Best version of Watt's link?
I bought the fays2 for my car, it works extremely well even though I have stock shocks and springs. Although I agree with sam as far shocks being the main cause of a twitchy rear, they are not the only cause. My car stays well composed on bumpy highways and it does not wonder around corners anymore.
I took my car to a local auto-x event and I did well for being a complete novice. The car was very predictable around the bumpy sections of the track. Big thumbs up from me. Only down side is that I completely demolished my stock tires after 8laps, by demolished I mean the sidewall was melting.
I took my car to a local auto-x event and I did well for being a complete novice. The car was very predictable around the bumpy sections of the track. Big thumbs up from me. Only down side is that I completely demolished my stock tires after 8laps, by demolished I mean the sidewall was melting.
I bought the fays2 for my car, it works extremely well even though I have stock shocks and springs. Although I agree with sam as far shocks being the main cause of a twitchy rear, they are not the only cause. My car stays well composed on bumpy highways and it does not wonder around corners anymore.
FWIW, I'm doing free shipping this week on Fays2 links--ends next Friday September 25th.
I've been told by more than one performance tuner that our cars should have a Watts link as standard equipment. Reason: a live axle car needs one. a panhard bar just is not the answer. I'd like to gert a Fays 2 in the future, but I wonder how much they weigh? From what I've gathered, the way they install causes only half their weight to be unsprung weight. Maybe Sam can clarify all this.
I've been told by more than one performance tuner that our cars should have a Watts link as standard equipment. Reason: a live axle car needs one. a panhard bar just is not the answer. I'd like to gert a Fays 2 in the future, but I wonder how much they weigh? From what I've gathered, the way they install causes only half their weight to be unsprung weight. Maybe Sam can clarify all this.
A Watts link boxed up for shipping is just under 30 pounds. That's the box, the book, the nuts the bolts, everything. The entire frame, bell-crank is not unsprung weight... Only the axle clamps and half the arms are unsprung weight.
I can't recall the exact weight on a Mustang of the on vs. off total. I know on a Camaro (also a PHB/brace car) the total additional weight was 20 pounds about 12 of which was unsprung. That said, I just test fitted my new hollow/adjustable 22mm rear bar on my car tonight. It saves 5 pounds itself vs. the stock bar making back some of what you gain on the Watts.... and you gain the adjustment too. Now because the bar is mounted to the body it's not unsprung--but it is weight.
And fwiw, the idea is for my bar to clear a Watts. A Watts link is on the way for my car tomorrow (my Camaro has had one for quite a while).
I can't recall the exact weight on a Mustang of the on vs. off total. I know on a Camaro (also a PHB/brace car) the total additional weight was 20 pounds about 12 of which was unsprung. That said, I just test fitted my new hollow/adjustable 22mm rear bar on my car tonight. It saves 5 pounds itself vs. the stock bar making back some of what you gain on the Watts.... and you gain the adjustment too. Now because the bar is mounted to the body it's not unsprung--but it is weight.
And fwiw, the idea is for my bar to clear a Watts. A Watts link is on the way for my car tomorrow (my Camaro has had one for quite a while).
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!


Joined: September 23, 2008
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From: Memphis
A Watts link boxed up for shipping is just under 30 pounds. That's the box, the book, the nuts the bolts, everything. The entire frame, bell-crank is not unsprung weight... Only the axle clamps and half the arms are unsprung weight.
I can't recall the exact weight on a Mustang of the on vs. off total. I know on a Camaro (also a PHB/brace car) the total additional weight was 20 pounds about 12 of which was unsprung. That said, I just test fitted my new hollow/adjustable 22mm rear bar on my car tonight. It saves 5 pounds itself vs. the stock bar making back some of what you gain on the Watts.... and you gain the adjustment too. Now because the bar is mounted to the body it's not unsprung--but it is weight.
And fwiw, the idea is for my bar to clear a Watts. A Watts link is on the way for my car tomorrow (my Camaro has had one for quite a while).
I can't recall the exact weight on a Mustang of the on vs. off total. I know on a Camaro (also a PHB/brace car) the total additional weight was 20 pounds about 12 of which was unsprung. That said, I just test fitted my new hollow/adjustable 22mm rear bar on my car tonight. It saves 5 pounds itself vs. the stock bar making back some of what you gain on the Watts.... and you gain the adjustment too. Now because the bar is mounted to the body it's not unsprung--but it is weight.
And fwiw, the idea is for my bar to clear a Watts. A Watts link is on the way for my car tomorrow (my Camaro has had one for quite a while).
Little early to tell, but I do my best to charge a fair price... But my costs tend to be higher than most since I'm very small and can't do huge quantities. They won't be near Hotchkis priced, that much I can say--something less than that for sure.
