Very interested in hearing the final word on them after driving with them awhile...These are something I'd been considering but haven't pulled the trigger yet.... :-)

John

 

Mike I too will be following this thread closely to see your results. Your mods are very similar to mine with the exception mine has 4.10 gears. I am trying to reach the 300 RWHP mark with an automatic. I am almost there and I believe the 5 RWHP gained from Steeda Charge Motion Plates just might do it. Just installed the Steeda underdrive pulleys today.

Could someone be kind enough to post the installation instructions for the charge motion plates? Would like to read them.

I really don't want to install shorty headers unless 300 RWHP doesn't happen with other bolt on mods.

 

Todd, there are atleast 2 versions within this thread. It is very easy.

 

Yes I have read the entire thread. I was hoping to read Steeda's installation instructions.

 

Honestly, I didn't even pull the instructions out.

 

I know I am overly cautious but I don't open my tool box unless I have read and understand all installation instructions.

 

Todd, mine were shipped today so if you can hold out til next weekend, I'll post what it takes. If they come with instructions, I'll post them.

Paul

 

Yes you would trip a CEL, or at least thats what I have been told. You leave the motor hooked up so it must be able to sense the added airflow?? The stock system looks like it creates tumble in the airstream. You'll see what I mean when you take them out. Both valves still get air. After seeing it physically in my hand I would say it's more for emmissions (better burning mixture), although it could affect low speed response. The way it works you really never know how much air you are getting at any time. I know after 3000 rpm's they are open(I assume WOT). I'll be able to give a better review by the end of the week on the torque issue. Oh and by the way emmissions was a topic in Fords booklet on the Mustang so....

Thanks Mike

 

Ford's R&I instructions for the intake manifold specify 89 lb-in. torque for the intake manifold mounting bolts.

One additional question since my plates haven't arrived yet and I don't have Steeda's installation instructions: What do you do with the charge motion control valve mounted on the rear of the intake manifold? Disconnect mechanical linkages to existing charge motion plates and leave the charge motion control valve in place? Please enlighten me.

 

It comes off with the plates. I can take a pic of the old plates and all that came off if you want.

 

Yes - please do!! Any wiring connected to the charge motion control valve?

 

The plates are actually in the trunk of the car still and my wife is at work. When she gets home, I'll snap some pics and post them here. I don't believe there was any wiring at all.

 

Did you replace the injector seals? Are there any seals, gaskets, etc. not supplied by Steeda required?

Looks like the charge motion control valve (CMCV) does have an electrical connector.

 

There are 4 green 0-rings for each plate. You just re-use the original ones. There are no seals that come with the new ones. I'll look at the car later on when it's here. I don't recall a harness, but I could be mistaken.

 

Just came from Ford Parts Dept. Looks like there are 16 seals (8 upper & 8 lower) part number 4R3Z-9439-AA @ $1.35 each. I ordered. $21.60 - cheap insurance. Also, noticed there are no seals listed for the injectors.

 

O-rings, seals, whatever you want to call them. they are rectangular in shape and seal off each of the ports on the intake.

 

You will not need any injector o-rings or seals unless you are terrible with tools and such, if thats the case you don't need to be doing it

The control arms come of the control motor, but it is left hooked up UNLESS it has been accounted for in your tuning by turning it off,etc..


Now on to some more data for you guys. First off my mileage is could be a little misleading as I forgot and went ahead and installed my pulleys. I was going to wait and I just went out there and did it anyway . The positive thing is that it's getting better mileage It showed on my indicator the night that I installed the plates that it was looking better. Now that being said it could be in the tune also, but I don't think there's any negative affect to mileage with the plates. Thats how I will sum it up as all cars are different. I can notice a slight difference in the throttle response when you take off( 1000-1500 rpm's). So slight most will not notice it. I think the factory plates speed up the intake charge at low rpm's and I believe this is why I feel it. The perfromance is nice and I am completely satisfied with my purchase as I would do it again. The positives out weigh the negatives. I think any standard car with a gear swap will benefit. I can't give any info on a stock gear car with a standard. I feel the converter in the auto is loose enough on take off that it negates any low rpm problems. Personally if I had a standard I would do it and see how they worked out. They are easy to install and to take back off if you do not like them. I'm giving them a thumbs up on my car

I hope this helps some of you guys and if you have any more questions I'll try and help.
Thanks Mike

 

Mike, was that easy to install or what! It looks or may sound more difficult that it is. I agree with the seals/orings deal. They are very simple to remove. It's not like a crush seal/gasket on a manifold.

 

David & Mike

Thanks for all your input. My plates should arrive today. Will put them on this weekend.

David - where's the pictures you promised?

Mike - who's tune are you using?

 

[attachmentid=19897]Do you really want to know why I don't have them yet? I'll get them. Here's one that'll hold you over. That's my engine! The wiring harness on the left is still waiting to be closed up properly. I'm waiting on a buddy who has ordered the schematics manual so I can find out which wire is the tach wire (for shift light).