Another Hurst Shifter install question.....
8/28/05, 07:38 AM
#41
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My car was built July 27, just a week or two before the end of '05 production, and has the two "half" metal bushings that go in from each side to make one bushing with shoulders on each side, like Vegasjay.
8/28/05, 10:42 AM
#42
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Thanks for all of these updates on the shifter. I felt one at the Good Guys car show yesterday, and it WILL be my next mod.
Sorry to highjack, but does anyone have the picture of the "Hurst Equipped" emblem installed on the dash? I think I saw Davids2Toys, but I can't find it now. Also, does the emblem come with the shifter? Where are you guys getting them the cheapest. I found it for $219.00
Sorry to highjack, but does anyone have the picture of the "Hurst Equipped" emblem installed on the dash? I think I saw Davids2Toys, but I can't find it now. Also, does the emblem come with the shifter? Where are you guys getting them the cheapest. I found it for $219.00
8/28/05, 11:04 AM
#43
Team Mustang Source
Hi Nick,
You can get the shifter from LM Performance for $215 shipped and here is a link for the Hurst equiped emblems.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/Pro...617&prmenbr=361
You can get the shifter from LM Performance for $215 shipped and here is a link for the Hurst equiped emblems.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/Pro...617&prmenbr=361
8/29/05, 12:35 PM
#48
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For the guy that started the thread (and everyone else), I heard that to go into reverse you have to push the stick left of neutral, then right and back. Wondered if everyone knew this, it is supposedly in the owner's manual.
My car isn't here yet, so I can't verify.
My car isn't here yet, so I can't verify.
8/30/05, 09:26 AM
#50
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Originally posted by Shea@August 29, 2005, 12:38 PM
For the guy that started the thread (and everyone else), I heard that to go into reverse you have to push the stick left of neutral, then right and back. Wondered if everyone knew this, it is supposedly in the owner's manual.
For the guy that started the thread (and everyone else), I heard that to go into reverse you have to push the stick left of neutral, then right and back. Wondered if everyone knew this, it is supposedly in the owner's manual.
Oh.....and after two days of driving around after my re-work above, my conclusion now is: the overall change (half-baked reverse install vs. by the book) is not worth it, it's better to just install the thing like the instructions say. It felt much better sitting in the garage, dry-shifting it, but once on the road and moving, it's the same. Go figger......
I do believe tho, that the notchiness is not from the stick but from the trans, and I have also noticed that shifting from higher revs, it's much smoother. Not surprising if it's just a matter of waiting for the synchro's to do their job, and a matching RPM for the next gear is reached quicker. So, this is a GREAT stick for the strip and for spirited driving. Cruising and more mellow everyday driving take a little different touch. I'm putting the setup back to the way it was (per Hurst) next weekend, then am done with it.
Would be interesting to see how the B&M stacks up. If they use a less aggressive pivot point it could be smoother but with more travel, or maybe if they use a more forgiving bushing material. I keep wondering what the Hurst unit would be like with the stock rubber bushings instead of the poly ones.....obviously I need to find something else to occupy my mind and just start driving around enjoying it.....
8/30/05, 03:31 PM
#51
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So how is this shifter going to be for us that do not have a tune. I KNOW YOU DON"T NEED A TUNE FOR THIS OBVIOUSLY. But with the throttle lag, Do you still have to wait forever for the synchros to match up?
9/2/05, 10:26 AM
#52
[quote=Vegasjay,August 27, 2005, 6:20 PM]
Talked to Kevin yesterday, it does not call out any bushings at all, just the bolt, he is going to order one and see if it comes with bushings!
I am going to pick up the nuts today to double nut the attach point, I may grab a big washer and install it on the front where I only have 1 long metal sleeve...hopefully this will serve as a shoulder for the poly bushing so it wont deform. :bang:
Originally Posted by davids2toys,August 27, 2005, 1:14 AM
I only had 1 metal bushing, it had a shoulder on 1 side and did NOT go the full length of the bushing, almost though, was short about an 1/8th of an inch! I did call Hurst about this after I did the install and they said it did not matter, the guy really did not have a clue and he was a tech!!! So as of right now I am running with 1 metal bushing and 2 plastic bushings.
Justin, could it be you got an early car and I got a June car, maybe they changed the type and quantity callout if the bushing used. So how far does each of your metal sleeves reach into the bushing?