The first thing you have to ask yourself is: why do I need that? Griggs provides the most amount of adjustment of any of the watts links available. Do you need it? If you are competitive, as in VERY, then yes, get it. If not, FAYS2's design is similar to Steeda, it's lighter, less expensive. It's definitely less expensive than TECHO/Saleen, and I haven't heard anyone having issues with this brand (I have seen the saleen ones brake)
Our system however is made of chrome moly alloy steel instead of mild steel which is a far stronger material.
Not only does the Griggs system require a proprietary rear end cover, but you can see in the pictures the links are fixed at the chassis ends and only adjustable on the center link. So you cannot make the links parallel at ride height which us important to avoid increasing scrub on one or both directions.
The first thing you have to ask yourself is: why do I need that? Griggs provides the most amount of adjustment of any of the watts links available. Do you need it? If you are competitive, as in VERY, then yes, get it. If not, FAYS2's design is similar to Steeda, it's lighter, less expensive. It's definitely less expensive than TECHO/Saleen, and I haven't heard anyone having issues with this brand (I have seen the saleen ones brake)
I sell both, they both work as advertised. The Steeda is a touch easier to setup and is a little lighther, the Fays2 certainly costs less, is a touch heavier and take a little more time to get setup.
Take your pick. But I think these two are the best units because of how they mount and that fact the roll center is able to be messed with. Also a minimum of unsprung weight is added.
Take your pick. But I think these two are the best units because of how they mount and that fact the roll center is able to be messed with. Also a minimum of unsprung weight is added.
I have the Techco on my GT500. I sold my Mustang GT a year ago and had the Saleen kit on that car. My observations:
-- Both kits are relatively easy to install, even for those without a lot of wrenching experience.
-- The watts link makes a dramatic difference in the handling of your car, even on the street. More so with the GT500, which has the extra power that makes your rear end extra unstable. The watts link makes the car feel pretty close to independent rear suspension.
-- The conventional wisdom, especially among GT500 owners, is that you need new upper and lower control arms to deal with wheel hop, unstable rear end, etc. In fact, the watts link alone deals with the problem.
-- I have not driven a car with the Fays/Steeda type unit so don't know how those work with respect to handling.
-- For those worried about the differential cover, I don't think that is an issue. The Saleen units have had some breakages involving control arms and attachment points to the diff covers, but I am not aware of any problems with the diff covers themselves. The Techo unit obviously was an effort to remove all the potential problems in the Saleen unit (reportedly the same people designed both units) by providing better attachment to the diff cover and allowing more flex and movement in the control arms without stress on the parts.
-- I thought about the Griggs unit but read about some NVH with that one. There is zero NVH with the Saleen and Techco units. If I was racing all the time, I probably would have gone with the Griggs.
-- I got the Techco unit for $900 shipped from Stage 3. You don't need the sway bar if you already have a beefed up one. I kept my stock GT500 sway bar because it is identical to the one normally included in the Techco kit. When I had my Mustang GT, I did not need the sway bar because I already had a Roush suspension kit with a beefed up sway bar.
-- Both kits are relatively easy to install, even for those without a lot of wrenching experience.
-- The watts link makes a dramatic difference in the handling of your car, even on the street. More so with the GT500, which has the extra power that makes your rear end extra unstable. The watts link makes the car feel pretty close to independent rear suspension.
-- The conventional wisdom, especially among GT500 owners, is that you need new upper and lower control arms to deal with wheel hop, unstable rear end, etc. In fact, the watts link alone deals with the problem.
-- I have not driven a car with the Fays/Steeda type unit so don't know how those work with respect to handling.
-- For those worried about the differential cover, I don't think that is an issue. The Saleen units have had some breakages involving control arms and attachment points to the diff covers, but I am not aware of any problems with the diff covers themselves. The Techo unit obviously was an effort to remove all the potential problems in the Saleen unit (reportedly the same people designed both units) by providing better attachment to the diff cover and allowing more flex and movement in the control arms without stress on the parts.
-- I thought about the Griggs unit but read about some NVH with that one. There is zero NVH with the Saleen and Techco units. If I was racing all the time, I probably would have gone with the Griggs.
-- I got the Techco unit for $900 shipped from Stage 3. You don't need the sway bar if you already have a beefed up one. I kept my stock GT500 sway bar because it is identical to the one normally included in the Techco kit. When I had my Mustang GT, I did not need the sway bar because I already had a Roush suspension kit with a beefed up sway bar.
Fays2. You don't have to worry about any diff-cover bolt shearing in half like on the Saleen type one. Racer friend sheared TWO of the Saleen bolts while on-track. Fays2 on another Mustang racer has had no issues.
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