GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Budget SuperCharger - My 07 GT's Vortech V2

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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 07S197
How do you like the 4.10's? I currently have 3.31's in the car as delivered and was thinking of going with 3.73's. I was worried that the 4.10's with a S/C would be too much, when I do get one. As an advantage I am running 285's in the rear, so the traction is pretty good. But I can light them up quite easily with just the tune & CAI that I have.

I also have a 100 mile commute to work on the highway. It's not my daily driver, but still.
The 4.10's are great with the centrifugal supercharger, since centrifugals don't have a lot of low-end grunt. If I had a twin screw or roots blower, 4.10's might be too much. 3.73's are probably as much gear as anyone would want with a twin screw or roots blower because the massive amounts of low-end torque.

Centrifugal blowers (and turbos) don't make boost unless you stick your foot in the throttle and build revs, so a 100 mile commute on the highway should yield about the same fuel economy that you're currently seeing. My wife can drive my blown GT very easily as it feels like a stock GT until you bury the loud pedal.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cdynaco
Serious improvement!
Just think how your Bullitt would feel with 50% more power on tap. IIRC, you live in a very rural area, so you likely have some long stretches of empty highway that you could devour quickly with a supercharged Bullitt...
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #23  
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If I don't end up going into a '11 if they have 400HP etc I may just go this way, less than $4k is pretty attractive.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 02:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Cowtown
less than $4k is pretty attractive.
It was attractive enough to convince even my penny-pinching wife. She vetoed every other blower choice since they were all $6K and up.

Worth noting, Paxton and Vortech are the same company, and they both have a basic centrifugal blower like mine for $4K or less. Easy to install, too, so labor is cheap (or free if you do it yourself).
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Five Oh Brian
It was attractive enough to convince even my penny-pinching wife. She vetoed every other blower choice since they were all $6K and up.

Worth noting, Paxton and Vortech are the same company, and they both have a basic centrifugal blower like mine for $4K or less. Easy to install, too, so labor is cheap (or free if you do it yourself).
Did one buy the other? They had similar blowers in the past with slight variations.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 01:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cowtown
Did one buy the other? They had similar blowers in the past with slight variations.
One of them is now a subsidiary of the other, but I don't recall which is which. The basic Paxton 1200 is absolutely identical to my Vortech V2. The HO models are the same head unit, but use different aftercoolers (Paxton uses an air-to-air, while Vortech uses a water-to-air, IIRC).

They're still in seperate buildings, but both are headquartered in Oxnard, CA.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #27  
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Nice, simple... and it WORKS!

Great job... and with future options/directions galore...
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 03:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by chad05gt
Nice, simple... and it WORKS!

Great job... and with future options/directions galore...
thanks! and with a little more work I might be able to match your results. dang, you're car is N/A and faster than mine! way to go!
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Five Oh Brian
thanks! and with a little more work I might be able to match your results. dang, you're car is N/A and faster than mine! way to go!

60$ set of CJ springs and 15" jegs w/ 27x10.5x15 ET Streets like I use, and you will be much FASTER!!

Do you notice the power loss when heat soaked in traffic? (which, is no big deal, just asking..)

The important question: Do you ever overheat? What are oil and coolent temps in stop and go traffic?

Just concidering the kit you have for a winter project
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 11:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by chad05gt
60$ set of CJ springs and 15" jegs w/ 27x10.5x15 ET Streets like I use, and you will be much FASTER!!

Do you notice the power loss when heat soaked in traffic? (which, is no big deal, just asking..)

The important question: Do you ever overheat? What are oil and coolent temps in stop and go traffic?

Just concidering the kit you have for a winter project
I PM'd you before I realized you posted here in thread, as well. In summary for everyone else reading along....

In traffic, I have no overheating or heat soak. Temps never rise above normal per the factory gauges, but who knows how accurate they are? The car feels much stronger on really cold day (early mornings and late evenings when the are is cold and dense).

At the drag strip, I do experience heat soak if I hot lap (back to back runs). Heat soak costs me about 1-2 mph through the traps and about .25 second worse ET. We rarely get to hot lap, though, as our local track is very busy, so it's typically not a problem for me. An hour of cool down between runs (no ice needed and just the hood up) and the car runs super consistent. My last outing I ran a best ET of 12.338 and the worst was 12.345. That's about as consistent as I could hope for.
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 03:38 AM
  #31  
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Great informative thread Brian. Nice car and results as well . Nice write up as usual.

As for the automatic transmission, do you feel it can handle the power and what is the affect of the torque convertor? don't you think you need a transmission oil cooler to prolong it's life?

I'm just wondering as my friend (with auto transmission 2007 Mustang GT) is in the process of installing a Prochorger (centrifugal) supercharger and he asekd me what shall I upgrade in the transmission.

Last edited by Hani; Sep 29, 2009 at 08:14 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Hani
Great informative thread Brian. Nice car and results as well . Nice write up as usual.

As for the automatic transmission, do you feel it can handle the power and what is the affect of the torque convertor? don't you think you need a transmission oil cooler to prolong it's life?

I'm just wondering as my friend (with auto transmission 2007 Mustang GT) is in the process of installing a Prochorger (centrifugal) supercharger and he asekd me what shall I upgrade in the transmission.
Thanks, Hani. I am currently running just the factory trans cooler, but am changing the trans fluid frequently. Just had it changed last week and it was bright pink/red with absolutely no signs of overheating or foaming, so the factory cooler appears to be doing a great job.