Yes, my car was one of the first (#744). My two metal bushing's contact eachother in the middle making the metal bushing solid going all the way through the poly bushing. They also have an 1/8" solid lip on the ouside of both side's of the poly bushing... In other word's the two metal bushing's are identical and insert in the opposite side's of the poly, meeting in the middle to form a solid bushing. I'm not a Hurst "Tech" but I can't see how that bushing not going all the way through couldn't have adverse affect's on shifter feel. When you tighten that 10mm bolt into the tranny without a full length metal bushing in there, it would allow the poly bushing to deform and deflect. I would be curious to see what the Ford part's book calls for on the bushing's, if there was a redesign etc. I would ask KC the part's guy on here to check it out. I just want your Hurst to feel as good as it can Dave.
I think your bushing may be the culprit...
Justin, could it be you got an early car and I got a June car, maybe they changed the type and quantity callout if the bushing used. So how far does each of your metal sleeves reach into the bushing?
Yes, my car was one of the first (#744). My two metal bushing's contact eachother in the middle making the metal bushing solid going all the way through the poly bushing. They also have an 1/8" solid lip on the ouside of both side's of the poly bushing... In other word's the two metal bushing's are identical and insert in the opposite side's of the poly, meeting in the middle to form a solid bushing. I'm not a Hurst "Tech" but I can't see how that bushing not going all the way through couldn't have adverse affect's on shifter feel. When you tighten that 10mm bolt into the tranny without a full length metal bushing in there, it would allow the poly bushing to deform and deflect. I would be curious to see what the Ford part's book calls for on the bushing's, if there was a redesign etc. I would ask KC the part's guy on here to check it out. I just want your Hurst to feel as good as it can Dave.
I think your bushing may be the culprit...I am going to pick up the nuts today to double nut the attach point, I may grab a big washer and install it on the front where I only have 1 long metal sleeve...hopefully this will serve as a shoulder for the poly bushing so it wont deform. :bang:
9/6/05, 04:42 PM
#54
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Ford has A Cataloging Issue on the Bolt Kit. Mispackaged! or Miscataloged. Still working on it! There appears to be a Bushing on the Bolt in the 2006 Catalog. Can anybody get me a pic of both shifter arms and bolts so I can Have some ammo to get Ford Straightend out!
kc
kc
9/6/05, 09:03 PM
#56
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Well, I just looked at my photos again and I have tosay - I'M STUPID!
Turns out I DIDNT have two halve-sleevs in the front bushing, but instead, one sleeve that went the whole distance, with just one shoulder. The below picture proves it. You can clearly see there is no shoulder on this side. And I now recall tapping the thing out all the way from one side only, with a socket slightly smaller!
I've no idea why I thought there were two....and moreover I'm not sure it matters anyways.
Turns out I DIDNT have two halve-sleevs in the front bushing, but instead, one sleeve that went the whole distance, with just one shoulder. The below picture proves it. You can clearly see there is no shoulder on this side. And I now recall tapping the thing out all the way from one side only, with a socket slightly smaller!
I've no idea why I thought there were two....and moreover I'm not sure it matters anyways.
9/6/05, 09:15 PM
#57
Originally posted by Stoopy@September 6, 2005, 9:06 PM
Well, I just looked at my photos again and I have tosay - I'M STUPID!
Turns out I DIDNT have two halve-sleevs in the front bushing, but instead, one sleeve that went the whole distance, with just one shoulder. The below picture proves it. You can clearly see there is no shoulder on this side. And I now recall tapping the thing out all the way from one side only, with a socket slightly smaller!
I've no idea why I thought there were two....and moreover I'm not sure it matters anyways.
Well, I just looked at my photos again and I have tosay - I'M STUPID!
Turns out I DIDNT have two halve-sleevs in the front bushing, but instead, one sleeve that went the whole distance, with just one shoulder. The below picture proves it. You can clearly see there is no shoulder on this side. And I now recall tapping the thing out all the way from one side only, with a socket slightly smaller!
I've no idea why I thought there were two....and moreover I'm not sure it matters anyways.
9/6/05, 09:32 PM
#59
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Originally posted by davids2toys@September 6, 2005, 9:20 PM
So Stoopy, is this why they call you STOOPY...lol
So Stoopy, is this why they call you STOOPY...lol
9/8/05, 07:39 PM
#60
Originally posted by Stoopy@September 6, 2005, 9:35 PM
Heck, thats even why I call myself Stoopy, are ya kiddin' me??!! LMAO!!!
Heck, thats even why I call myself Stoopy, are ya kiddin' me??!! LMAO!!!