.
That makes sense to me. I replaced both at the same time so you have better info than I do. What would the result be if you just replaced the bellhousing bushing on the stock upper control arm with the urethane one? This could be done cheap if you were willing to make the effort.
All alone it wouldn't do much since the hydra bushing would still be in place. If I were to go to that extreme I think it would be after going to a UCA with solid ends.
Bullitt Member
Joined: June 24, 2005
Posts: 311
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What causes the wheelhop is the hydra bushing in the UCA.
Therefore replacing the UCA is the proper way to eliminate the wheelhop.
I completely eliminated the wheelhop and ran 1.68 60' times on the stock LCA's
Most people recommend replacing the LCA's because that's what they did first.
Therefore replacing the UCA is the proper way to eliminate the wheelhop.
I completely eliminated the wheelhop and ran 1.68 60' times on the stock LCA's
Most people recommend replacing the LCA's because that's what they did first.
Your sig shows that you use a full Steeda suspension. Hence, I'm assuming that you use a Steeda UCA. Correct or no?
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 16, 2006
Posts: 476
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Adding BMR lower control arm relocating brackets to an otherwise stock suspension (stock height, all stock upper and lower control arms) also eliminates the dreaded wheel hop.
I can not say this is the best method or the correct order to do stuff but I'm just passing on my experience.
Plans are eventually add upper and lower control arms and lower the rear of the car an inch or so with lowering springs to "level out" the stance. Still debating also lowering the front.
I can not say this is the best method or the correct order to do stuff but I'm just passing on my experience.
Plans are eventually add upper and lower control arms and lower the rear of the car an inch or so with lowering springs to "level out" the stance. Still debating also lowering the front.
Bullitt Member
Joined: June 24, 2005
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
thump_rrr & mot250,
Thank you both for your valuable input. There's nothing that compares to the voices of experience when one is trying to make a vehicle mod decision.
mot250,
I saw in your sig that you also have a STEEDA G-track bar, and a BMR Panhard Bar support brace installed.
Was the wheel hop eliminated in your car by installing just the BMR LCA relocation brackets by themselves w/o the above 2 components, or were all 3 components installed at the same time?
Thanks.
Thank you both for your valuable input. There's nothing that compares to the voices of experience when one is trying to make a vehicle mod decision.
mot250,
I saw in your sig that you also have a STEEDA G-track bar, and a BMR Panhard Bar support brace installed.
Was the wheel hop eliminated in your car by installing just the BMR LCA relocation brackets by themselves w/o the above 2 components, or were all 3 components installed at the same time?
Thanks.
If you use the BMR LCA Relocation Brackets you MUST use an adjustable UCA otherwise your pinion angle will be way out of wack. Others have found theirs to be way off also.