Even though I am running a very big stall converter (flashes to 4800 rpm's!), it only runs loose like that in 1st and 2nd gear at WOT, and very minimally in 3rd, 4th, and 5th as the lock-up is programmed for a half second after each shift (into 3rd, 4th, and 5th). This helps keep heat generation down to a minimum. If didn't have 3rd gear programmed to lock-up (the factory doesn't lock 3rd), and if the lock-up times were longer with more slippage, then heat might become an issue.

Since I have a mildly tuned supercharger, and timing is only 14 degrees at WOT, I don't think the transmission is in danger of puking anytime soon. I'm only making about 450 "flywheel" hp, and the factory 5R55S automatic seems okay up to about 450 "rear wheel" hp from what I've heard, so I have a ways to go before I start worrying about killing the trans.
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 04:06 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Five Oh Brian
I had our local Ford dealership install the supercharger the "first" time. They did a great job and charged a reasonable price. A year after install, the supercharger's pulley bearing died, so I pulled the supercharger out myself and shipped it back to Vortech for warranty repair. I converted the car back to N/A so I could drive it while waiting for Vortech to rebuild the blower. I reinstalled it myself when it came back. I was a lot easier than I thought, so now I wonder why I paid someone else to install it in the first place.

I bought the blower from Stillen Motorsports. Great service, great pricing, and they really helped when there was a slight issue with Vortech initially (which was resolved to my satisfaction).

It looks like the upgrade for an intercooler would set me back about $1500-$2000. So instead, I've been looking into a Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection Kit (about $500) that will not only cool the intake charge like an intercooler, but also serves to increase the effective octane of the fuel mixture. And, the guy that does my dyno tuning swears by how well they work as he uses these kits on his own supercharged Mustangs. Supposedly worth about 100 rwhp as you can dial in a lot more timing.
Not that people do not have success with meth injection, but bare some things in mind about meth.

1). The intake manifold was designed to flow air. Not liquid or mist. This means some cylinders can and will run lean.

2). Pumps can fail, hoses can need replacing, and boost juice isn't free. Consider what the total system cost can be of meth and not just the initial cost.

3). When you factor the risks and costs to own a meth system and not just "buy it", an aftercooler starts to look more appealing.

You might want to save some money and buy an aftercooler. No worries about running out of meth, pumps failing (although rare it does happen), hoses leaking, cylinders running lean, etc.
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 07S197
How do you like the 4.10's? I currently have 3.31's in the car as delivered and was thinking of going with 3.73's. I was worried that the 4.10's with a S/C would be too much, when I do get one. As an advantage I am running 285's in the rear, so the traction is pretty good. But I can light them up quite easily with just the tune & CAI that I have.

I also have a 100 mile commute to work on the highway. It's not my daily driver, but still.
I swapped my 3.31's for 3.73's with 285's in the rear and commute 50 miles/day on freeways. I am happy with the performance and mileage (about 17mpg with a Bamachips 91 race tune).

Last edited by SoCalSam; Sep 29, 2009 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by exgto
Not that people do not have success with meth injection, but bare some things in mind about meth.

1). The intake manifold was designed to flow air. Not liquid or mist. This means some cylinders can and will run lean.

2). Pumps can fail, hoses can need replacing, and boost juice isn't free. Consider what the total system cost can be of meth and not just the initial cost.

3). When you factor the risks and costs to own a meth system and not just "buy it", an aftercooler starts to look more appealing.

You might want to save some money and buy an aftercooler. No worries about running out of meth, pumps failing (although rare it does happen), hoses leaking, cylinders running lean, etc.
Thank you for the insights. I'm still compiling a "pros" and "cons" list on water-methanol injection. I like the idea of methanol because it not only lower IAT's, but also increases the effective octane to near race fuel levels. Aftercooler only cools - no octane bump. And, aftercoolers add a lot more weight (in an already nose-heavy car). Again, I'm still weighing both options and appreciate your input.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #36  
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That's the exact reason I went with and air/air aftercooler... didn't want to worry about replenishing consumables. And even worse, forgetting.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bigray327
That's the exact reason I went with and air/air aftercooler... didn't want to worry about replenishing consumables. And even worse, forgetting.
I, too, was worried about running out w/o remembering, but they do sell a low-level indicator.

I curious about the air/air aftercooler (Paxton unit, IIRC?). At the drag strip, I would be in the staging lanes for a long time waiting for my next run. Would the air/air cool anything at all if the car is not moving? Would an air/water aftercooler work better in this situation? What are the benefits of the air/air aftercooler?
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 07:02 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Five Oh Brian
Just think how your Bullitt would feel with 50% more power on tap. IIRC, you live in a very rural area, so you likely have some long stretches of empty highway that you could devour quickly with a supercharged Bullitt...
Don't have 50% more power, but another 75 or so over stock, and I can tell you it feels great.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Five Oh Brian
I curious about the air/air aftercooler (Paxton unit, IIRC?). At the drag strip, I would be in the staging lanes for a long time waiting for my next run. Would the air/air cool anything at all if the car is not moving? Would an air/water aftercooler work better in this situation? What are the benefits of the air/air aftercooler?
It doesn't work by air passing over the aftercooler, it works by the vanes of the aftercooler being exposed to the air. Just like your car's coolant radiator. Moving or not moving, makes no difference.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by smitty
Don't have 50% more power, but another 75 or so over stock, and I can tell you it feels great.
75 more horsepower is a huge improvement. I'd really love to see #6333 run down the dragstrip. Even better, I'd like to personally drive #6333 down the dragstrip. There's gotta be some mid-12's to be had.
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